Got broke, got bent, survived
I received this from another member: SVTCOBRA
Please tell me that when your 181mm shereed the keyway on the crank that you didnt have to get the whole crank pulled out and that all you did was relpace the keyway. i hv the 185mm and it tore the keyway off yesterday
I believe that he intended to replace the KEY, which can be done if the keyslot is not augered out or deformed to be loose.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXX
Greetings: Iam copying this for the forum, so that all can hear my actions and answer to svtcobra.
I had my engine hit high intake temp and the motor cut power, which at about 6000 revs, caused the engine to loose power suddenly and do a nose dive. The pully inerta forced the key ( shear key) to shear off and strip out a portion of the keyway on the crankshaft as the engine violently slowed. The now loose-flying pulley bent my crank, opened the oil pan with a nick, squashed the water pump, and MISSED all the radiator fins.
I used force and a dial indicator to straighten the snout of the crank, replaced the water pump, belt, and such to get the car running.
The crank was in the car and I am crazy ( only on days ending in Y) but decided to not pull the crank. I recut the keyway in the crank and widened it to allow me to use a longer FULL length key that was wider. I used carbide dremel bits to cut the keyway and a special file that I made to make a clean square key-slot in the crank. Thankfully pulley position is not important to the operation of the motor and I did not care if it was advanced or retarded a degree or two.
Please use a new crank bolt as they stretch and are torqued to allow full retention of the pulley. However the pulley was not to rotate on the crank in any case, the key was to prevent this. I have a serious key now, as my 185 mm pulley has larger than stock loading on the crank, Iam feeling covered now. THat was a year ago, and many races too.
Enjoy, Woody
Please tell me that when your 181mm shereed the keyway on the crank that you didnt have to get the whole crank pulled out and that all you did was relpace the keyway. i hv the 185mm and it tore the keyway off yesterday
I believe that he intended to replace the KEY, which can be done if the keyslot is not augered out or deformed to be loose.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XXX
Greetings: Iam copying this for the forum, so that all can hear my actions and answer to svtcobra.
I had my engine hit high intake temp and the motor cut power, which at about 6000 revs, caused the engine to loose power suddenly and do a nose dive. The pully inerta forced the key ( shear key) to shear off and strip out a portion of the keyway on the crankshaft as the engine violently slowed. The now loose-flying pulley bent my crank, opened the oil pan with a nick, squashed the water pump, and MISSED all the radiator fins.
I used force and a dial indicator to straighten the snout of the crank, replaced the water pump, belt, and such to get the car running.
The crank was in the car and I am crazy ( only on days ending in Y) but decided to not pull the crank. I recut the keyway in the crank and widened it to allow me to use a longer FULL length key that was wider. I used carbide dremel bits to cut the keyway and a special file that I made to make a clean square key-slot in the crank. Thankfully pulley position is not important to the operation of the motor and I did not care if it was advanced or retarded a degree or two.
Please use a new crank bolt as they stretch and are torqued to allow full retention of the pulley. However the pulley was not to rotate on the crank in any case, the key was to prevent this. I have a serious key now, as my 185 mm pulley has larger than stock loading on the crank, Iam feeling covered now. THat was a year ago, and many races too.
Enjoy, Woody
What? I hate trying to read what was typed on a cell phone. I'd be nervous with a jury rigged keyway. And crushed with a buggered up one. I love my lowly Code 3. May it live forever.
Les
Les
Originally Posted by velociabstract
What? I hate trying to read what was typed on a cell phone. I'd be nervous with a jury rigged keyway. And crushed with a buggered up one. I love my lowly Code 3. May it live forever.
Les
Les
LONG LIVE MY C3!!
I might as well bring this up here.......
I bought and old 181 pulley, haven't installed it yet BUT, the instructions call for heating the center hub to over 200 degrees F in an oven then sliding it on the cold crankshaft. To me this would indicate a press fit. I have not heard of anybody else even mentioning this step. I can't see how a piece of keystock could hold 8 pounds of pulley inertia.
I bought and old 181 pulley, haven't installed it yet BUT, the instructions call for heating the center hub to over 200 degrees F in an oven then sliding it on the cold crankshaft. To me this would indicate a press fit. I have not heard of anybody else even mentioning this step. I can't see how a piece of keystock could hold 8 pounds of pulley inertia.
im not exactly sure if the same values apply to the v6 pulleys but on mbworld in the s/c v8 engines the torque values are ranging from 200 ft/lbs to 275 ft/lbs plus 90*. this is a huge amount of torque that ensures the bolt will not come loose .
maybe jake can chime in as to the proper torque need for the 181,185 pulleys they sell or rob for the 178
maybe jake can chime in as to the proper torque need for the 181,185 pulleys they sell or rob for the 178
Originally Posted by tunaglove
I might as well bring this up here.......
I bought and old 181 pulley, haven't installed it yet BUT, the instructions call for heating the center hub to over 200 degrees F in an oven then sliding it on the cold crankshaft. To me this would indicate a press fit. I have not heard of anybody else even mentioning this step. I can't see how a piece of keystock could hold 8 pounds of pulley inertia.
I bought and old 181 pulley, haven't installed it yet BUT, the instructions call for heating the center hub to over 200 degrees F in an oven then sliding it on the cold crankshaft. To me this would indicate a press fit. I have not heard of anybody else even mentioning this step. I can't see how a piece of keystock could hold 8 pounds of pulley inertia.

