Anyone have a link saved or know of a how-to on the supercharger/intercooler removal?

I've been searching for 2 days to no avail. I'm doing some "spring cleaning" and adding a NW oil catch can. I'd really like to pull the supercharger to clean out the intercooler. However, I can't find even one thread on-line showing how to do it. It looks pretty straight forward, but I like to get tips from others that have done it.

I finally found BrianBraves "baked potato" thread (New IC Tank Design), but it just shows the unit already removed.

 

Disreguard... I'm a moron. I just found a link to the SRT6 service manual while googling C32 supercharger...

http://www.majormotorshotrods.com/_d...ice_Manual.pdf

Anyone who doesn't have this already might want to download it and save it while it's available...

80Mb / 4348 pages!!!

 

alan i think theres a couple threads on the removal on mbworld under the c32 forum. sending it to rob for some gold teflon coating?

 

That service manual was here all the time.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post111722

 

here is the pictures from when i removed our intercooler as it was leaking and needed to be replaced...
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remove air intake
remove intake plenums
remove throttle body
remove vacuum lines
remove lower ypipe
remove fuel rail
remove IC coolant line connections
remove belt
remove bolts holding down supercharger
remove supercharger/intercooler assembly

you will need new
lower intake manifold gaskets
upper intake manifold gaskets
sc to ic gasket
benz sealant

 

I'm finishing up the install, but am blanking on the last few vacumm line connections. I am about to give up for the day... I am tired of looking at the service manual to figure out where they go. It's the hard plastic ones that go under the charger that I can't figure out. Been a long day...

As far as the gaskets... um yeah, I realized that after I was in too deep. As this is my only vehicle I couldn't wait and it had to go back together. The only new gaskets I had were the intake plenums. I'll order them and "have fun" with this again another weekend.

I can't check that link as it's a CICCI only page.

 

I'm in the same boat Buggin. I'll take pictures for the rest of us if I have to dig in myself.

Les

 

So I pulled this stuff to clean the oil out as I was installing the catch can. I was expecing the oil... however, there are several other concerns that I have now that I can see stuff:

1) The S/C pulley and clutch are quite scuffed up. This is definately why my "chirp" has been getting louder. I think I'll just clean them up with sand paper, but it doesn't look right.

2) One of my injectors has a small piece cracked off the end. It was not in the cylinder, so I'd imagine it was injested. I'm assuming I should replce the injector.

3) The rotors of the S/C have a LOT of scratches/gouges. They still spin silently, it just concerns me.

The baked potato mod came out ok. I know it's not the best route, but I had the material left over from building my intercooler reservoir... and I had the IC out, so free mod.

So sore from the 10+ hrs working on the car today. I had to get as much done today as possible because you are not supposed to do work on Sunday here in Germany... seriously, you'll get dirty looks even if you wash your car. lol

Enjoying a Chimay now...

 

"Baked Potato" mod looks good. How much material did it take to wrap everything? I am thinking of going the same route and am trying to determine how much to order.

 

a lot of work alan. i would be concerned about the rotors though. they look pretty scarred up! as for the s/c pulley i have seen the same scuffs on almost every pulley i have removed. the sandpaper works fine. i went 1500 grit on mine

 

Buggin,
Those hard clearish hoses run from the top of the supercharge, near the TB (2 black hook shaped rubber vac lines). They snake their way from there between the supercharger and intercooler and tie into another Y shaped black rubber vac line that ties into the passenger side EGR. The the other piece of clearish hose ties into the drivers side EGR.

If you need close up pics let me know and I will go snap a few.
You should have ported that baby while you were in there cleaning the gunk out of it.

Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

Ok, after a good nights sleep, I went back to the book. I know it's a rudimentry MS Paint diagram, but here is what I found (I need pictures, LOL). I'll let you know for sure after I finish and start it up...

Steve, I figured that multiple levels of sanding will be fine. One note, I think I didnt have enough shims installed. I paid a lot of attention putting the stock pulley back. I think I might have been dragging ever so slightly. After I have the bearing swapped on the C3, I will clean up the backing and try painting it to eliminate the metal-2-metal chirp on engaugement.

Issue 2) I found a guy selling NIB OEM Bosch injectors for $20/ea, so I ordered a set.

Issue 3) Since the s/c works fine right now, I won't be doing anything for the gouges. Just wish I knew how they got there...

All in all, not that hard of a job. I actually found getting the back 2 spark plug wires off was my hardest job this weekend. Well, being short made it a pain to lift the s/c off... and note to self, ensure the car is in the garage far enough to but the hood to full-up before starting to tear stuff apart! I have a stupid overhead garage door brace that kept me from going "full up"...

KrzyFast, if this wasn't my only transportation... I def would have. Maybe in the fall when I pick up a winter beater.

One Note: You should run the line shown in red between the I/C and S/C BEFORE installing everything... would be much easier, esp if you do the "baked potato mod".

 

If someone could double check that vacuum diagram I hade that would be great...

All back together, but not running right (ESP and CEL). However, since I messed with so much, incl spark plugs and temp install of OEM s/c pulley, it could be anything. ugh...

 

any chance the c3 filter allowed some debris to be ingested into the s/c? that would account for the scratches on the rotors. let us know how the 32 likes being a baked potato on the autobahn!!

 

@ Steve, I thought about that. However, the inside of the C3 filter was nice and clean... so it appears to be doing it's job fine.

If your car is nearby, can you check those vacuum lines (see last post of mine).

Thanks!

 

So went back and triple checked things... found 1 plug wire swapped and one fuel injector not plugged in all the way... That's why you don't work on your car for 11-hrs straight!

Still not running right though (CEL lit). The idle seems right, but under load it shakes. Also, when the s/c comes on, it makes a fluttering noise (like an imbalance almost). Thinking of putting the C3 back on, since that's what it's tuned for, before I go chasing down more holes... unhooked the battery again to ensure I'm starting fresh. Guess I'll need to get out my old POS-laptop and find the scanner cables.

Roadster, I think it was about 2'x2.5' (maybe less). I had to buy a big roll to get the good stuff. PM me your address and I'll send you some.

 

alan i cant see the lines all the way thru cause the s/c is in the way. from what i can see it looks like you have them in the right order. of course they could swap position under the s/c. no way for me to see

 

Your vacuum lines look correct.

 

Can you tell me if I have the little blue check Valve on the right end? I know they are in the right locations, that is the only thing I can think... and its a PITA to reroute...

I get a BAS light immediately, then CEL. Really need to dig out the code reading junk...

 

I'll go look right now...

Yes, the arrow points towards the firewall.

I would suggest checking the aluminum pipe going from the back of the snout to the purge solinoid, the two pcv lines going to the bottom of the throttle body, and also the brake booster connection.