off topic

60-130 sounded reasonable to me because that is about what two cars on the highway might get in a quick race (if they slowed down a bit at the beginning to have more of a race)

However, from looking at the MB thread, they don't actually start at 60 and punch it, like they would in an actual short highway race. They punch it at 25 or so and then subtract the time taken to get to 60 from that taken to get to 130. So they are actually racing from 25-130 but only counting the 60-130 part, which is not any race at all, is purely numbers-only, and makes the 60 starting point even more arbitrary (since it isn't for highway racing since they don't actually floor it at 60).

I could just about assume this was started by a car group that had a shift right before the 60mph marker, and so favored their car (they probably also shift right after 130). Even better, for the C5 or C6 Vette, which is the standard "fast" car around most areas, they hit slightly over 60mph in 1st gear, so they get an extra shift right at the beginning. I smell intentional BS in the 60-130, whereas I initially liked the idea.

 

Only way to split the hairs and eliminate all other variables would be to run the same engine with the diffrent pullies installed on an engine dyno in a controlled environment and record the crank HP..

 

Thanks. Maybe some day MrPhoto shows us if his car can maintain his really good 1/4 mile times in 4th and 5th gear? If he is faster than my 23 Seconds from 100-270 KM/H I will congratulate him...

Don't take this too serious. I like what he is doing with Water/Meth etc.

 

Around here people consider those that roll race unskilled drivers. I will tell you that I have ZERO cooling issues so maintining high speeds is absolutely no problem what so ever if that helps. If you ever come to the USA with your car I would be more than happy to race you on both a road course and a drag strip. I am not into street racing and the dangers that go along with it.

I think you guys should try to keep the original posters thread on track and quit worrying so much about what I am doing with my car. I think the results I have achieved with my car speaks for itself.

 

Actually, AFAIK the idea was started by the mega-HP car guys at 6speedonline.com as a "truer" test of real-world performance (which, of course, is subjective). Check out some eyebrow-raising times here:

6speedonline's official 60-130, 1/4 Mile, and standing mile list - 6speedonline.com Forums

The MBWorld thread acknowledges that the idea is "borrowed" from 6speed. Agree that it absolutely is "numbers-only," much like someone quoting an ET achieved at the strip. Has to be a GPS-based recording, has to be within certain incline/decline parameters, etc. People try different techniques to improve their results - flooring it from zero-130 doesn't necessarily give the best results, nor 59-130... so they try different things and post their best results. Gearing and powerband curves make the most difference in how the owners plan their runs, IMO.

 

I'm not disagreeing too much, as dragstrip times on non daily driver tires don't mean much to me since I drive my car around on the road and no, I'm not going to wait for someone to go home and bolt on some dr's to have a race.

But at least dragstrip times mean something ... that is if two cars line up next to each other at a dragstrip from a stop you can see who wins in a 1/4 mile race. The 60-130 means absolutely nothing as far as racing, because there are no real world conditions that are remotely close to what it is measuring (since they floor it from whereever and only count the 60+ part). Can you get a rough idea of horsepower from it? Yes, but that's what a dyno is for ... and along with weight you get a fine estimation of acceleration ability.

 

Going back to a previous contested point- as much as I truly love drag racing it may not always be the best way to judge performance. Especially if you are trying to compare two particular cars. As MrPhotoman even said it's involves a lot of skill. There are too many variables that can cause huge discrepencies by the end of the 1/4. I know if break loose off the line I may see times as slow as 13.xx.

Roll racing does take the "skill" out of it but also takes most of the "traction" issues out of it and objectively shows which car is more powerful- as opposed to who has better slicks and/or staging & launching technique.

 

Agree. I think this was the question of 240, where the 181mm and where the C3P have their advantage from a rolling start, without traction/launching issues.

 

If I sounded like I was attacking anyone in this thread I am sorry. My point simply was that when post people want to seriously measure a cars performance they take it to a controlled enviroment such as a track, not the street.

How your car launches is just as important as how your car does on the top end. That is one of the big reasons why people prefer rwd over fwd.

 

I agree......

 

Sure it is important how a car launches. But I don't think there is much difference between the different pullies when we talk about launching... Even on the whole 1/4 mile the different pullies seem to be close together now. There are fast times with each version...

By the way, I would NEVER do a race in areas with traffic, passengers etc.!!! But we are lucky to have a few Highways without Speed Limit and with 3 Lanes etc., where you can do a friendly serious comparison WITHOUT bring other cars or drivers in danger. I think also the Mile events in the U.S. are a great possibility for everyone to experience how your car performs with longer WOT and at higher Speeds.

 

Okay I'll retract my comment now here is my question: Which kit and how would you decide.
1.Snow performance
2.Devil's own
3.Alky controls.
4.Other
All have progressive controllers and all seem to be very similar, Did you tap the factory washer fluid tank or use there supplied bottle. Also which ignition lead did you tap for a hot wire?

 

We have the rolling start down to the point of where its not an issue. Whoever hits it first gets off and back on the throttle for a millisecond to keep it even. It doesnt even matter if he starts first the 181 car pulls on the code 3 car instantaneously. Once again when i had a code 3 we were dead even. Thats as technical as im gonna get with that.

Here is the data log in 54 degree weather with the 181 pulley, NW intake, IM tune, and supercooler. The line on the first screen shot is at the top of 3rd gear, the line on the second is at the top of 4th. Notice the AFR starts to act up in the top of 4th gear, and it directly corresponds with the messy fuel reading. This car has a walbro 255 FP.

A word on the blips in the lines. The AFR highs are 19.5 AFR and lows are 13.2. The fuel pressure highs are 65psi and lows are 48. Thats one hell of a fluctuation. Have fun with this.
006-9.jpg
004-18.jpg

 

What do your spark plugs look like?

 

007-8.jpg
008-8.jpg

 

Don't know the biggest timing advance under WOT from the IM-tune. 135F IAT at the end of 4th is not that bad. My temperature is a little lower and my car does not pull one degree of timing at the end of 4th. Does your C3P buddy also have datalogs from his run?

 

looks like time for new plugs to me.

 

He does not have a datalogger but he is on a stock HE.

I agree they dont look that great, but its my 3rd set. The lean issue has been with me for a while, i have played with different gap's, gone a step colder on plugs and it has never effected the AFR's at all.

 

Judging by the article below, looks like you could advance timing a bit? Thoughts?? Also, the plug looks like it is in the perfect heat range as only a couple of threads are black and the rest are shiny.

Spark plug reading

 

Third set in less than 20K miles if I recall....I would like to data log my car...lets get together this weekend and see what mine does.