When I say 11.50's, I don't mean one run in 40 deg weather w/ a DA of -1500ft. lol. What will it take (In your opinion) to get this car to run 11.50's in average weather (75-80 deg 45% hum)? I have been reading some recent threads regarding the stacked pulleys and I really thought this was gonna produce some extra big gains, but that doesn't really seem to be the case? So i'm wondering where we go from here and how we solve this. Should we focus on tranny upgrades (ie. converter, valve body, gearing)? Rear upgrades (lower gearing)? Porting and polishing (motor, SC)? Headers? Cooling mods? ECU tweaks? Combination of all the above? Etc......115-118mph is plenty enough to run mid 11's! I know a lot of you are real close to 11's now and few of us are already into the 11's, but I wan't to be able to run 11's in poor weather conditions and I just want to know your opinions on how we get there.


With that said......Right now, I think I could run into the 11's all day (in average weather) with three upgrades.....Converter, Gearing, Slicks. The only downside is, when do you stop and say "Hey, this is my daily driver and I want to keep it reliable and streetable"? Hmmmmm

 

One piece aluminum driveshaft might help? Some skinny/lighter tires/wheels up front? Test pipes for the exhaust(eliminate the cats)? Headers might add a few more HP. Definetly a stall and gears would help. If we could pull some 1.5-1.6 60ft it would happen.
N20 is the cheapest easiest way, without the question of running lean on the stock injectors, to go deep into the 11's regardless of DA. Atmosphere in a bottle.

 

Iam not ready to give up on stacked pulleys, as I have my code 3 on the bench for the 178. Right now the 20psig boost is blowing out my upper end due to lack of fuel but that should be corrected soon. At that point I have a plan to use the pair of pulleys to gain even more bottom end, see my present torque curve, cause thats the deal TORQUE.

Code three has the advantage of more RPM on the blower that is good, without buzzing the accessories or idlers so much. Currently even with the LSD I can not get on it hard / fast or I blow off the tires in first and second to a bit with 275 Hoosiers. My times are traction limited but I plan to re distribute some weight to see if I can improve that enough to warrent the changes required to do that.

Be Happy, Woody

See Word Document of chart of second gear at the top rev level for more. Please remenber that this is with the 178 pulley and code 3 and Boost pressure is measured at the Manifold, NOT wye pipe.

 

The usual route is go turbo or for cars already turbo'd , go with a bigger turbo. I think considering we are still using the factory supercharger and nobody has done anythin to the gearing,transmission, upgraded fuel delivery, or done any major engine work we are doing pretty good. Unfortanetley I feel with the mods currently available high 11's are as good as its going to get without nitrous. I think we will be limited by the factory supercharger and intake plumbing either way .

 

patience, we're almost there
119mph without lifting a valve cover so far

 

My guess would be along with the usual mods (that it takes to run 12 flat) and the right tires and LSD, all you really need is the right gear ratio.
3.91's. 4.10's, or maybe even 4.56's (with a tall enough tire).
It's just too bad SOMEBODY (like Woody) couldn't come up with a 9" to solve all the problems.
Or maybe this is the easiest way to go:

http://www.south40streetrods.com/Rod...ickchange.html

 

That must be the wrong chart because your only at 1500 rpm. Also with a little burnout at the track you will have no problem hooking up those hoosiers.

 

Ill get another chart, the spikes on the ingnition are due to missing -too lean and the readings were not coming thru, I did not proof this chart but Ill get a better one. YOu see the boost and the a/f which is what I was looking to point out. Woody

 

The spikes are normal and no it's not due to missing to lean, it's in the ignition system that runs the rpms. There is an adapter you can buy if you don't want those to show up in the graph, IMO it's not worth it. Most can see the pattern in the graph. The part of the log you want to focus on is the full run at wide open throttle from launch to just past 4th gear. You'll need at least 1/2 mile to make this run. All the info you need is on that run. The before and after don't mean anything.

 

Heres a better chart to review and see the boost versis the rpm and A/F. Woody

 

here is one that I'm talking about with shift points on a low 12 second pass. Each point shows the data for the max on each shift. The numbers to the right don't matter it's each shift point. Usually TPS is at 99 or 100 at WOT. To add the data lines just move your mouse over the exact area you want to point out and then hit the right click on the mouse, and bam it saves it for you right there.
Enjoy,
Cruzinquick

 

By looking at your mod list, add a methanol kit with the 50/50 mixture and slicks...That should do it!

 

Full Exhaust and slicks? How restrictive is the stock exhaust on the SRT? I know with the STi and MS3 the single biggest performance mod (other than tuning) is to replace the down-pipe (restrictive cats). It freed up close to 40hp in the STi and about 35-40hp in the Mazda.

 

Needswings, What say you re. the down pipe(s) and HP gains?????????? is this true?
Woody, Be Happy

 

The AMG cats are very good. Many have tried to replace them with high flow cats only to find little or no gain... and I'm one of them

I believe there is a lot to be desired in the gearing. A ratio of 3.07:1 is not very good for the track (unless you are making huge power). Another area that can be improved is transmission programming; I feel that the 3-4 gear change comes too late. If we could hit 4th a few hundred RPM sooner, we could take more advantage of the great mid-range torque these engines produce, rather than riding out the flat spot at the top of 3rd gear near the end of the track.

 

As you get faster you'll notice that 3rd comes and goes too fast. If 1st and 2nd were a little longer, and 3rd could pull all the way throught the finish line. That would improve times right there. The 3-4 shouldn't come in at all until after the finish. When I was running mid 12's the 3-4 came almost at the finish line, but low 12's its alot sooner probably at the 1100' mark.

 

i absolutely believe in the cutouts we are running, car car takes a few passes to calibrate for them being uncorked tho. we saw an immediate 9hp on the dyno with them last year but didnt continue on with 4-5 more pulls like we should have to let then shine. that will be commign shortly, we made good progress today on the srt6 exh work we are doing and should have a race setup finished this week. you guys want to see mean? ill show it to ya!

 

Could you effectively do that by using the "manual" mode on the stick? However I noticed "DistantPulse" kept it in regular full auto mode when doing runs at the track. Not trying to hijack this thread but is there any benefit to "manually" shifting the gears on the SRT?

 

In manual mode it will shift for you on the SRT6. The E55 will not shift like ours, it has to be left in D.

 

We need to start working out ideas to get to that mid 11 mark. I am getting bored. I am working on a couple of things for mine to at least get it into consistant 11's.