ok, so all these various probs I've been been having(low power on dyno, low track times) have been after at least 45 mins of highway driving, in 27 degree C days.
is it possible that the addition of the code 3 pulley has been causing significant heatsoak?
seems like that shouldn't be enough....

 

80 degrees F is not hot and you should not have a problem specifically. I have autocrossed at that temp many times and hot had a problem with 45 - 60 seconds of WOT operation and low forward speeds.

Your tune may be set to limit your power, the code 3 is a significant power adder and you should feel it for sure.

Woody

 

Well, with the CAI and pulley, I am running SLOWER than stock at the track and on the dyno. 13.5,266 whp, so SOMETHING is up.
I haven't had a tune, wouldn't be comfortable until I sort out the mechanicals.
Seems heat is all it COULD be! mayb due to the alleged improvement in the the new batch of pullies causing more power than expected? I have a Carchip unit and just showed 165-70 kpa IMP....that's more than 24.5 psi.....?
Also:
I have only ever thrashed it warm, but to get that result, I pulled out of the drive and gunned it. There was FAR more spin than when I normally do it....once again, smells like heat?

 

24.5psi minus 14.7psi=9.8psi. you have a boost leak somewhere.

 

forgive my ignorance, but why minus 14.7?

 

or major belt slip?

 

once again,
why the 14.7 subtracted?
I would see belt slip on a dyno wouldn't I?
Doesn't look like it....

 

also, in the event that it is a leak, how do I check?

 

you have to subtract 14.7 for atmosphere

 

with my code3 in 2nd gear i see 210kpa=30.45792492334394psi-14.7psi=15.7579psi and the altitude where I live is around 3000ft.

on the track (dragstrip) I see 16.5psi at 1600ft altitude.

 

If you feel you are suffering heat soak and low performance in realitivly nice weather 80-85*, I would start checking for catalytic problems your secondery cats or muffler may be clogged, so your not flowing the exhaust gasses as well as you should.

 

that figure is from a couple of runs from 0-60, letting the gears shift themselves. is that not going to give me an accurate figure?

 

to really get a good reading you need ot get the barometric pressure form your local airport.... then you need to convert that to psi... here in chicago its closer to 14.5 not 14.7 granted no ones really complaining about .2psi but if some ones boosting 15.8 with your method... they might get a bigger smile knowing its actually 16 lol

 

or go to weather.gov and you can see it for your area there live.

how do you calculate it using a barometer reading?

 

if you go to noaa they have calculators... it should read some thing like 30.XX or around there in inches of mercury... different than psi... its like when the car is vacume thats also in inches of mercury.

so like 30.xx in of mercury = 14.X psi.. thus using that number for your calulations...

this is how we calibrate some of our instuments at work.

 

If that really is your max boost then your leaking somewhere have your intake manifolds ever been removed or any spacers added? also you may have serous belt slip going on open your hood and tell me if you see any black dust/black shaving anywhere, also look inbetween the radiator and your crank pulley tell me if the belt is on every rib on the crank pulley, when i nstalled my pulley i had the belt one rib over on the pulley and that caused a little slip.

 

The belt is on the grooves, and no dust.
Once again again, wouldn't slip show up on the dyno I posted? Woody? Anyone?
how do I check for boost leakkkkkkkk?

 

did you dyno with traction control off?

did you turn traction controll off at the track?

when you checked your boost level, did you run the car up to redline or only to 60mph?

those 3 things would make you run low on the dyno, run bad times at the track and show low boost if you did not hit redline.

next try to get soapy water and put it around your IM's with the motor running to see if it bubbles up (air blowing through it) check your IM clamps to make sure they are tight, etc

 

Belt slippage, most people dont understand the issue here. If your belt slips its toast in a VERY short time and will melt at the 50 hp that it is asked to carry. Your not going to slip and loose boost for long. With the code 3 and the 178 my belt could not carry the load and went into squeel immediatley which I heard at full power WOT easily.

Leaks?? That is variable, where and how much?? Mate you should have a boost gauge in or on the car. Even as a quicky, get one and hang it under the wiperblade to get a quick see on what is going on. I have a picture of my fuel gauge somewhere that I did that to. Never bring fuel lines inside the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You should see 14 pounds with stock pulley near sea level. Code 3 Id suggest 17 PSIG is more normal.

SInce your interested, Id suggest that the get up to speed with the all in one Zeitronix data logger and display system. I wish I got it first and saved my time doing the gauges and all the connectors and wiring efforts. Several people offer them and if you want to contact ROB at Needswings he can give you first hand data, recommendations. If you pay for it, heck he'll even sell you one I bet.

You have need to solve several possibilities all at once. To do this you need to record your boost, engine temp, inlet air temp, and throttle settings. If your car wants it will retard the throttle, your foot has NO correlation to the throttle position, it closes during shifts and power adverse operation like high temps. THat suprised me but it is fly by wire operation you know. A good data logger will make your quest more acceptable and even fun / informative.

Keep us informed, I love to see a photo of the water down there going down the drain the other way, Coriolis force you say, maybe that is not the cause.......Enjoy, WOody

 

I'm using a carchip data logger.
just went out, drove at highway speed for an hour, then floored it a few times.
I also did a couple of 0-65ish runs.
Max boost-25.2 psi
max Intake Air Temp 143 F (is that normal?)

Is it possible I'm not giving the car time to reach full boost? Surely it would before 60MPH?