code 3 instructions
does anyone have the install instructions for the code 3 pulley? the pdf on the code 3 website wont load. im getting one from a private sale and need to make sure its installed properly
also is there a special tool to hold the oem pulley in place to remove the retaining bolt?
steve
also is there a special tool to hold the oem pulley in place to remove the retaining bolt?
steve
Last edited by 32krazy!; Jun 16, 2009 at 01:16 PM.
Originally Posted by slk32krazy!
does anyone have the install instructions for the code 3 pulley? the pdf on the code 3 website wont load. im getting one from a private sale and need to make sure its installed properly
also is there a special tool to hold the oem pulley in place to remove the retaining bolt?
steve
also is there a special tool to hold the oem pulley in place to remove the retaining bolt?
steve
I went to the local Checker/Oriley autoparts and bouth a 2 piece strap wrench kit for like $10

and you need only reverse torx socket I think? E10?

From memory-
Remove the 2 reverse torx (forgot size, 10?) holding the air pump line clamps. Pull the rubber hoses off from the head, and move 2nd air pump hard lines out of the way. Look at my attached pics. I circled the e-torx bolts.
Unclip the radiator hose (plastic clip)
Take the other reverse torx, put it on the tensioner pulley with a rather long ratchet/breakerbar. Losen tension and remove belt from the SC pulley.
Use ratchet strap hold pulley, remove bolt from SC. (think its a 12mm?) note location of the marking paint. When torqed down (forgot spec, I think 20nm) it should line back up. The bolt is hollow, if over torqued bolt will snap. I believe it was done to prevent you from stripping out SC.
Note how many (if any) Spacers are on the stock SC pulley. Dont lose them.
Last edited by ACRucrazy; Jun 17, 2009 at 02:25 PM.
Originally Posted by slk32krazy!
does anyone have the install instructions for the code 3 pulley? the pdf on the code 3 website wont load. im getting one from a private sale and need to make sure its installed properly
also is there a special tool to hold the oem pulley in place to remove the retaining bolt?
steve
also is there a special tool to hold the oem pulley in place to remove the retaining bolt?
steve
thanx robby! acr i have those strap wrenches and ill pick up a set of reverse torx. YEAH more tools~!!!!
hopefully ill have the pulley by the weekend and can put it on . maybe ill see some decent gains.
hopefully ill have the pulley by the weekend and can put it on . maybe ill see some decent gains.
About those torx sockets. The instructions are incorrect on the size the tensioner has. It's an
E-10, not an E-11. So all you need are E-10 and E-12 torx, 12mm socket, strap wrench, torque wrench, something for the nerves and away you go. Enjoy the smell of burning rubber!
Les
E-10, not an E-11. So all you need are E-10 and E-12 torx, 12mm socket, strap wrench, torque wrench, something for the nerves and away you go. Enjoy the smell of burning rubber!
Les
should be ok as i own a m/b slk32 not a srt-6. i am able to find so much more infom here than any of the m/b forums!! my 32 is big brother of the srt-6 family!
FYI, The gap between the back of your new pulley and the sc magnetic clutch disc should be between 20 and 30 thousants of an inch. Add a spark plug gapping tool to your tool box if you don't have one. good luck with the install.
ILLCYA
ILLCYA
Originally Posted by PA/XFIRE
FYI, The gap between the back of your new pulley and the sc magnetic clutch disc should be between 20 and 30 thousants of an inch. Add a spark plug gapping tool to your tool box if you don't have one. good luck with the install.
ILLCYA
ILLCYA
Les
I don't know. The instructions for the first versions of the Code 3 pulley were just as PA / XFIRE stated. The later versions come with no washers or specifications concerning the clearance. But just so you know, mine works great and has .. oooooo .. 47 mm of clearance.
Les
Les
I don't mean to thread jack but I just ordered a Code3 pulley and was wondering how long others had to wait for delievery. I called Code3 but no answer and am anxious to get this on. Also I can't find a thread that describes the difference between shipsets. I am of the understanding that this is the third batch/shipset and that the older ones are considered better. Can someone give me a quick rundown of possible issues with the newer ones? Again sorry for off topic, but I will be using this thread to install
Originally Posted by velociabstract
I measured the stock pulley before the install and it had a clearance of 45 mm. (Isn't it still called a feeler gauge?) My Code 3 has a hair more than 45 mm but it works without issues. I was watching the pulley free wheel the other day at idle. Boy am I easy to entertain!
Les
Les
Originally Posted by goodgenes79
I don't mean to thread jack but I just ordered a Code3 pulley and was wondering how long others had to wait for delievery. I called Code3 but no answer and am anxious to get this on. Also I can't find a thread that describes the difference between shipsets. I am of the understanding that this is the third batch/shipset and that the older ones are considered better. Can someone give me a quick rundown of possible issues with the newer ones? Again sorry for off topic, but I will be using this thread to install
do know that getting an answer from code 3 is a task. if you have any questions after reading the search info pm me and i'll try to answer any questions you might have.Good luck with the new pulley. ILLCYA
I wish I did a step by step with pics on mine as its sooo simple and the instructions from C3 are poor IMO. Extra steps listed in those that simply are not needed.
I went to the local Checker/Oriley autoparts and bouth a 2 piece strap wrench kit for like $10

and you need only reverse torx socket I think? E10?

From memory-
Remove the 2 reverse torx (forgot size, 10?) holding the air pump line clamps. Pull the rubber hoses off from the head, and move 2nd air pump hard lines out of the way. Look at my attached pics. I circled the e-torx bolts.
Unclip the radiator hose (plastic clip)
Take the other reverse torx, put it on the tensioner pulley with a rather long ratchet/breakerbar. Losen tension and remove belt from the SC pulley.
Use ratchet strap hold pulley, remove bolt from SC. (think its a 12mm?) note location of the marking paint. When torqed down (forgot spec, I think 20nm) it should line back up. The bolt is hollow, if over torqued bolt will snap. I believe it was done to prevent you from stripping out SC.
Note how many (if any) Spacers are on the stock SC pulley. Dont lose them.
I went to the local Checker/Oriley autoparts and bouth a 2 piece strap wrench kit for like $10

and you need only reverse torx socket I think? E10?

From memory-
Remove the 2 reverse torx (forgot size, 10?) holding the air pump line clamps. Pull the rubber hoses off from the head, and move 2nd air pump hard lines out of the way. Look at my attached pics. I circled the e-torx bolts.
Unclip the radiator hose (plastic clip)
Take the other reverse torx, put it on the tensioner pulley with a rather long ratchet/breakerbar. Losen tension and remove belt from the SC pulley.
Use ratchet strap hold pulley, remove bolt from SC. (think its a 12mm?) note location of the marking paint. When torqed down (forgot spec, I think 20nm) it should line back up. The bolt is hollow, if over torqued bolt will snap. I believe it was done to prevent you from stripping out SC.
Note how many (if any) Spacers are on the stock SC pulley. Dont lose them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
usprb1976
TSBs and How-To Articles
5
Apr 4, 2024 04:57 PM
2005 Ragtop
Wheels, Brakes, Tires and Suspension
7
Oct 3, 2015 03:01 PM
tritongreen
Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & Modifications
0
Sep 18, 2015 07:32 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)



