My car doesn't always start. I have power, but the engine won't turn over. Sometimes the traction control lights stays on and then it won't shift into gear. Can anyone help because the dealership doesn't seem to know what is wrong.

 

Check your relay control module mine went bad had to buy a new one also do a search they have a way to repair them if your handy and make sure your negative ground isn't coroded on your battery It can cause lots of problems too

 

Welcome to the Forum. You didn't have to wait till you had a problem to join us!

Checkout the thread in my signature below titled "RCM Repair".
Sounds like it's your problem if you have power and the car will not turn over/start.

Let us know if it works for you and, DON'T BE A STRANGER to the site!

 

I'm afraid these symptoms are a bit confusing.

Tell us what happens when it will not start and what happens when it will start. Give as much detail as you can and not lump all the symptoms together as you did above.

Also give details of your car, SRT or not, manual or auto. etc.
The more details the better for a diagnosis, otherwise you will get generic diagnoses which may or may not be accurate for your situation.

 

Sometimes my car will start without any problems. Sometimes when I turn the key, the power and all lights will come on but the car will not turn over. Sometimes there is a clicking sound. Sometimes after it does turn over the traction light will stay on and the car will not slip into gear, it is stuck in park, so I turn it off and just keep restarting it until it goes into gear. Sometimes I do not have any trouble at all. This is a 2005 SRT6. Automatic transmission. Someone has said that it could be the electronic control unit. I drove it last month without a single issue. Now when I start the car, it may take 6-8-10 tries to turn it over. Eventually it will start, but the lights come on, the engine just won't turn over.

 

First thing to check is the age and condition of the battery,
These cars LOVE good batteries, and pitch a hissy-fit with an old one ( they are extremely voltage / amperage sensitive )

 

The first thing that comes to my mind is that the interlock on the transmission that ensures that the car is in Park when started is faulty or not adjusted correctly. The brake pedal switch will release this interlock when the brake is depressed to put the car into gear.
If this transmission interlock is at fault it may not let the starter operate because it does not know if the car is in Park. If it senses the car is in park and lets the starter work then the signal from the brake switch may not work and release it.

So my first suggestion is that the transmission interlock may be faulty or not adjusted correctly.

I'm sure others more knowledgeable than I may have other ideas, I would think that it is not a battery problem or the relay control unit. It possibly could be a poor grounding problem somewhere though, but not likely with your symptoms.

 

CAR WOULDN'T START. Ok guys and gals....I had the same issue most of you had. I searched the internet and the forum and found the normal things to check. Here was my scenario:

1. Car ran and drove fine.
2. Wife took car to store (It's her car...I barely fit in it!)...died on way. After 20 minutes started got it home 2 miles away.
3. That evening went to start it for a check. Car would not even spin over. Like many of you say, "Like the battery was removed BUT ALL LIGHTS and OPTIONS function."
3a. Thought it might be the SKREEM unit (key fob control) but my doors locked/unlocked, alarm functioned with the remote. So, I ruled that out.
4. Decided after reading many posts that it was probably the Crank Position Sensor. I replaced it.
5. WRONG in my case. Should have known because the car wouldn't even turn over. In order for the issue to be the CPS, the car would spin over but not fire. Now have a spare for when THIS really goes out.
6. Decided to pull out the Relay Control Module as many have tried. BUT, my solders looked good. I re-soldered anyway. This did not fix it.

So, long story short, I put the RCM back in BUT with the black plastic cover off. I had my friend try to start it. NO START. BUT, we see the issue. The ignition relay (middle relay of 5 under this cover) would not engage. We bypassed it with a lead and BAM! The car started. We tested every voltage, ground, and resistance. It seemed fine but the coil would not engage the relay....so no start.

After much searching, I found a site that carried the RCM...AND....for $125 new (half of Mercedes or parts house cost) and it arrived as an OEM Mercedes part that perfectly matched my original in two days.

I ordered one and it arrived today, simply plugged it in and the car started immediately.

