Are all of these symptoms of the IC water pump?
Symptoms:
--Sometimes revs drop if I accelerate normally, especially when its not fully warmed up, so I have to manually shift down to accelerate. My other option is to accelerate very gently. Its as if the car is afraid to accelerate so I have to sneak up on it. Restarting will cure this problem for a while.
--Sometimes the car jerks when going uphill with cruise on.
--Check engine light came on once, went away.
--Under acceleration it sometimes feels like there is no power, other times like there's a full 350hp.
--Today I backed out of a parking space and it felt like there was no power at all. Problem sort of resolved itself after a while.
--Sometimes revs drop if I accelerate normally, especially when its not fully warmed up, so I have to manually shift down to accelerate. My other option is to accelerate very gently. Its as if the car is afraid to accelerate so I have to sneak up on it. Restarting will cure this problem for a while.
--Sometimes the car jerks when going uphill with cruise on.
--Check engine light came on once, went away.
--Under acceleration it sometimes feels like there is no power, other times like there's a full 350hp.
--Today I backed out of a parking space and it felt like there was no power at all. Problem sort of resolved itself after a while.
Well howdy there neighbor! Whereabouts ya' located? Wonder if the outside air temps have got anything to do with some of your problems?
Last edited by Playdrv4me; Dec 23, 2008 at 11:42 AM.
--Under acceleration it sometimes feels like there is no power, other times like there's a full 350hp
That one sounds very I/C pump related. This is because your heat exchanger still cools water even if the pump isn't working, so when you're moving and air is going through the heat exchanger then it can usually cool the water and therefore the supercharger enough to lower the intake air temps back down enough to turn the supercharger clutch back on, temporarily.
That one sounds very I/C pump related. This is because your heat exchanger still cools water even if the pump isn't working, so when you're moving and air is going through the heat exchanger then it can usually cool the water and therefore the supercharger enough to lower the intake air temps back down enough to turn the supercharger clutch back on, temporarily.
Originally Posted by ohnoesaz
--Under acceleration it sometimes feels like there is no power, other times like there's a full 350hp
That one sounds very I/C pump related. This is because your heat exchanger still cools water even if the pump isn't working, so when you're moving and air is going through the heat exchanger then it can usually cool the water and therefore the supercharger enough to lower the intake air temps back down enough to turn the supercharger clutch back on, temporarily.
That one sounds very I/C pump related. This is because your heat exchanger still cools water even if the pump isn't working, so when you're moving and air is going through the heat exchanger then it can usually cool the water and therefore the supercharger enough to lower the intake air temps back down enough to turn the supercharger clutch back on, temporarily.
that is classic IC pump, or SC temp sensor, one or the other....sensor says too hot, shuts down SC...or pump isn't pumping, sensor says too hot, shut down SC....take her to the dealership....tell them to fix it...check pump and/or sensor....
Dont go to the dealership. All they will do is scratch their heads. Find the solution here it will be less than a couple hundred bucks if it is the IC and I bet you it is.
Sounds ignition related to me. You need to run that check engine light and see what codes come up; the intercooler pump does not cause a CEL. Plus, you mentioned restarting the car fixes the problem, which also sounds ignition related. The intercooler pump will never cause the revs to "drop". It will cause a power loss that makes the engine almost impossible to hit high revs, but the revs will not drop during mid-acceleration. Finally, you mentioned this happens before the car warms up. The intercooler pump doesn't usually cause issues until the engine supercharges absorbs and creates some heat.
The other likelyhood is the temp sensor that someone mentioned already. If this is reporting an inaccurate temp, the engine could be turning off the S/C, but you revs still shouldn't "drop" the way you mentioned.
Good Luck!
The other likelyhood is the temp sensor that someone mentioned already. If this is reporting an inaccurate temp, the engine could be turning off the S/C, but you revs still shouldn't "drop" the way you mentioned.
Good Luck!
Originally Posted by Jesda
Symptoms:
--Sometimes revs drop if I accelerate normally, especially when its not fully warmed up, so I have to manually shift down to accelerate. My other option is to accelerate very gently. Its as if the car is afraid to accelerate so I have to sneak up on it. Restarting will cure this problem for a while.
--Sometimes the car jerks when going uphill with cruise on.
--Check engine light came on once, went away.
--Under acceleration it sometimes feels like there is no power, other times like there's a full 350hp.
--Today I backed out of a parking space and it felt like there was no power at all. Problem sort of resolved itself after a while.
--Sometimes revs drop if I accelerate normally, especially when its not fully warmed up, so I have to manually shift down to accelerate. My other option is to accelerate very gently. Its as if the car is afraid to accelerate so I have to sneak up on it. Restarting will cure this problem for a while.
--Sometimes the car jerks when going uphill with cruise on.
--Check engine light came on once, went away.
--Under acceleration it sometimes feels like there is no power, other times like there's a full 350hp.
--Today I backed out of a parking space and it felt like there was no power at all. Problem sort of resolved itself after a while.
Yikes! Well, I guess I need to choose a dealer or local Euro shop to take care of it. The aftermarket warranty fortunately includes rental. Its annoying because I just had a car totaled after an accident and spent nearly 6 months driving various run of the mill rental cars (well, one was a Saturn Aura, pretty nice).
