Ok here are the symptoms Cruising on streets when I let completely off of the gas petal i get a light clunk, then lightly getting back on the gas there is a slight surge then i bigger clunk. I can repeat this easily by just fully releasing the gas petal and getting back into it. It seems worst then crusising at around 1,200-1,700 rpms down streets. also slowing to a full stop at stopsigns i feel it lightly also. I'm curious if anyone else is experiencing this? its quite bad and a little embarassing for anyone else to ride in it.

Personally it feels like the torque converter is surging then locking. I had this problem in an older car when the transmission fuild got low I hoping thats all it is in this case getting the transmission fluid level checked monday.

Full throttle acceleration from a stop or on the highway seems uneffected.

 

Sounds like driveline backlash-u-joints?

 

......yep.

 

check the center carrier bearing for excesseive play. this will be the first casualty in driveline failure

 

we don't have u joints we have big 1" thick rubber disk like a flex joint on big 700hp motors to pumps but it has to be them or the rear end or the tranny. jim

 

More then likely center carrier bearing. Needswings sells them.

 

Transmission fluid just doesn't dissappear rapidly without leaks. Drive shaft problem would be my guess, even CV joints but they tend to get noisy, clicks at first getting into rumbles.
PS
Clicks to one person is a pop to another, rumbles to one is a groan to another and so on.

 

Here you go.

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Have you had to replace yours yet cruizin? still have warranty left on the car so i may decide to just take it to the Stealership.

 

Not yet, car still feels pretty good. Big difference is running at the track versus the street is wheel hop. With DR's after a burnout you shouldn't get any at launch. On the street with any tires and poor traction you will get plenty. That extra vibration can cause lots of problems. I drive like a grandpa on the street. I have warranty left until Feb 2010, and plan on taking it in for the once over before it's up. Just remember the stealership has problems locating parts and you might be without your car for a while.

If you can jack your car up on one side you will be able to see the rubber around the bearing towards the back under the gas tank area. Should be easy to tell if it's tore or showing signs of cracking.

 

yo, cruzinquick.

I see that you've done quite a few mods to your XF. Do you ever encounter any problems with the stealership honoring your warranty because of the mods? Have the blackbeards ever denied coverage for repairs?... either related or unrelated to your changes from OEM?

I know a lot of times they'll look for any excuse. Once my dealer griped about resetting some codes simply because I've got DRL fogs.

 

Don't know only took it back once for a door handle. If I swapped my CAI and mani's back to stock it would be very difficult to tell anything is done to my car. I have stock cooling, plugs, pump, wires, belt, and exhaust. I had my 178 and NW CAI one of the times in, but doubt they even popped my hood. I won't take it back again unless it's something major. They scratched my door and broke more parts than they replaced. Took a month for them to order the parts and repaint my inside door. Early on I had my fuel pump replaced but the car was stock. My hood shock needs replacing, but I'm holding off taking it back until I have too. Even with warranty I don't trust the dealer with the car.

 

cruz just push the red button on the strut and raise the hood vertical. never buy another strut!! goodgenes79 dropped his jaw when i showed this to him. you can pull the engine without removing the hood!

 

sounds like the bearing of the cardan shaft, under the exhaust. broke at 70K km at my slk.

 

Thanks for the tip, yep I use that way when I cool my motor. Our button is black, and it won't stay all the way up with the strut out. Just lock at normal mid position, which is good enough for me.

 

thats odd. goodgenes79 strut goes all the way to the top like my 32 does. clicks in place to hold it vertical

 

Yea it's the bottom portion of the shock that holds it up at the top. Mine will go all the way up, but with the bottom portion of the shock that is shot, it won't stay there.