Hello Everyone,

My 05 SRT6 gave me a surprise today while destroying a newer Boxter off the line. The car pulled hard from first but instead of changing to second gear, it seemed to "pop" into neutral until the rev limiter caught it. I backed off the throttle and it picked up second shortly after. This is the third time it has done this and is now concerning me. I have only noticed this 2 times before over the last two years. The transmission continues to operate smoothly under normal driving circumstances. No noise, codes, leaks, smells or anything unusual.

I have read similar threads but nothing quite like my situation. I would really appreciate any feedback that any of you knowledgeable members may have.

I have already checked the transmission fluid, it's fine and at the appropriate level. I have also checked the motor and transmission mounts. No issues. May car has 50K miles and has been VERY well maintained. No mods, the car is stock. The temp today was in the low 70's the car was running at normal temps.

Mopar Day is this weekend at the local track and I was going to race but not till get this sorted out. It would really SUCK to miss my first set of races this year....

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

 

How did you dheck the transmission fluid ?
There's a special chart, with level v temp that you have to use.
My coupe has done this once, and it was due to low fluid level, caused by the leaking connector plug. most likely your fluid level is low...............

 

What about belt slippage? Did you see the actual N in the display or did it just feel it went into "do nothing" mode?

 

Thanks for the response. Good question. I just got the car back from the dealer for a (free) oil change. They told me they inspected all fluids including the trans fluid and it was fine. Now I am wondering... I'll get underneath and look closer. Thanks

 

Another good question, I did not notice the gear indicator showing the "N" position when it reved up, I was not paying attention to it. It was in auto mode and without physically moving the shifter into the "N" position, I don't think it can do that? Thank you for your comments, I would not have thought of that!

 

The transmission dip stick tub has a red tab that breaks when you remove it. If your tranny was checked your dip stick cover would reveal this.

FYI these cars don't have a traditional dipstick in the transmission so the likely hood that they check "all" fluids is probably unlikely. The techs use a dipstick and they compare that to what the fluid temp is via the OBD port in order to tell if the fluid is at the correct level.

Not to scare you but check your radiator coolant reservoir for signs of oil and water mixing. There's a rare chance that coolant and tranny fluid could be mixing (faulty radiator w/built in tranny cooler).

 

Many Chrysler dealers have no clue about these cars. Checking the trans fluid is fairly involved, and requires removing a tamper proof cap, and checking the temp of the trans, the level of the fluid, and comparing them on a chart. I doubt that they would go to all that bother for a free oil change.
A common issue with these trans is going into neutral, when pushed hard IF the fluid level is low.
i would suspect that is the case, and get it checked by a competent independent Benz mechanic.
as for belts slipping ...........i'm not aware of any belts in the transmission anywhere ??????

 

Not to totally hijack this thread, but I have had something similar happen...I sometimes coast to a stop, then put the car back in drive if the light changes...sometimes, the car, once I go back to Drive, won't go into gear unless I let the car go back to idle...

 

If you are coasting to a stop, isn't the engine already at idle?

 

If the transmission plug is old stile replace it.

 

My '05 SRT did this to me when I was using the auto-stick and when it was in full automatic. My car has 86K on it so I took it to the dealer to have it checked. They actually did find a code in the computer of "improper gear ratio" which drove them to want to drop the transmission pan as a precaution to check for metal shavings. None were found, but since we were that far, and the car had over 80K, a transmission fluid change was in order. IF you think you need to go that route, ask the service shop to "back flush" the transmission so they can get all the fluid out of the torque convertor as well (if your convertor doesn't have a drain plug, which it probably doesn't). Ran me about $500 once all the smoke cleared.

Moving forward, after having the service done, I was ready to start driving it "spiritedly" again and I had what I thought was the same thing happening - getting on it and it feels like you loose all forward momentum - like the transmission is slipping. What I found was happening (after reading what the gurus here had to say) was the supercharger was cutting out due to the intercooler pump being bad. Makes me wonder if that's what was happening BEFORE I had the transmission flushed and I just didn't know what I was looking for or feeling when I was getting on it. Didn't hurt having the fluid flush (except in the wallet) but the cooler pump came in today and will be installed this weekend. Then we'll see if she still wants to fall on her face when I ask her to "put up or shut up".

Not much help here, just my two cents

RL67037

 

I have just bought my SLK32 a cuple of weeks ago and noticed - not so much a Neutral event - but it isnt exactly smooth from 1-2.
It as also leaking from the connector.
I have a pan kit and connector ready to go next week for a change.

Anyway
Checked the fluid last night, "black locking tab" - indicating either was original (80k miles) or MB/dealer has serviced it - dont think so.
I used a 30" piece of curtain wire and pushed it down through the twists. Hit the bottom, pulled it out.My temp was 50deg from a laser thermometer on the pan. Level came up at 50mm - just about right (see picture), but will do a more precise check in the AM.
I was hoping it was lower - hence explaining the slip/catchup clunk I'm noticing, but alas....may just come down to the 10year old oil and connector leak just droping that little bit

Then again there are a few other issues with these trannys - one step at a time.

 

Not from, let's say, 50 miles an hour...once I put it in neutral, then, let's say, we're still doing 30 mph, it won't go back into gear...maybe I'm not stating it exactly right...