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,271
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From: Great Falls, Montana ( Big Sky Country)
While I have to go along with those saying it does sound like the pump it also seems to have issues that are not.
Have you received any codes?
If your check engine light has come on there must be a trail that the dealer could tell you of at a minimul cost.
I must also state that the Bosch pump failure is inevitable and for the cost of the Johnson replacement pump it maybe should be swapped just as a procautionary measure. When ever you can increase the performance of a part and save the trouble of a unexpected brakedown which is the case for this pump, for a couple hours work and $150. it's worth doing.
Wish you were closer so I could give you hand.
Good luck,
Mike
Have you received any codes?
If your check engine light has come on there must be a trail that the dealer could tell you of at a minimul cost.
I must also state that the Bosch pump failure is inevitable and for the cost of the Johnson replacement pump it maybe should be swapped just as a procautionary measure. When ever you can increase the performance of a part and save the trouble of a unexpected brakedown which is the case for this pump, for a couple hours work and $150. it's worth doing.
Wish you were closer so I could give you hand.
Good luck,
Mike
mine was the sensor, the revs dropped, S/C wouldn't engage all the time. Didn't seem to matter. I have a johnson pump setting on the bench, but haven't needed yet. But I as well thought, electrical, anything but the S/C...but that was what it turned out to be. Taking it to a dealer is your only option unless you have the knowledge and tools to work on it. If it threw a code, then a local parts store can read it. I bet one or the other. Mine was the temp sensor....they replaced the pump first...so I have a new bosch, but johnson is in reserve...good luck..
I purchased a SRT6 in December 08 with 19,000 miles on the odometer. I plan to take a few roadtrips of about 400 or 500 miles in sometimes relativley remote areas. Do all IC pumps fail at roughly the same mileage? Should I just replace it now or is there a good possibilty that the pump will last the life of the car? I know it would not leave me stranded, just hate to have to limp back home.
The OEM Bosch pump will die in 2 years, based on what I've read here. The limp-home mode isn't that bad. You can drive safely, its just slower.
I resolved my previously mentioned launch acceleration issue by resetting the computer:
Turn key to on
Push throttle pedal down all the way for 5 secs
With pedal still down, turn key to off but leave key in ignition
Release pedal
Wait 2 minutes
Start the car and drive.
I'm under warranty so I'll get another OEM pump, but once the coverage expires I'll be ordering a Johnson unit.
I resolved my previously mentioned launch acceleration issue by resetting the computer:
Turn key to on
Push throttle pedal down all the way for 5 secs
With pedal still down, turn key to off but leave key in ignition
Release pedal
Wait 2 minutes
Start the car and drive.
I'm under warranty so I'll get another OEM pump, but once the coverage expires I'll be ordering a Johnson unit.
Originally Posted by Jesda
The OEM Bosch pump will die in 2 years, based on what I've read here. The limp-home mode isn't that bad. You can drive safely, its just slower.
I resolved my previously mentioned launch acceleration issue by resetting the computer:
Turn key to on
Push throttle pedal down all the way for 5 secs
With pedal still down, turn key to off but leave key in ignition
Release pedal
Wait 2 minutes
Start the car and drive.
I'm under warranty so I'll get another OEM pump, but once the coverage expires I'll be ordering a Johnson unit.
I resolved my previously mentioned launch acceleration issue by resetting the computer:
Turn key to on
Push throttle pedal down all the way for 5 secs
With pedal still down, turn key to off but leave key in ignition
Release pedal
Wait 2 minutes
Start the car and drive.
I'm under warranty so I'll get another OEM pump, but once the coverage expires I'll be ordering a Johnson unit.
i had something like this, but it turned out to be my sprint-booster failed.
the code that came up was an 'throttle-pedal' failure, so the benz dealership wanted to order me a new pedal. i told them to just disconnect the sprint booster and clean up the pedal and sensor already on there.
lo-and-behold, worked like a charm. if you get a code for the throttle-pedal, just take it apart and clean it up.
make sure you get the ECU scanned. don't waste so much time at the dealer!
the code that came up was an 'throttle-pedal' failure, so the benz dealership wanted to order me a new pedal. i told them to just disconnect the sprint booster and clean up the pedal and sensor already on there.
lo-and-behold, worked like a charm. if you get a code for the throttle-pedal, just take it apart and clean it up.
make sure you get the ECU scanned. don't waste so much time at the dealer!
Originally Posted by paul1612
I purchased a SRT6 in December 08 with 19,000 miles on the odometer. I plan to take a few roadtrips of about 400 or 500 miles in sometimes relativley remote areas. Do all IC pumps fail at roughly the same mileage? Should I just replace it now or is there a good possibilty that the pump will last the life of the car? I know it would not leave me stranded, just hate to have to limp back home.
Originally Posted by cross><hair
Is that really the process for resetting the computer?! Bizzare- where did you hear/read that?!
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...throttle+reset
The CEL is suspicous. I would run the car to your local Autozone and have them pull the code. Sounds to me like too many sysmptons to be just the IC pump.


