Yesterday, I was driving and noticed that my fog lights and parking lights were on. The problem was, that I didn't have them turned on. I tried turning my lights on and off but no matter what I tried they remained on. I finally pulled the fuses for the fog lights and parking lights to turn them off. Today, I'm going to try a battery reset. Has anyone run into this problem before. (If so) What did you do? I think the battery might be going bad because my radio cut off for no reason a few times yesterday. Unfortunately, I left my volt meter at work. I hope that I don't have a short to power. One more thing, my right head light went out the other day and I haven't had a chance to replace the bulb yet. Do you think that could be causing my fog light gremlins?

 

I don't know if a burned out headlamp would cause other light problems, but it needs to be replaced anyway so you've got nothing to lose by trying that.

As for the original battery, I'd get that replaced ASAP. I went with an AGM from O'Reilly auto parts and have been very pleased with it. I'm not sure if they have O'Reillys where you are, but their Super Start AGM is a Deka made by East Penn Mfg. They are pricey, but I felt the AGM quality was worth it....

Super Start 48AGM - Battery 2005 Chrysler Crossfire | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Are these the lights that come on for a minute or so when you switch the car off and shut the door, if so then the timer/relay that initiates this action may be at fault.

 

well, if he's lucky, it's the relay - relatively cheap

If he's got MY luck, it's the module that controls the relay - none of them are cheap!



GOOD ONE 180, "fog and parking lights" - yea, that's the "courtesy" thing that lights the lights so you can get into the garage! Yup, stuck relay or bad module, I bet.

 

Hey, noles...... if this is still a problem, and since I have little else to do, I'll go out in the garage and see if I can find the relay/relays that are suspect here. HOPEFULLY, the module (which I think in this case is the BCM) that controls them is not the problem...

 

From a PM I sent Noles:

It ain't a relay. See page 8W - 10 -18 of the (Non-Srt) Service manual.

The headlamp switch provides power directly to the lights, no relay is involved. (Sorry, we all hoped it was a relay). To make the lights come on for that "Courtesy" thing I spoke about, the "Central Locking Pump/Security System Module" feeds power into the light switch on a pin that bypasses the switch - this feeds power directly to the light bulbs.

So... it has to be the above-mentioned module! What I would do:

1) Replace that old battery, as that makes the modules act up.

2) But as a test, pull the negative battery cable off the battery and let the car sit for at least 2 minutes. Put the cable back on and start the car, turn lights on - move the car 5 feet and park it, turn the lights off and engine off. See if the lights come back on when you exit the vehilce, then turn off after 90 seconds or so.... which they are supposed to!

What I am getting at is:
MAYBE the module is just confused, probably by low/unstable voltage due to an old battery. Old batteries in these cars can make the radio act up, the car not start, and some accessories take on a mind of their own, etc.

See what happens after pulling the batttery cable off for a bit. But again, ANY battery over 3 years old is a potential chance to walk home or call a tow truck!

My new battery was under $93 with all taxes at O'Reilly auto parts.

 

The headlamp control module/switch on the Crossfire and SLK is kind of a stupid design. The interior fuse panel is actually part of the headlamp switch assembly and everything runs through there.

When I upgraded my car to Xenon headlights the first time, I made the mistake of not using the included "black boxes" that cut high frequency interference to the other electricals in the car. The result? I fried my factory headlamp switch and the symptoms of this were exactly what you describe. Fog lights would stay on even if I didn't have them on, in addition to the other lamps including the city lights and the rear parking lamps.

If it does not end up being the Central Locking Pump (and note that on my car this pump wasn't even in the car when all this happened as it was water logged and damaged), or a low battery condition, I would turn my attention to the switch itself. Mine was replaced under warranty with an aftermarket part that seems to be holding up just fine, I believe even the aftermarket part still ran about 400 or so dollars.

 

Check out a thread I wrote a few months back:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...you-trunk.html

The dealer found several problems, but due to cost they replaced only the illumination control module (the headlight switch). I fixed the other problems with duct tape, WD-40, and a hammer.

Good luck!

