for the 1/4 mile guys!
found this on mbworld. looks like a quality setup. now someone make this same setup for less than 100$ so i can afford it!
actually the price doesnt seem to bad but tuning is my priority for now.
evosport - Line Lock kit for you drag racing fanatics! - MBWorld.org Forums
actually the price doesnt seem to bad but tuning is my priority for now.
evosport - Line Lock kit for you drag racing fanatics! - MBWorld.org Forums
Help me here....what is the difference from a "regular" line lock kit? I used one on the vette...and have a kit setting on my shelf in the garage...I just need to know why I can't install the kit I have vs theirs....
you do not need to do a big smokey burnout at the track unless you have slicks. i barely if at all "smoke" my tires and they grip great. even mickey thompson says not to do a big burnout, all it does is wear out your expensive tires faster.
I have to agree with that...when switching to the slicks, my 60' times went up a bit...I done better with my streets. I need to get the launch down with the slicks...I launched so hard with the slicks, I thought I broke the rear end when I heard a pop sound. You don't spin that much if the track is prepped well. I think the line lock will prolly remain on the shelf....thanks...
Doc, get those DR's warmed up good enough to chirp before you stage and they should be good to go. I have the same problem if I dont warm them good and get any water off them before staging. We are all kinda hosed if they dont prep the track good...then I just ease into it instead of stomping on it... not as good times, but I still get to race.....
with my streets all i do is spin. with my nittos the launches are hard but they need to be heated a good bit before. my main concern is the wear on the rear brakes while doing the burnouts.
if i read the thread correctly the npt fittings are different on the mb than most cars. also the lock can throw codes for the abs if the solenoids arent the right type.
anyway i just thought someone might find this interesting
if i read the thread correctly the npt fittings are different on the mb than most cars. also the lock can throw codes for the abs if the solenoids arent the right type.
anyway i just thought someone might find this interesting
first time with them, crowded track, no excuses, I just post what I run...it will get better....but, I thought about putting the line lock on, it is just setting on the shelf...it would be better on the rear brakes, but I raced for yrs without one...I sure wouldn't pay more than $80 for one though to stay on topic here...we'll get better....just need more track time...
thanks 32, I just needed to understand, that is a big money difference, and I have seen others over on your side that have installed a regular line lock kit without codes and such...I'll keep reading...
Thanks for the post Krazy. I had seen that post too but couldnt figure out why I needed to spend $400 instead of using my foot...
The rear breaks dont get enough wear in normal use anyway.......
The rear breaks dont get enough wear in normal use anyway.......
yep, Mike, is correct...if you aren't heavy on the brake while brake torquing...it doesn't affect the rears that much....but line locks are neat for really cool burn outs...lol
Originally Posted by MikeR
Thanks for the post Krazy. I had seen that post too but couldnt figure out why I needed to spend $400 instead of using my foot...
The rear breaks dont get enough wear in normal use anyway.......
The rear breaks dont get enough wear in normal use anyway.......
picture this 32, you brake torque just enough to get the rears spinning, you ease off once they are spinning just enough to hold it back, the front brakes are holding, but the rear brakes aren't really fully engaged.......just ease off after you get them lit up, and the rears won't be engaged that much at all...no heating up the rotors, no pad wear....when in a real braking situation, the fronts will engage first, then the rears....fronts are your real stopping power...
Originally Posted by oledoc2u
picture this 32, you brake torque just enough to get the rears spinning, you ease off once they are spinning just enough to hold it back, the front brakes are holding, but the rear brakes aren't really fully engaged.......just ease off after you get them lit up, and the rears won't be engaged that much at all...no heating up the rotors, no pad wear....when in a real braking situation, the fronts will engage first, then the rears....fronts are your real stopping power...
but the linelock on a mb WOULD have a major cool factor at the track!!
if you have to stomp the brakes to hold it back...quess what? you have traction...no need to burn any longer. You just want them to stick....and yes, there is the cool factor...but $$$ spent that doesn't = HP...lol Have fun with it....
Originally Posted by oledoc2u
if you have to stomp the brakes to hold it back...quess what? you have traction...no need to burn any longer. You just want them to stick....and yes, there is the cool factor...but $$$ spent that doesn't = HP...lol Have fun with it....
we are low budget racers over here....lol....no, I admire what they do over there....nice cars, nice track times...but over modding isn't what I am all about, I just love to be at the end of the 1/4 before the other guy....
Last edited by oledoc2u; Nov 29, 2009 at 02:47 PM.
I go around the water then back into it with rear only,,, with my nitto's i have to heat them or they will spin too much,, i have tried it dry,,with no burnout just clean them off,,, i have tried with very little burn out and i have tried hot burnout,,, and my front brakes hold just fine for me,,, my last 10 RT's were .1.0` to .009 that works for me. jim