I hope this helps you guys with the similar problem. This was recalled on the CLK/SLK platform but Chrysler decided not to do the recall.

Site: More Information for AIRTEX / WELLS 1R2032
Order page: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,3380

GET THE AIRTEX. ITS OEM.

This is the AIRTEX part on the ROCKAUTO.COM site. Like I said, it arrived as the MB original part.

Joe D.

 

Coulda fixed it for ya for $15. 5 for the relay, 5 for return shipping and 5 for a beer.

Just sayin'.

BTW, this problem is starting to become common.

 

The relay is soldered to the unit. Are you saying you have a solderable relay? That seems pretty hard to fully remove from maybe 8 solder points and replace. I am willing to fix my other though and resell it. Let me know.

Follow up to issue:

So, I replaced the RCM that day. Today, first time, my wife drove it to same store. GUESS WHAT....exact same place the car fails (within 50 yards of first cutoff before RCM).

She calls me and says, "Car is dead same place but this time, it cranks, just won't start!!!"

Anyone wanna guess??? Let me save you the trouble...

In my previous post, I told you the forum lead me towards the CPS. So, I replaced it....didn't fix and finally found it to be the RCM....

Today, THE NEW AFTERMARKET CPS SENSOR failed after 1 mile of use.

So, I raced over with the old sensor that I had removed and replaced it in less than 5 minutes. CAR RAN!!!!

So, I encountered two of the three issues in the forum. (the other being the SKREEM unit but mine is ok)

Moral of the story and posted by someone previously. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET CPS SENSOR! Rockauto.com also sells the OEM unit like the RCM I told you about.

SUMMARY: If car won't turn over...it's the Relay Control Module. If car turns over but won't crank, it's the Crank Position Sensor. If car won't start AND KEY FOB isn't activating alarm and doors, most likely it is the SKREEM remote module and it is behind the dash panel. The battery being dead in the remote will not stop the car from starting.

I hope this helps someone as much as the past discussions helped me. I just started in the wrong place and then ended up there after the NEW sensor failed.

Joe D.

 

Thanks Joe, good summary.

 

Another thing to check when you xfire won't start is the gear shift linkage/rod. It's the rod that connects your transmission to the shift handle. The rod is secured to the bottom of the shifter handle under the car with an hex(allen) screw. Sometimes, especially if the car was hit in an accident, the rod would slip resulting in your gear not being in park or neutral when you think (or the instrument cluster indicates) it is. Obviously you can't start your car when tranny is in gear.

 

I know this post is old, but Judy did new RCM fix your problem? I have the exact same issues.

 

nataliexfire05 check the stickies in the TSB and How To's..... https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post430634

 

It looks like eventually this is going to happen to a Crossfire. Here's my observations and solution:
1. My Crossfire stalled in my driveway, after driving, for no apparent reason. I tried to restart it and is acted as it were out of gas. Nothing. This continued to get worse over a period of couple weeks. The car would stall when it reached operating level. It stalled at stop lights and I would be stuck for about 10 minutes waving people around me. What the Yuck.
2. I did my home work on the Crossfire Forum and decided it was definitely the Crankshaft Position Sensor. There apparently is at least one other reason for stalling out, but it made more sense to me that this was the CPS.
3. I watched this video: You can see where the CPS is located and how to change it.
4. Get the tool you need: : Torx #8 External socket and extensions. I used two flexible extensions which worked nicely.
5. Get the Bosch CPS. It's part #0261210170. It has expanded heat range and a life time guarantee. A lower operating heat range may be why some CPS's manufactured by other companies may not work as well.
6. You may come across people who say to wrap the new CPS with a heat insulation cloth. This is a waste of time because the heat which damages the sensor is deep in the engine block. It is not caused by the ambient heat around the engine.

After changing the CPS my Crossfire ran perfect again. I didn't even get dirty changing it. Yes, I did have to wash my hands when I was done. It makes my wife happy.