Realize that a pulley will give the biggest bang for the dollar. However, not sure I really want to go that way.

Anyone just running a CAI(older style Needswings) and having a tune completed. I was told this would give me approx. 37 more RWHP. Realize this is about 10% increase in base line. However, will I really get that much more noticeable performance gain.

As usual I appreciate your knowledge and experience.

Regards,
Jake80

 

with the code 3 and tune and SL55 your gains will be to about 343 to 348 rwhp. so with a tune ,cai you will be around 330 rwhp,, stock if i remember is around 315 rwhp. jim

Randy just gave me the correct hp my halfhymers made me forget a lot of hp,, here is the correction
stock whp is around 266. The CAI and Code 3 pully should take it up to around 345 rwhp with a tune and 400 crank hp plus. That is based on the dyno's we did. I stand corrected.. my dyno WHP was 348,, i have tune, code 3 ,sl55 intake, larger H E and code 3 manifold gaskets. jim

 

Hmmm that doesnt sound right....

What would the equate in 1/4 or 1/8th mile times? A tune/CAI should do a little bit more than 15RWHP, although thats coming from a background with turbocharged cars.. now im curious as well... Has anyone tried and dyno'd this particular setup?

Kolme

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...imes-nats.html

check out that thread it has a bunch of times with code 3's, intakes and tunes

 

The needswings cai really does boost horsepower as claimed. I think a bone stock SRT6 on an accurate dyno would see less than 300whp. So you probably will gain the 30 whp. The intake being the most restrictive part of this car definitely is the first thing that needs to go.

 

if you do a NeedsWings intake and an inMotion ECU tune, you will REALLY notice the gains!

everyone here is going to try and sell you on the pulleys because they hit the track quite a bit.

but if you are using this as a streetable, everyday car, but want it to be more fun, definitely go intake and tune, you will not be disappointed. everyone i have steered this way has written to me and thanked me because the power increase was so noticeable, and they didn't have to deal with the headaches of pulley installs.

i even upgraded the intake manifolds without doing a pulley kit, and the car just keeps getting more powerful.

they will also argue that the pulleys are plenty-reliable, but i have heard plenty of evidence to the contrary, plus, it is creating more wear on the drivetrain and other components. and that is not subjective, that is a fact. more heat, more spin, more friction etc. not good for everyday use.
if you are just putting her on a trailer and driving her to the track on the weekends, then by all means, do pulleys. i have a BLAST driving mine without pullies.
i will likely be crucified for my post. enjoy.

 

Thanks for all the input.

I am just looking for street performance improvements since I do not plan to run at the track.

Got a PM from one of the performance tuners and they indicate with CAI and tune it should give approx. 35WHP increase.

As someone else stated I believe a bone stock SRT has less than 300WHP at the present. So what ever that number is it should increase by at least 30-35WHP.

Just wanted to make sure I was not spending $500 on a tune and not get much. I picked up a used CAI from another forum member in a quest to save some $'s.

Jake80

 

J, you will definitely NOT be blasted, especially by this guy 'cause those 2 items are all I ever planned on doing to my SRT.
Mine's a daily driver. Going for all the mods. I'd like to try isn't practical. With just a tune & a CAI (I highly recommend Needwings) you'll experience some nice gains, enough to be very noticable but not enough to be an issue with getting out on the road.
Besides, both items increase your gas mileage! You can't go wrong with an actual ROI; how many other mods. have a monetary payback?

 

Jake, less than 300Rwhp. Stock the SRT runs at 349hp (some say 354) at the crank.

 

I see no reason not to run a code 3 pulley. Very easy to install, not overspeeding the supercharger or any of the other pulleys, waterpump, alternator etc. All the tune does is put the engine on the edge for timing and lean the fuel curve. I think its safer to put a bit more boost in than lean the fuel and add timing. Not to mention it makes the throttle and bottom/mid range hit harder. Timing will also, but not to the same degree. Crusing at part throttle should not introduce much more heat over factory pulleys for the intake as throttle plate is ahead of supercharger and not making boost with plate closed or only partially open. Tune should be a bit easier on the fuel mileage though. I've been running mine on the street every weekend with intake and code 3 and loving every minute of it. Stock was not quite up to the task. You can only make so much power safely on pump fuel before deto sensor starts pulling timing from motor and reducing power anyway. I don't think I'll add a tune at this point yet. Maybe won't at all for street use.

 

I now stand corrected

 

yup, i put down 268hp on my stock dyno.

 

My stock numbers were the same - 267.5 RWHP on the DynoJet - still with the factory rev limiter set at 5800 rpm.

With all my mods and the ECU tune bumping the rev limiter up to 6000 rpm - I ended at 362 RWHP on several pulls.

Not too bad for less then $2,500.... (minus my custom IC tank & polish work)

Truly unnecessary for street legal driving & commuting...but it sure is a lot of fun if you like to romp....

 

Rev limiter @ 5800? My car is shifting at 6100-6200 on every shift with SVO cold air intake and Code 3 - 65mm pulley. I don't hear a rev limiter at 5800! Near as I know theres no tune in it either. Should be stock tune. Am I missing something or could the tach be that far off?

 

He was talking about the Rev limiter when the car is on the dyno - If the front wheels are not turning the car hits a rev limiter at 5800 when it is on the dyno. On the street the the front wheels are turning is it will not happen.

Also... have you tried turning the traction control off and holding the gear selector to the left so the car will stay in 1st as long as possible and then floor it? MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO OTHER CARS AROUND - I went sideways fast and hard. I have a found appreciation for the traction control now.

No more taking off traction control for me if there is anything I can hit withing 100 ft.


alos...when i first dynoed the car completely stock with K&N filters I got 292 rwhp

 

svo hows the dual cai coming along?

 

As many have said above, you cannot go wrong with a CAI and a tune. Don't forget that if you go with LET or InMotion for the tune that a re-tune later (if you decide to add a pulley or whatever) is free.

Aside from the added power, you'll love hearing the sound of the supercharger whine after you add a CAI.

 

So those of you that have a tune, is it definitely worth the $500-600?
Any reason one tune is superior to the other - InMotion or Eurocharged/LET?

Still debating on doing this. Note that I am running the NW single CAI, ASP 178, and a PTE therm.

From what I gather, adding a custom tune to my current mods would make it quite the beast. Any disagreements with that?

Gracias.

 

A tune is definitely worth it. I served as a baseline for some Eurocharged products. For me I dyno'd 252rwhp stock on their DynoDynamics which around 295rwhp on DynoJet. After a tune (and no other mods) I dyno'd again at 276rwhp (~324rwhp on DynoJet).

So either way you want to look at it I gained 25-30 RWHP off of a tune alone is not bad at all... roughly $50/hp.

Ask ProjectMayhem, he just got back from Eurocharged and I believe he has the CAI/178 + a tune... he dyno'd 320ish on the dynodynamics then went to the track and layed down a 12.0 1/4mile.

So yes, beast is a good word.

 

Definately tune it...

There are differences with both tunes, but you will be happy going either way!