CP30 Pump = Leaking IC
This seems to be a given, but does anyone know if this just happens with the stock HE, or does it also happen with the larget LET HE, and/or the Needswings Supercooler?
I'm thinking of switching back to the stock water pump.
Also, how do you know if your IC is leaking???????
Thanks
I'm thinking of switching back to the stock water pump.
Also, how do you know if your IC is leaking???????
Thanks
Can you better describe what is happening? From a visual and performance stand point. I think this would help everyone better diagnose the problem and better propose a solution. The more details the better.
Hey Indyjoe, and anyone else referring to the intercooler system on our cars There are 2 main components, the intercooler (under the supercharger)

and the heat exchanger (small radiator mounted in front of car).

Your title says IC (Intercooler) but yet you refer to the HE (Heat exchanger) in your post. Which part is it that you are having problems with?

and the heat exchanger (small radiator mounted in front of car).
Your title says IC (Intercooler) but yet you refer to the HE (Heat exchanger) in your post. Which part is it that you are having problems with?
Originally Posted by msheredy
Hey Indyjoe, and anyone else referring to the intercooler system on our cars There are 2 main components, the intercooler (under the supercharger)

and the heat exchanger (small radiator mounted in front of car).

Your title says IC (Intercooler) but yet you refer to the HE (Heat exchanger) in your post. Which part is it that you are having problems with?

