You can pull the stat out of the housing but you have to have a bench vise and MAN up cause the springs are tight. Woody I added a 180 STANT stat to the housing in an old posting, FYI. Woody

 

in South Florida, ,with my E55 installed in my crossfire,, you could say i had the same problem, just worse,, my temp was getting to 225 after the third red light in a row, i did the (what i call the "AMX" mod meaning my nod. my temp now runs 194 tops most times it is 189 My IAT is 5 to 11 degrees above ambient what i did was, ,,,,,,PM me les

 

Just a little update. I had a track day today and did some data logging. I ran with the heat on full blast and the water temperatures peaked at 230º. Unfortunately the IAT's are still too high. They topped out at 180º. It's pretty clear that I need more radiator capacity. The I/C pump could be weak, so before seriously considering other options I'll order and instal a new pump.

Les

 

If your racing, dont skimp on a cheap "OEM" style pump....

Install one that has the ***** to keep up with you....

Meziere Enterprises

You may need to install a larger "Flow Tank" in your IC system...

 

if you are right BB,,Rudy has a tank that installs under the finder i think it is about 2 gal. and yes he wants to sell, jim

 

I decided to install my stock heat exchanger in front of the supercooler and as low as I can fit it. I made a bracket and it's screwed into the bottom of the bumper support. I still have the hoses to hook up which is going to be a bear with the proximity to the tow hook. I'll take a picture or two before I button it up for the forum. This is a free mod for me. I had the hose, clamps, factory heat exchanger etc. "in stock". Let's see if it has any effect on the IAT's. Next will be an aftermarket fan or intercooler pump. Slow but sure is my method.

Les

 

I got the job completed yesterday and went for a drive today. It appears that no matter how much capacity you have the temperatures are going to level out around 20º over ambient. It took longer to get that hot but that's where they end up. My real goal is to have them lower at the race track so I'll wait until after the next event for the final results. My I/C pump seems to be working fine so (deep breath) water injection, Jim's Hemi fan or his fog light upgrade is in order.

Les

 

Yup - sounds about right...

 

High flow fan is ordered. 3300 cfm. OK Brian, info is always good. If I don't follow sound advice (it's been given, thank you) don't read too much into it. Some changes I'm reticent to make. Also I race in 3 different organizations with different rule sets. Grasshopper is hearing though.

Les

 

you need some of this cold weather....I will ask the Good Lord to send it your way for awhile.....

 

Hey Doc, he's welcome to our cool air. Woke up to 2" of snow yesterday.

 

Sucks doesn't it. We had a dusting yesterday... Les has forgotten about winter. We need to remind him....lol

 

Snow? Cold? What language are you speaking anyway. Yeti speak to me!

Les

 

Les, we are only here to help...

 

Could the super cooler be blocking too much air to the radiator? Maybe blocking the whole radiator with the condensor and super cooler is too much for road racing. One option might be to use the SL55 heat exchanger in a isolated coolant set up and mount two more electric fans on the condensor above the SL55 heat exhanger.

 

Cliff notes:

On the street or in traffic the supercooler adds 4 or 5º to the engine coolant temperature. No problem. My street/traffic ECT temperatures are 204º and IAT's 20º over ambiant. On the track I've seen 245º and 180º. Running the heater on high brings down the ECT's to a maximum of 230º but the IAT's stay the same. If I back way off for 2 laps (2 1/2 miles approx) the temperatures drop back to 212º and 125º. Thats in about 3 minutes time. Let's add in all the engine coolant has to cool. Oil, transmission, engine and the fact that I'm putting down 50 HP more than my car showed stock and it's pretty easy to figure out. I've run with the grills on and off, no difference. With the engine tray on and off, more mph on the straight with it on but no difference in the temperatures. I've run with the weather strip removed at the rear of the hood, no difference except lots more dirt ends up on top of the motor. I built a scoop for the supercooler to funnel more air, no difference. I'm thinking of sealing the side gaps between the supercooler and radiator to see what happens. The radiator has distilled water and 2 bottles of water wetter. The supercharger circuit has distilled water and a bottle of chill charger. Oh, 180º thermostat for Brian.

Rob and lot's of forum members think a high flow fan is my solution. I think the solution is to separate the oil and transmission from the engine cooling system but I'm not willing to change them just yet. My next solution and the one I believe is best is put in a radiator with much more volume. It's looking like a custom job so I'm hesitant. I expect the high flow fan and additional H/E will help and would be thrilled if it solved my problem. I have the headers on order, plan on adding Rob's manifolds and possibly some more suspension work. Until I can get rid of the heat I won't up the power even if I have the parts in the closet. This has been creeping up as I increased power and now I have no choice but to deal with it or my engine or transmission won't last. Well, IMO anyway. I figure if the water is at 245º the oil must be at º? So I change it around every 2000 miles for piece of mind. I've been meaning to order the correct transmission fluid and change it too, just in case.

Les

 

Les, I just read through all your history here.... South Texas can have smoe pretty warm summers as you experience.

Do you have any updates or solutions to the heat? Did you seal the gap between the supercooler and the radiator? 2nd heat exchanger installed? Hope I'm not missing another thread you started for this info.

 

I installed a high speed fan and it didn't work. I put baffling in the front fascia to force more air through the radiator and it helped a few degrees but not enough. I've run with 2 heat exchangers and the maximum IAT's stay the same. It takes a longer to warm up but they settle out at more or less the same temperature with 1 or 2 heat exchangers. I just installed water injection. It's going to be a while before I can verify what it does to the temperatures.

Les

 

Les, you may want to try the amx/needswings heat exchanger behind the fog light and connect to to the engine water,, Rob is working on a price for the two HE like he supplied me.

they can be used as Heat exchangers or extra radiators, just change the plumbing ,,you can have one HE and one to the radiator, if that works jim

 

YOu might be running around in circles trying to get the iat down, when there is only 1% gain to be had for each 10 degrees the inlet air temp is reduced. It seems that you have done most of the cooling changes available, might be that your hitting a limit of what you have, without changing a radiator or adding more coolers out of the path of the radiator. Have you checked into the iat and water temps of NASCAR or road racing to see what the PRO's with big pockets can do - or live with?? Woody