To be honest his thread is why I'm curious as to whether any gains will be seen, from Erics comments I don't exactly get the feeling that his car has turned into a fire breathing monster if you get what I mean. So I'm in two mind sets I just wonder what forcing air into a supercharger from another supercharer will do...I'm looking at the vortec V7 I think it has an internal transmission so no need to have oil lines. It's around $2k so I need to be sure I'll get gains otherwise Itl be a big waste of money and effort But I think if it works it could actually be a cheap way of getting mid to high 11s consistently

 

this along with the wavetrac should drop yointo the 11's!!
ProTorque CSD Billet Stator torque converter: Chrysler NAG1 :: Torque converters :: Transmission :: SOUTHERN HOTROD :: High Performance gear for your vehicle

 

That's for the Hemi Steve I don't think Itl work with the AMG transmission. But once either the wavertec or qualif diff comes to fruition Im thinking of buying the Eurocharged t/c. At the moment no t/c will be beneficial Itl just end up with a broken diff

 

The SRT has a 722.6 / W5A330 MB transmission which is the same as the Chrysler NAG 1, so I would think that this TC would in fact work. Any thoughts on this?

The web site is claiming 5/10's reduction in the 1/4 mile.... Wow, that is a bold statement. If true, the LSD along with this TC would definitely seem like a cost effective way to go.

 

12.1 with current mods are fairly common. add torque convertor , wavetrac and meth with robs exhaust and some decent headers and you are looking at 11.2? works for me!!! that will keep me happy till my rudy mod comes along!

 

Would this be any different to the t/c Eurocharged sell? I know Eurocharged use a standard core, but atleast we know it'l work 100%, I'll email these guys and ask if its compatible with a SRT-6/SLK32 transmission....

Man i'd be happy with mid to high 11's..it's just a nice feeling to know your car does 11's lol

EDIT*** these guys require the core aswell from what I gather, if thats the case anyone in need of a t/c may aswell get it from Eurocharged.

 

i guess for me i would use the shr t/c because they detail what they have do the unit for improvement and its cheaper. the t/c is used on a number of cars on the mopar forums but i think only 1 has the e/c unit and they give no details of the mods done. either unit claims a big gain in e/t's

 

My buddy owns a tranny business, so I'll inquire. Up til now he has told me that a new torque converter won't help...

Btw, I just want to hit 11.99 and then stay in the 11's consistently... Not just for 1 run.

 

Did he say why it wont help? Logic says it will but I've never had a t/c on any car so I cant say whether it will or not....if I knew 100% that it will reduce my q/mile times and not alter my drivability then I'd buy one straight away.

 

i only have a 5pound spring on the wastgate.. but remember it only opens with 5pounds of pressure in the intake comeing from the turbo so with the sc pulling from it the turbo is spinning enuf to make up for loss. I have another pic of a run i did today on my thread did even better and got up to 155mph

 

Hey Eric, do you definatly feel a huge power increase once the turbo comes in? I wonder if forcing air into the s/c makes its RPMs increase because if that's what it does there's no point in running a secondary forced induction rather run a stacked pulley setup. Which is also hard to accomplish without melting the s/c

 

at around 60mph i can feel the turbo kick in pushing. the best way to understand it is get in your car and do a good hard run to say 60mph now you will feel the sc pushing you into your seat all the way up to 40 then let off just a lil.. now your still being pushed but just not as hard and it gets less and less as you reach 60mph...... now think if the pushing started all over agen back like it was say at 30mph but lasts up past 130mph. it dusnt feel as strong as from a dead start type kick in the pants but you are still moveing so you find yourself holding your head forward to keep from laying all the way back in your seat from the pressure

now driveing around town under 60 there is no chang. I have it set up where i need to have the throtle position past 50% and above 18psi of boost (going to chang that to 19psi and rase my fuel pressure a lil to lower my afr just a tad more) to make my fuel regulator open up more

I dont beleave the rpms on the sc go up if thay did that would mean the sc is spining faster then the belt and i have never herd any noize or lights come on. Now as i understand it our sc have a clutch system so at crusing speed it shuts off and the air is pulled past it bye the engin that tells me there is plenty of room around the blades for the boost to squeez through without makeing it spin faster but i can see where it might take away some of the parasitic loss of hp from the engin bye releaving some of the stress on the sc needing to suck so hard. Not sure what the math is but the idea makes sense to me. I have a stock pully so the rate at witch it spins at say 100mph would be the same on a unmoded srt6 at 100mph. I also beleave the bigest gain in power/boost is from the turbo air being compressed a bit more bye the sc. But theres alot smarter ppl on here that might beable to explane that way better then I can

 

Guys, there is a slightly used Whipple 2300axo on Ebay right now for $1200 or B/O with free shipping. 2.3 liter vs. our 1.6 liter.

 

Thats a good charger but would be a nightmare to try and make it fit, the best option would be to buy a manifold from a N/A engine remove our stock supercharger and buy a vortec or rotrex or something similar...but if thats the case I'd just buy the vortec and make it power my original s/c but im still doing some research on it lol