and the heat exchanger (small radiator mounted in front of car).
Your title says IC (Intercooler) but yet you refer to the HE (Heat exchanger) in your post. Which part is it that you are having problems with?
My question is, does this happen only with the stock Heat Exchanger (the picture on the very bottom) because the stock HE can't handle the increased flow of the Johnson pump, so it puts pressure on the Intercooler? It seems this has happened with some of the people using the Johnson pump and the LET Heat Exchanger (the top HE pictured in the 2nd picture) as well. I wonder if this might be solved using the Needswings Supercooler?
I'm thinking of taking off the Johnson pump, and going back to stock because I don't want to replace the Intercooler, which I think is a $1000 part.
I was also wanting to know how you can tell if your Intercooler (the top picture) is leaking and needs replaced?
I hope this makes sense.
Originally Posted by ACRucrazy
I know the C32 guys report leaking ICs often.
I just didn't know if a different HE made a difference in pressure back to the IC, or how you can tell if your IC is leaking (is it obvious)?
Originally Posted by indyjoe
I apologize if I'm not being clear. It seems that several people that have upgraded to the Johnson water pump have experienced a leak in their Intercooler (the top picture). The reason is that the Johnson pump puts too much pressure on the Intercooler, which causes it to leak.
My question is, does this happen only with the stock Heat Exchanger (the picture on the very bottom) because the stock HE can't handle the increased flow of the Johnson pump, so it puts pressure on the Intercooler? It seems this has happened with some of the people using the Johnson pump and the LET Heat Exchanger (the top HE pictured in the 2nd picture) as well. I wonder if this might be solved using the Needswings Supercooler?
I'm thinking of taking off the Johnson pump, and going back to stock because I don't want to replace the Intercooler, which I think is a $1000 part.
I was also wanting to know how you can tell if your Intercooler (the top picture) is leaking and needs replaced?
I hope this makes sense.
My question is, does this happen only with the stock Heat Exchanger (the picture on the very bottom) because the stock HE can't handle the increased flow of the Johnson pump, so it puts pressure on the Intercooler? It seems this has happened with some of the people using the Johnson pump and the LET Heat Exchanger (the top HE pictured in the 2nd picture) as well. I wonder if this might be solved using the Needswings Supercooler?
I'm thinking of taking off the Johnson pump, and going back to stock because I don't want to replace the Intercooler, which I think is a $1000 part.
I was also wanting to know how you can tell if your Intercooler (the top picture) is leaking and needs replaced?
I hope this makes sense.
I would think that if your intercooler was leaking - the signs would be obvious has the engine would begin to ingest coolant.
On the other hand - if the leak is real small - it could work as an water/meth injector and drop your IAT's..
All kidding aside, when I had my unit apart it looked pretty stout.
One key is to keep the IC coolant clean, use distilled water and a minimum 1/4 ratio of MB antifreeze. It has special softeners to prevent scoring on the internal parts of the coolant systems.
Last edited by BrianBrave; May 14, 2009 at 01:11 PM.
Interesting question. I stayed with a bosch just because I didn't see any benefits from the johnson that I could use. I don't have any cooling upgrades. The increased flow could be interpreted as increased pressure, but maybe the intuitive members will chime in with some numbers. Woody?
No one has proved that the CM30 causes the IC to leak. There were Stock- IC of the first Generation (MB has changed the Part over the years) that have also leaked with the stock Bosch Pump. I don't think it is because of the Pump. Some People also have stronger Pumps than the CM30 and I will upgrade mine too.
In my opinion Vibrations and hard bumps can also make the IC leak in the longrun...The second generation of the Garrett IC seems to be more reliable.
When your intercooler is leaking you will notice loss of coolant in the Engine-Water reservoir. When it is leaking badly, the intake manifolds are dirty and full of green residues from the coolant in the inside. You can see this when you take the intake manifolds off.
In my opinion Vibrations and hard bumps can also make the IC leak in the longrun...The second generation of the Garrett IC seems to be more reliable.
When your intercooler is leaking you will notice loss of coolant in the Engine-Water reservoir. When it is leaking badly, the intake manifolds are dirty and full of green residues from the coolant in the inside. You can see this when you take the intake manifolds off.
Originally Posted by SLK32Germany
No one has proved that the CM30 causes the IC to leak. There were Stock- IC of the first Generation (MB has changed the Part over the years) that have also leaked with the stock Bosch Pump. I don't think it is because of the Pump. Some People also have stronger Pumps than the CM30 and I will upgrade mine too.
In my opinion Vibrations and hard bumps can also make the IC leak in the longrun...The second generation of the Garrett IC seems to be more reliable.
When your intercooler is leaking you will notice loss of coolant in the Engine-Water reservoir. When it is leaking badly, the intake manifolds are dirty and full of green residues from the coolant in the inside. You can see this when you take the intake manifolds off.
In my opinion Vibrations and hard bumps can also make the IC leak in the longrun...The second generation of the Garrett IC seems to be more reliable.
When your intercooler is leaking you will notice loss of coolant in the Engine-Water reservoir. When it is leaking badly, the intake manifolds are dirty and full of green residues from the coolant in the inside. You can see this when you take the intake manifolds off.
I really don't know if the Johnson pump is putting pressure on the IC and is one of the causes of leaks, but that seems to be the feeling on the C32 forum. And several of the members that have upgraded have eventually had their IC's leak.
I wish C3P had their sh** together, and you could buy their upgraded IC.
Please allow me to wade in to this in a soft way: CRAP
The original I/C was on the radiator system and had to suffer the entire pressure of the radiator and stat controlled temperature. Pressure went up to the limit of the radiator pressure cap and if Splinter is still here, he'll quote the exact pressure, assume 15 pounds per square inch.
The stock and better pumps are limited to 5 to 10 PSI in BLANK_OFF conditions and are NO THREAT to the integrity of the I/c core. Boost is often that high and responcible for the accordian effect that flexes the core possibly promoting leaks. Leaks are rare but you need to confirm that you have one. If you have compressed air you could do a leakdown test or do a water pressure test with the engine off. YOU MUST LIMIT THE TEST PRESSURE TO SAY 20 PSIG so as not to cause a big failure where there was not one before.
If you have a leak you could have it rewelded assuming it is in an exposed position, though Id try the best epoxy on a water side leak.
NOW. I have no pressure in my radiator or my I/C system, they are isolated per Brians work. I have the radiator cap loose all the time, too old to fix radiators that flex and fail and newer cars run so much pressure that they get a real work out. Instead, I use 75% antifreeze and the BEST WAL-MART distilled water and install a cooler tstat. I have a 182 and a 170 stat and run the 182 all year. I have lots to do and cars are but a small part so changing stats to avoid low temp CEL's in the weather pretty much changed my approach, use the 180 stat.