 

I know that this is a really old post, but I am wondering if anyone had solved this problem. My problem started with not being able to put my top down. As I was going through the motions, I found a trace of water in my truck. After disassembling the trunk interior I found out the central locking pump was sitting in water. After cleaning up all the water drying out the pump cleaning all the contacts I installed it back into the car and it appeared to work as it should. My door locks now worked with the key fob and the interior button but the situation I have now is that my fog lights tail lamps and parking lights stay on with the light switch in the off position. I read in another post that a gentleman removed his central locking pump and this turned his fog lights and tail lights off. I was going to order new or used central locking pump but now I am not sure if that will solve my problem. I am charging the battery at this time and then I will see if the top works properly. My thought was with the central locking system not working properly, the top down function couldn’t recognize the trunk lock signal and thus would not start its cycle. Any help would really be appreciated, just don’t want to start changing parts until I find a problem, as my budget will not allow me to do so. Thank you all in advance. John

 

Water damaged electronics belong in the trash can. PERIOD. Go find a central locking pump from a wrecked car (that is not damaged); also, IF there is corrosion on the pins of the connector, you need to replace those pins. (Go ahead, try cleaning water damaged pins - that always turns into a "Dr. Phil" moment....

 

Thank you, there is a few o eBay.

 

The pump in the trunk has a switch that is timed and it controls the lights that are on when three ignition is turned off. The pump controls more than just the door locks.

The best bet is to buy a pump That has the plugs still on it, the pigtails Left when the wires were cut are then spliced to the original wires from which you have cut the plugs.
DO NOT buy a pump without the plugs and get the seller to commit to taking the pump back if the plugs are corroded.
Fitting new contacts into a plug is tedious and unnecessary work.

 

I have found several on eBay, some have the electrical connections still on them and some do not. The two pumps I am interested in have very good pictures of the electrical pins and they all seem to be intact without any corrosion. Are you saying I should still stay away from these and purchase one with the wiring pigtails still attached?
I tried uploading a picture but having trouble, I have the knowledge to rebuild an engine but I am very technically challenged when it comes to this iPad!

 

Just make sure the seller will take back a faulty pump, terminals clean and inside should be free from water damage.

 

I just wanted to follow up with you guys, I ordered a used central locking pump off of eBay for $150. Install the used unit and everything worked related to the pump except for my convertible top which is why I started this investigation in the first place. The only relation the pump would have to the top would be the trunk lock, which is activated after unlatching the top, When you activate the top button on the council, the first step is to lock the trunk and for some reason this was not happening, thus no convertible top operation.I then Ordered a new locking pump from a Mercedes dealership that a friend of mine operates. I installed the new pump and the clouds parted and the sun came out, and everything worked as it was supposed to. As you know my old pump was submerged in water and I did find corrosion on the plug connections. I took my time and also cleaned The connectors with electrical cleaner and a tiny wire brush that I use to clean my paint guns. I just want to thank you guys for the help in the tidbits of information you gave me to help me figure this out

 

Thanks for posting the final outcome. It's always good to know what works and what doesn't work. Congratulations! (And take good care of that Mercedes dealership friend....)

 

Can he be my friend too? I have gone through these forums and attempted 90% of the suggestions.. I was sure I had no water damage, as I had no indicators of water in the trunk.. I then pulled out the foam inserts, still no corrosion.. I touched the insulator stuff surrounding the Central Locking Module, and it was soaked. The CLM had condensation all around where it was touching the insulator. I opened up the CLM and saw that there was corrosion on the circuit board. I attempted to clean, but only jacked it up.. What does a new CLM go for from the dealer? I am leery of purchasing used electronics off of eBay.
Thanks,
Roger

 

Around $13 brand new. They keep them next to the unicorn shoes - IF you get my meaning.
I can't believe he found one new.

DO NOT buy of eBay, you are right in what you are thinking - a wrecked Crossfire is your best source.

 

Thanks. I assumed (that's on me...) that since he posted THIS year, that it might actually be available.

 

The Mercedes version very well may be. Try a 2003 SLK320.