 

Having had both the intercooler pump fail AND the neutral event happen, I can assure you, it's two totally different events.
The 'neutral' effect happens when you are really getting on it, and the supercharger is most definately working, then all of a sudden lack of forward progress happens, but you can still rev the motor, and the transmission is actually in a false (?) neutral, till you slow, and then suddenly it picks up drive again
The IC pump feels like the car is pulling like a two cylinder ...........

 

I've experienced the "neutral" effect a couple of times as well. That, and another where I get on it
going around a corner (left turn at a light), and th car gets "stuck" in 2nd gear. In those cases, merely
stopping and using the gear selector is not enough to correct. At those times, it is necessary to turn
the car off and then restart. Change of gears is again possible after that. I hate both of these issues
and am glad they occur rarely.

I can't prove it, but I've figured the TCU is getting confused.

 

My car experienced the "neutral' thing a couple times but never did it again after the Eurocharged ECU tune. I thought that maybe the torque limits were increased or removed by the tune??

 

Hello Everyone!

First of all I would like to thank you all for your thoughts and comments. I knew I asked the question in the RIGHT forum! I am glad I am not alone.


Some additional info about the car that may be helpful...

• IC pump replaced about 2K miles ago, Plenty of power! ;) BTW, that was a very easy repair to do myself. I like to do all of my repairs unless covered by warranty.
• Transmission cover broken but by ME when I was messing with it about 3 years ago. I never did open the top and I cannot prove they did either.
• My warranty has recently expired so I am on my own and my budget is tight. I love to work on my car and have gotten most repair info from this forum. You guys ROCK!! Great info! Thanks.
• Does anyone know where to get the transmission fluid or what type it takes? If that's the problem - I will check myself.

Now, about my d-bag "5 star" Chrysler dealership.. All I can really say is PATHETIC. I could not be any more dissatisfied with their service department. Point being: there is a overwhelming lack of knowledge the service techs have on these cars (at least at this dealership) if you have an SRT6 it gets even worse... I only let them do warranty work and always ask for the replaced parts back to insure they even did the work.I hope everyone does the same as I like to keep them honest....

I will call the dealership back and ask HOW they checked the transmission fluid. I can't wait to hear what they say. The free oil change was to keep me as a customer after completely messing up an alignment they did on my crossfire that took two weeks because they did not have the "special alignment tool" they needed to align an SRT6. Sad.....I also got the alignment for free with 3 additional complimentary oil changes.

I absolutely LOVE my SRT6 and it is one of the best cars I have had. I am sure many of you other owners will agree. Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it!

 

Doesn't sound like that much of a "dbag" 5* dealer. Mine has one dedicated SRT tech. They're not perfect...they see our cars occassionally. Now, they are 7 years old...unique models. They kept my graphite a week and a half (approx.), just getting the right diff because Diam/Chrys boxed all that sh*t up in haste after the corp. sale. But, they got it right and the car performs flawlessly (had all that due to an uncommon harmonic isssue.) I decided to take the graphite all the way round trip from Fresno to Riverside last weekend (I know, what what wild hair possessed me to do that). Sucka performed flawlessly. And I rarely drive these. Take your 3 free on the pricey dealer oil changes and be happy with it. Alignment...never had a problem. My michelins look perfect from every angle...now about those rotex golds...lol.

 

Take it mercedes and see if they can help. Especially with the Tranny - its a stock 722.6 box in several of their cars and the issues would be well known as well as the fixes. I guarantee they would see half a dozen of these trannys for service a month.
To be safe though - I would know as much about the problem as possible so you can talk turkey with the techs. Many reports of them ...change this....change that...of course they are not paying. They might do a little more research and thinking if they had to pay for "change this" 's that didnt work. But that aint the way it is.
A bit like your doctor....."hmmm...lets see now".

As for fluid/parts, every town has one - an indie Mercedes mechanic - they worked for meceredes for 10 years and then went out on their own and do mainly mercedes.
I always
1) use my indie mercedes specialist and then
2) often double check what he has told me against either this forum or the benzworld slk forum. There's also slkworld. Just in case he's too entrenched in his own world - they can be a little like that (well mine can) since they arent in the MB training/education loop so much and old school, independent and not so open to open to new ideas - particularly ones that may challenge their own view.

look here,
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...ion-flush.html
there is a tranny oil change procedure. Its a 1hr procedure for the "basically compentent" and apart from ATFluid, will set you back about $20 for gasket and filter kit....oh and $1.70 for 3 foot of that stretchy curtain wire*. I'm hoping it may fix some of my issues. MB spec ATF will be about $100 - dont use anything else. Tranny's are all about friction, slip and viscoisty and hence the properties of a particular ATF are paramount. I'll see if I can get a PN code - chasing the issue myself.

*SImply run the flexy curtain wire down the dipstick tube until you are sure it hits the bottom of the tranny sump and oila! Careful - it may catch halfway down - give it a jiggle. Dont worry so much about the locking tab - the cap will stay on the O-ring regardless of the locking tab (for years reportedly).

 

Has anyone though its up against the rev-limiter or fuel cutoff? This has happened to me a couple of times. Its not the trans, but a rev-limiter. Just not shifting fast enough is all.