Is there a DIY for this mod? Can we still get these from PTE? Thanks in advance.

 

I designed a 180 and 170 stat and did posts showing how it was done using the off the shelf Stant heavy duty stats and our housing. You may have to look it up in my earlier posts, Woody

Drilling a hole in it does not materially change its operation, BTW.

 

Found it! Thanks, perfect project for next weekend.

 

Just so everyone knows, PTE made a post over at mbworld about a month ago stating he is no longer making the 180 thermostats.

Here is the post: WTB PTE thermostat.... - MBWorld.org Forums

This really sucks, since I have the -10 fan mod, but it doesn't really do any good without a modified t-stat. Guess I'll have to take a look at Woody's thread.

 

i have the pte 180 tstat. glad i got it when i did. it was on sale too!

 

So where does one get a 180 Tstat and fan mod these days? Doing a coolant system flush and overflow replacement soon.

 

Would this be a good mod for a NA? Would it affect drivability any?

 

I could not get the -10 fan mod to work through tuning, so I found a controller. It's in my build thread. Waldig has a DIY for the 180 stat. Shardul has two pte's for sale right now on the merc. forum.

 

Thanks, $190 each from Shardul on MBWorld. I will search for Woody's DIY. I do remember the controller you installed, still like the way it works? I have the silver switch from Rudy and want to do all of this at one time if I can.

 

$190 is a ripoff IMHO... I get the OEM for under $40. There is no problem with these cars while cruising and the fan is more than capable of keeping the car cool at idle and in traffic. There are plenty of cars out there that run 203+deg thermostats.

 

Talk me into the thermostat and fan mods.

My car seems to run the fastest when the engine is hot and the intake air temp is cool. She likes the engine coolant temp to be 195-200. Below 190 and I run slower. What do you think?

Readings are from the OBD-II port with an Innovate OT-2 scanner/logger.

 

After reading your posts on that subject I switched back to a stock thermostat. It seems a little slower to me but that's just seat of the pants. Your time slips point otherwise right?

 

The factory ECU sets optimal ignition timing when the engine coolant temps are 87-100 degrees Celsius or 190-212 degrees Fahrenheit. Modern engine coolant temps are designed to run this hot because of the need for higher engine oil temps. Higher engine oil temps boil off moisture that may have accumulated during the engine at rest.... Also for emissions purposes and fuel economy.
I have done a lot of reading and self testing on coolant temps, trans oil temps and engine oil temps. Based on what my logs are telling me, my car tends to perform the best at 195-205deg F coolant temps, 210-220 engine oil temps and trans oil temps around 190. You want to keep the spread between coolant and engine oil temps under a 20deg difference, anything higher and something needs attention.

 

Great info thank you.

 

Yes, awesome info!

 

Call me lazy to serach through other posts....but someone might chime in as to what benefit there is in the T-stat opening 9F lower than stock....????

You should know me by now....
Engine coolant inventory is 8kg x 5degC x 3.8kJ/kg = 150kJ = 142,000 Btu
divide that by seconds to rise that 5C to work out kW

 

Looks like there is no benefit.

 

This is exactly consistent with what I have found at the drag strip with my car.

 

Our car runs in the 185-190 range...how do I get that temp up?

 

Thank you for posting good feedback, i appreciate it, but why is there such an interest and market for 180 tstat then?