Intercooler pump fuse keeps blowing.
I replaced the pump back in April with the Johnson pump and the car has been running great. But for the past month now the fuse keeps blowing out. I checked the wire connections and they seem to be ok. The only thing I can think of that might be the problem is if motor is getting wet or moisture in it. Has anyone had the same problem or any idea what the problem might be?
Last edited by robby363; Dec 11, 2008 at 09:57 AM.
I would look at the socket, if the pins are loose the terminals will heat up and even normal current levels will melt the fuse material.
Look at the fuse and see if the fuse is melted of smokey blown. Smokey looking plastic is a high current overload and indicative of a shorted connection or a commutator that is having problems in the pump motor.
In the short term, you could replace a higher amperage fuse, upping it no more than about 5 amps once to see if that is sufficient or if the problem is more than that.
If you wanna unplug your pump and install a fuse and drive around for a while, youll know it there is a short. With the pump unplugged the fuse should NEVER blow/melt, just as a hint.
BTW my Johnson pump is still ok on the stock fuse..........ENJOY
W
DY
Look at the fuse and see if the fuse is melted of smokey blown. Smokey looking plastic is a high current overload and indicative of a shorted connection or a commutator that is having problems in the pump motor.
In the short term, you could replace a higher amperage fuse, upping it no more than about 5 amps once to see if that is sufficient or if the problem is more than that.
If you wanna unplug your pump and install a fuse and drive around for a while, youll know it there is a short. With the pump unplugged the fuse should NEVER blow/melt, just as a hint.
BTW my Johnson pump is still ok on the stock fuse..........ENJOY
W
Originally Posted by waldig
I would look at the socket, if the pins are loose the terminals will heat up and even normal current levels will melt the fuse material.
Look at the fuse and see if the fuse is melted of smokey blown. Smokey looking plastic is a high current overload and indicative of a shorted connection or a commutator that is having problems in the pump motor.
In the short term, you could replace a higher amperage fuse, upping it no more than about 5 amps once to see if that is sufficient or if the problem is more than that.
If you wanna unplug your pump and install a fuse and drive around for a while, youll know it there is a short. With the pump unplugged the fuse should NEVER blow/melt, just as a hint.
BTW my Johnson pump is still ok on the stock fuse..........ENJOY
W
DY
Look at the fuse and see if the fuse is melted of smokey blown. Smokey looking plastic is a high current overload and indicative of a shorted connection or a commutator that is having problems in the pump motor.
In the short term, you could replace a higher amperage fuse, upping it no more than about 5 amps once to see if that is sufficient or if the problem is more than that.
If you wanna unplug your pump and install a fuse and drive around for a while, youll know it there is a short. With the pump unplugged the fuse should NEVER blow/melt, just as a hint.
BTW my Johnson pump is still ok on the stock fuse..........ENJOY
W
Last edited by robby363; Dec 11, 2008 at 10:47 AM.
Water has no effect, especially for 12 volts. - - - High tension lines get rained on daily - - -
Water and 12 volts do cause corrosion to eat and errode the connectors of wiring and that usually causes them to stop operation, drawing less current, not more...........
Woody Enjoy
Water and 12 volts do cause corrosion to eat and errode the connectors of wiring and that usually causes them to stop operation, drawing less current, not more...........
Woody Enjoy
You did solder your connections didn't you?
Did you tie down the wires so they don't rub on anything? Could be a short to ground if the wire has rubbed through the insulation somewhere.
Did you tie down the wires so they don't rub on anything? Could be a short to ground if the wire has rubbed through the insulation somewhere.
Originally Posted by tighed1
You did solder your connections didn't you?
Did you tie down the wires so they don't rub on anything? Could be a short to ground if the wire has rubbed through the insulation somewhere.
Did you tie down the wires so they don't rub on anything? Could be a short to ground if the wire has rubbed through the insulation somewhere.
Robby, you should solder them and use shrink tubing to cover. When I did mine two weeks ago, I soldered them, covered with silicon and then shrink tubing over that to keep any moisture out.
MikeR
MikeR
Gotta disagree with that one. Current is voltage divided by resistance , thus lower voltage is lower current.
Cars dont have negative resistance loads, so when the voltage is diminished the load current falls, period. Inductive (A/C)motors would exibit negative current characteristics when they enter the stall region of their operational curves. Luckly we have no inductive motors, only brushed DC or Brushless stepper motors.
Enjoy Woody
I = E (v) / R and Power P = E(squared) / R [R = resistance]
Cars dont have negative resistance loads, so when the voltage is diminished the load current falls, period. Inductive (A/C)motors would exibit negative current characteristics when they enter the stall region of their operational curves. Luckly we have no inductive motors, only brushed DC or Brushless stepper motors.
Enjoy Woody
I = E (v) / R and Power P = E(squared) / R [R = resistance]
Last edited by waldig; Dec 12, 2008 at 11:40 AM.
It would be nice if you could borrow an inductive DC Amp meter and measure exactly what the pump is drawing. Some and most Multimeters will measure up to 20 amps DC.
To eliminate any other wiring issues, connect it directly to the battery while testing with an amp meter.
James
To eliminate any other wiring issues, connect it directly to the battery while testing with an amp meter.
James
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