Originally Posted by tunaglove
Well I guess I'll just have to dissagree on this one. We'll see......

Stronger keys are possible, and in some applications the key is to shear to save the machine. In our cars the key appears to me to be an alignment and securing mechanism intended to hold the pulley from slipping.. Remember that mine did its thing only when the motor went into a violent shut down as a result of high IAT onset.
THis is the reason that I did all the changes and upgrades to the cooling systems, ie the super cooler and stat redesign cause Iam driving mine hard doing autocross at full power for most of a minute-----less if I learn how to follow the course better..
I dont have any heat related issues now even in the summer races or at summit point doing 20 minute course runs. Enjoy, Woody
THis is the reason that I did all the changes and upgrades to the cooling systems, ie the super cooler and stat redesign cause Iam driving mine hard doing autocross at full power for most of a minute-----less if I learn how to follow the course better..
I dont have any heat related issues now even in the summer races or at summit point doing 20 minute course runs. Enjoy, Woody
Originally Posted by waldig
Stronger keys are possible, and in some applications the key is to shear to save the machine. In our cars the key appears to me to be an alignment and securing mechanism intended to hold the pulley from slipping.. Remember that mine did its thing only when the motor went into a violent shut down as a result of high IAT onset.
THis is the reason that I did all the changes and upgrades to the cooling systems, ie the super cooler and stat redesign cause Iam driving mine hard doing autocross at full power for most of a minute-----less if I learn how to follow the course better..
I dont have any heat related issues now even in the summer races or at summit point doing 20 minute course runs. Enjoy, Woody
THis is the reason that I did all the changes and upgrades to the cooling systems, ie the super cooler and stat redesign cause Iam driving mine hard doing autocross at full power for most of a minute-----less if I learn how to follow the course better..
I dont have any heat related issues now even in the summer races or at summit point doing 20 minute course runs. Enjoy, Woody
Originally Posted by tunaglove
I might as well bring this up here.......
I bought and old 181 pulley, haven't installed it yet BUT, the instructions call for heating the center hub to over 200 degrees F in an oven then sliding it on the cold crankshaft. To me this would indicate a press fit. I have not heard of anybody else even mentioning this step. I can't see how a piece of keystock could hold 8 pounds of pulley inertia.
I bought and old 181 pulley, haven't installed it yet BUT, the instructions call for heating the center hub to over 200 degrees F in an oven then sliding it on the cold crankshaft. To me this would indicate a press fit. I have not heard of anybody else even mentioning this step. I can't see how a piece of keystock could hold 8 pounds of pulley inertia.


The torque spec for the crank bolt is 148 pounds + 90 degrees...I used blue loctite on it also...
When you buy the 181 pulley kit from Eurocharged, does it come with a new "Key" for the keyway? Or do we get a new one at the M.B. dealer? Sorry for all the questions today.
Mine didn't come from EC.... it also didn't come with a new key... I re-used the factory key...
I may pull it off to check/replace the oil seal and if I do I will get a new key to install...
I may pull it off to check/replace the oil seal and if I do I will get a new key to install...
I got a key off the shelf and made the slot in the crank to fit it closely and opened the slot on the pulley so that it was the same width.
Our key was a semi circle and short. I have a square one that is mostly the full length of the pulley, but its not something I would do again cause of the fitting and measuring...................I bought a factory key to know the size of the stocker and went from there. Dont go there if you can and I suggest using the locktight BLUE also. Woody
Our key was a semi circle and short. I have a square one that is mostly the full length of the pulley, but its not something I would do again cause of the fitting and measuring...................I bought a factory key to know the size of the stocker and went from there. Dont go there if you can and I suggest using the locktight BLUE also. Woody
Funny, I must have got a rev1.
from the LET Motorsports Crank Pulley Install Instructions:
Could that melt the oil seal LOL??
from the LET Motorsports Crank Pulley Install Instructions:
Could that melt the oil seal LOL??
Last edited by tunaglove; Mar 21, 2011 at 10:38 PM.
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