For all the things that I have done to my car, it ran ok but was a pig dog in any kind of corner. Have done the lowering - rubs too much - wider rims - added Koni shocks - adjusted them to death and still the car wont turn, terrible understeer pushes like a freight train.

Tried 245's in the front, went to 18" rear rims, added LSD and added many power adders to get the low end power way up, but it would not turn??????

Well this weekend I actually had oversteer, hot dam, and TAAAA DAAAAA. I had a lot of wheels and tires so I tried some of my mustang rims which are 9" wide and 17" in diameter. When I got these wheels they were mounted with some treaded tires NEW 275/40/17's that Ive had sitting around for a couple of years. Decided to try them and wow, now I can whip the rear around at will, actually got too much over steer, so on the track I dropped from 34 to 32 and believe that 28 PSIG might be the proper balance.

These tires seem to have a hard compound and their tread pattern may come into the overall deal. But they are REALLY no cost, large and seem to answer my prayers, I can actually turn and even snap a 180 instead of wallowing aroung a corner with the front tires protesting all the way.

Passing all of this along to others may be of value. Iam thinking that if I wear the 4 rear tires out, that I might consider going narrower for autocrossing to keep the ability to steer with the throttle in a controllable manner. OH YEAH now its getting to be fun.

Tires are:
Maxxis 275/40/17r 98v and yes Taiwan made them..

Happy Happy Woody

 

I'm happy to hear about your break through. What helped my car was adjusting the front koni's to almost full hard and the rear to almost full soft. The other trick that helps is to put 10 mm spacers on the front with the stock 225's.

Les

 

I have been autocrossing with the shocks on full on both ends. I ll give your settings a chance to see if I can tune the car by that approach. Thanks Woody

BTW I also had the spacers on the front wheels to get the room for the 245s..

 

Try 1/2 turn from full hard on the front and 1/2 turn from full soft on the rear. I use a bit of trail braking and the car likes it. I learned the technique at a PCA driving school where the instructor taught me how to drive a Porsche. And to my total shock, it works on a Crossfire too! If you've never tried it you may freak at first. I brake a touch early and mostly lift, just barely dragging the brakes entering the corner. Too much brake and the car won't turn but get it right and the car will enter the corner faster than finishing braking before turn in. Just something else to try if you haven't already. I assume you've tried all the logical techniques in the past but trail braking is not logical in a car that pushes. I run 3 psi more in the rear than the front. Your tires will dictate the starting pressures but the 3 psi difference works for me. If I can think of anything else I'll let you know. (for a long track I start at 25 front and 28 rear, for a short track ie autocross, starting pressures need to be higher ... Michelin Pilot Sport Cups on my car)

Les

 

What modifications did you have to perform to make the Mustang wheels fit?

 

EBAY wheel adapters from mercedes wheel pattern to the 4.5" DODGE and FORD pattern. About $100 FOR 4. Woody

 

Any concerns running the adapters while autocrossing or on the track? I have been looking for 17x9 wheels for the rear but no one seems to make them for MB's anymore. The adapters are a great option.

 

I have been doing autocrosses for over a year and a half some 100 runs without any issues. Use them on the street at times also. USE THE TORQUE WRENCH or go to helll. Woody

By the way, I get a 1" additional offset and that is about right for mustang wheels.

 

I've always heard that it's better to buy wheels that fit but I'm competing in solo 1 and participating in track days with 10 mm spacers on the front on a high speed track (130mph) with no issues at all. Woody laid it out and I'll echo his advice, use a torque wrench and torque in 3 stages.

Les