Let's start with what's not my problem. On the street the temperatures run around 204º. This is with the PTE 180º thermostat and -10C mod that came with my tune from Eurocharged. It takes a while to get that warm but if I'm in traffic that's where they end up and stay. Going up the mountains to get to the race track I see a maximum of 212º. Coming down the other side (coasting) they drop to 170. My IAT's stay around 20º over ambient on the street no matter how I drive and that includes going up the mountain. It's strange but with the heat in Puerto Rico I've seen IAT's of 120º with water temps of 180º. My problem is on the race track. After racing for about 10 minutes (I'm a madman in case you didn't know) the water reaches 245º which scares the bejesus out of me. If I back off the temperatures drop fast. I don't think I have a water pump problem but a radiator capacity problem. (I'm running 2 gallons of distilled water, 2 bottles of water wetter and the rest factory fill) I've considered high flow fans, adding an after market transmission cooler to lessen the burden on the radiator, and a larger radiator. Until I find a way to lower the water temperatures I cannot add more power ..... which I want sooner than later. The easiest and most effective solution would be a higher capacity radiator. Who out there in Crossfire land knows of a radiator that would fit and holds more fluid? Speedriven conversion owners, what fits? What works for you? I need a solution. If you can help me I'll be in your debt.

Les

 

I wouldn't rule out the water pump Les...you seem to be fine on all the other driving. Extra fan would help some. What type of grille do you have, or do you take it off to run...the stock grille is restrictive if you don't cut the tabs off the fins so air can flow straight to the radiator. I have just done a separation kit, and really haven't had problems with cooling, although lowering the temps is beneficial. Now, I am not ***** to the wall like you, although at the Dragon, I gave the car a good workout, and my temps stayed near the line...temps were 30 degress cooler than you though...lol.... water pumps can get tired before they finally fail, belt slippage can add to this as well...good luck either way, car looks fantastic btw...

 

I've run with the grill on and off with no noticeable difference. I run with the air and heat off. The belly pan is in the closet. I built a lexan panel to force more air through the radiator. I run with the weatherstrip at the rear of the hood off. I reach 140 mph on the higher speed track so I'm WOT for extended periods and my IAT's and water temperatures peak at 140 mph and start to cool under braking. Does anyone know how many BTU's our radiators are rated at?

If I don't have a solution before the next track day I'll leave the transmission in drive (will run cooler that way) and I'll run with the heater on high to see if it helps. If it lowers the water temperature significantly ...........

Les

 

Just me but consider reducing the antifreeze percentage to like 30% or Id go to all water and water pump lubricant and rust inhibitor. Antifreeeze has lousy specific heat and only makes use of about 60% of the radiator due to this factor. Water has a SH of 1.0 and is the best if not inhibited by additives, steel has a SH of about 0.12 !!!! some 8 times less than water. I did a posting long ago about this and reduced my % to the minimum for va weather, I never need -0 temp protection.

At 140 you fan pails in comparison to the task of cooling, thankfully the fan cant add to the about 165 feet per second air flow thru the radiator. Woody

 

I think I'm at around 20% antifreeze Woody. I drained 2 gallons out + o -, put in 2 bottles of water wetter and 2 gallons of distilled water. Still having the same problem. It gets hotter since my tune .... more timing I guess. Keep on making suggestions. I'm mulling over all the options and possibilities.

Les

 

ok i have a question. why does everyone relate their iat temps to the ambiant temp? my datalogs show iat temps run 100* cooler than engine temps consistently no matter the outside temps. colder ambiant and iats run even colder. so when my engine runs 200* my iats run 100*. i havent seen any temps higher than 207* in 100* heat under wot. thru the gtg weekend my temps ran 200 to 205 while in 3 and 4th gear under extended high rpm runs

 

Because it confuses you! In normal or spirited driving my water temperatures are normal.

Les

 

I like your idea of a bigger/better flowing radiator, and I like Woody's suggestion of all water w/ just lube/rust inhibitor. Perhaps flow test your system/water pump. Did you ask Jerry @ EC about your overheating? And lastly, how about adding Methanol/Water Injection.

 

140mph = 205.33ft/sec.
Did you use some factor for turbulence or something.
At that speed the fan, rad and grille etc. acts as a baffle, a good thing as it cuts down air under the car.

 

FYI your car is throwing off about 75% of the power as heat to the 25% actually that goes to the rear wheels. I.E. 400HP @ flywheel and then sent to the rear tires (bout 350) means your burning way over 1000 HP worth of additional heat producing gasoline, to produce this power. A horse power is equivalent to 746 watts or about 2100 btus, so the radiator is getting rid of over 1-2 million btus per hour. Phew


Your home gas furnace has between 60,000 to 100,000 btus output for a comparison. Heat pump? well most of them are between 24,000 and 48,000 btus for a regular home.

Woody

 

I always heard that less than 20% of the power in fuel was usable in the internal combustion engine and available at the flywheel and even that depended on the engine efficiency.
Also the faster you go the more you waste due to aerodynamics.
Buy ten gallons and throw away eight at least.
We just have to do better somehow.

 

Double check when your fan comes on. Even after the EC tune my fan comes on at 200F, off at 197F.

 

Stewart Components - High Performance Automotive Cooling

 

140mph is not an area I know much about but I will through two thoughts in:
Could the fan be reducing the air flow through the radiator?
Air not getting out from under the hood?

 

Running mostly distilled water .... check!
Water wetter ........................... check!
Radiator clean .......................... check!
Verify fans working ................... check!
Verify thermostat ..................... check!
Belly pan removed..................... check!
Rear engine compartment seal removed ........ check!

I'm left with a failing water pump or insufficient radiator capacity for my current horsepower.

I've asked Rob about methanol injection and he told me it wouldn't help with my problem.

So, out of all the water pumps out there, which one is best. I've found some cheap ones (GMB, Airtex) Bosch one, expensive ones (Graf, Laso, Saleri)

Les

 

Is it possible to run an oil cooler on a SRT-6?

 

you already have one. look were the filter is at

 

Just the old dog here Les...but at those speeds, you are getting plenty of air flow through the radiator....sooooooooooo, either the pump is starting to fail with all those runs and rpms you have put it through, or belt is slipping, which should show up on your zeitronics....losing boost... but, you will rise a needle to two needle widths on the guage on hard running... I know it much hotter down there, but, that is normal... You aren't overheating, correct?
While attending the Woodward meet, I was at the presentation from the Chrysler engineers that headed up the XF build. The pan does, and I said does have some areodynamics bene's, so, I am putting mine back on...just info...

 

Les, if you have a 180F thermostat and your normal driving in traffic temp is around 200F, then your modded ECU tuned fan should be running like hell trying to get your car back to 180F. Is this the case?

Also those cheap Ebay $50 water pumps will not fit your SRT6, different casting around the alternator. (I tried)

 

If your not blowing water you might just live with it as any changes are going to be cubic money. My hood promotes more cooling as there is more area to vent the radiator and it works for me. Woody