BTW the 170 did not make a real change for the fans are computer controlled to maintain stock temps 190+, unless your moving forward - driving.
Looks, cant tell a book by its..............I/C's are samo samo. Test it if in doubt. If your going to replace it, let me have first dibs on the old one so I can do a look see inside, please.
Weekend and date night one start tomorrow..............Weeee
Woody
PS:
I recognize that pink garage rug and H/E
The original I/C was on the radiator system and had to suffer the entire pressure of the radiator and stat controlled temperature. Pressure went up to the limit of the radiator pressure cap and if Splinter is still here, he'll quote the exact pressure, assume 15 pounds per square inch.
The stock and better pumps are limited to 5 to 10 PSI in BLANK_OFF conditions and are NO THREAT to the integrity of the I/c core. Boost is often that high and responcible for the accordian effect that flexes the core possibly promoting leaks. Leaks are rare but you need to confirm that you have one. If you have compressed air you could do a leakdown test or do a water pressure test with the engine off. YOU MUST LIMIT THE TEST PRESSURE TO SAY 20 PSIG so as not to cause a big failure where there was not one before.
If you have a leak you could have it rewelded assuming it is in an exposed position, though Id try the best epoxy on a water side leak.
NOW. I have no pressure in my radiator or my I/C system, they are isolated per Brians work. I have the radiator cap loose all the time, too old to fix radiators that flex and fail and newer cars run so much pressure that they get a real work out. Instead, I use 75% antifreeze and the BEST WAL-MART distilled water and install a cooler tstat. I have a 182 and a 170 stat and run the 182 all year. I have lots to do and cars are but a small part so changing stats to avoid low temp CEL's in the weather pretty much changed my approach, use the 180 stat.
BTW the 170 did not make a real change for the fans are computer controlled to maintain stock temps 190+, unless your moving forward - driving.
Looks, cant tell a book by its..............I/C's are samo samo. Test it if in doubt. If your going to replace it, let me have first dibs on the old one so I can do a look see inside, please.
Weekend and date night one start tomorrow..............Weeee
Woody
PS:
I recognize that pink garage rug and H/E
Last edited by waldig; May 14, 2009 at 02:57 PM.
Originally Posted by waldig
Please allow me to wade in to this in a soft way: CRAP
The original I/C was on the radiator system and had to suffer the entire pressure of the radiator and stat controlled temperature. Pressure went up to the limit of the radiator pressure cap and if Splinter is still here, he'll quote the exact pressure, assume 15 pounds per square inch.
The stock and better pumps are limited to 5 to 10 PSI in BLANK_OFF conditions and are NO THREAT to the integrity of the I/c core. Boost is often that high and responcible for the accordian effect that flexes the core possibly promoting leaks. Leaks are rare but you need to confirm that you have one. If you have compressed air you could do a leakdown test or do a water pressure test with the engine off. YOU MUST LIMIT THE TEST PRESSURE TO SAY 20 PSIG so as not to cause a big failure where there was not one before.
If you have a leak you could have it rewelded assuming it is in an exposed position, though Id try the best epoxy on a water side leak.
NOW. I have no pressure in my radiator or my I/C system, they are isolated per Brians work. I have the radiator cap loose all the time, too old to fix radiators that flex and fail and newer cars run so much pressure that they get a real work out. Instead, I use 75% antifreeze and the BEST WAL-MART distilled water and install a cooler tstat. I have a 182 and a 170 stat and run the 182 all year. I have lots to do and cars are but a small part so changing stats to avoid low temp CEL's in the weather pretty much changed my approach, use the 180 stat.
BTW the 170 did not make a real change for the fans are computer controlled to maintain stock temps 190+, unless your moving forward - driving.
Looks, cant tell a book by its..............I/C's are samo samo. Test it if in doubt. If your going to replace it, let me have first dibs on the old one so I can do a look see inside, please.
Weekend and date night one start tomorrow..............Weeee
Woody
PS:
I recognize that pink garage rug and H/E
The original I/C was on the radiator system and had to suffer the entire pressure of the radiator and stat controlled temperature. Pressure went up to the limit of the radiator pressure cap and if Splinter is still here, he'll quote the exact pressure, assume 15 pounds per square inch.
The stock and better pumps are limited to 5 to 10 PSI in BLANK_OFF conditions and are NO THREAT to the integrity of the I/c core. Boost is often that high and responcible for the accordian effect that flexes the core possibly promoting leaks. Leaks are rare but you need to confirm that you have one. If you have compressed air you could do a leakdown test or do a water pressure test with the engine off. YOU MUST LIMIT THE TEST PRESSURE TO SAY 20 PSIG so as not to cause a big failure where there was not one before.
If you have a leak you could have it rewelded assuming it is in an exposed position, though Id try the best epoxy on a water side leak.
NOW. I have no pressure in my radiator or my I/C system, they are isolated per Brians work. I have the radiator cap loose all the time, too old to fix radiators that flex and fail and newer cars run so much pressure that they get a real work out. Instead, I use 75% antifreeze and the BEST WAL-MART distilled water and install a cooler tstat. I have a 182 and a 170 stat and run the 182 all year. I have lots to do and cars are but a small part so changing stats to avoid low temp CEL's in the weather pretty much changed my approach, use the 180 stat.
BTW the 170 did not make a real change for the fans are computer controlled to maintain stock temps 190+, unless your moving forward - driving.
Looks, cant tell a book by its..............I/C's are samo samo. Test it if in doubt. If your going to replace it, let me have first dibs on the old one so I can do a look see inside, please.
Weekend and date night one start tomorrow..............Weeee
Woody
PS:
I recognize that pink garage rug and H/E
Most of what you say is either over my head or I'm too lazy to figure it out. Either way, from what I gather, the pump has nothing to do with the IC leak?
i think in laymans terms woody is saying the cooling system he has has been pressurized to a max of the radiator cap ie: 15 psi. the pumps both stock and aftermarket are no more than 10 psi. so the pumps arent causing the ic to leak .
by using a lower temp thermostat he is also reducing the amount of pressure build up in the coolant system.
hope i understood you woody!
by using a lower temp thermostat he is also reducing the amount of pressure build up in the coolant system.
hope i understood you woody!
Last edited by 32krazy!; May 14, 2009 at 05:24 PM.
Originally Posted by 32krazy!
i think in laymans terms woody is saying the cooling system he has has been pressurized to a max of the radiators cap ie: 15 psi. the pumps both stock and aftermarket are no more than 10 psi. so the pumps arent causing the ic to leak .
by using a lower temp thermostat he is also reducing the amount of pressure build up in the coolant system.
hope i understood you woody!
by using a lower temp thermostat he is also reducing the amount of pressure build up in the coolant system.
hope i understood you woody!
Last edited by firemen; Feb 6, 2013 at 03:18 AM.
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