VRP Headers
OK so money's changed hands and now all I gotta do is wait.
Wavetrack is also in the post
Code3 is on the bench ready to go.
Still trying to decide on SL55 intake ($500 landed) v NW DCAI ($1000)
I know the car well enuf now to appreciate changes in performance/nuiances.
Target is to get into the mid 12's on street tires - just roll up and do it and leave - no fancy stuff
Now - CKovach (selling the headers) tells me to fit them I need to undo the engine mounts and lift the engine. If anyone's done this - Id like to know as I will be DIY'ing.
I figured it will be a good time to change the engine mounts if that's easy to do whilst I'm in there. I understand they do fail/leak after 10yrs - ie: about now.
Wavetrack is also in the post
Code3 is on the bench ready to go.
Still trying to decide on SL55 intake ($500 landed) v NW DCAI ($1000)
I know the car well enuf now to appreciate changes in performance/nuiances.
Target is to get into the mid 12's on street tires - just roll up and do it and leave - no fancy stuff
Now - CKovach (selling the headers) tells me to fit them I need to undo the engine mounts and lift the engine. If anyone's done this - Id like to know as I will be DIY'ing.
I figured it will be a good time to change the engine mounts if that's easy to do whilst I'm in there. I understand they do fail/leak after 10yrs - ie: about now.
Hahaha
my 2nd username
The engine is ok to pull up several inches if you remove the 2 long bolts in the bottom of the motor mounts and remove the trans positioning bolts to allow the engine to be lifted I would also make sure to have the fan out and something between the front of the engine and the radiator. Changing the motor mounts themselves is a whole other matter with the engine still in the car as it is such a tight squeeze in there. If you don't need to change them I wouldn't and just cable or chain the engine down. I have broken several motor mounts and finally just cabled mine down .......works better and no more broken mounts.
Mid 12's on street tires. Check out my roadster. Low 12's on street tires...no headers needed. You are in for a lot of work my friend for not very much HP... Good luck with your mods, but a good CAI, a pulley, and a tune will net you mid 12's....
I have a set of these headers if anyone is interested. In my case they made contact in several places which is why they are no longer installed.
I am happy to shoot or post pictures if anyone is interested.
I am happy to shoot or post pictures if anyone is interested.
So you couldnt mod them and get them to fit...?
The ones I bought are hopefully here this week and I'm expecting a slightly different note and maybe 10-15whp
Must say - wasnt particularly fussed about the weld finish - must have been one of Vadim's bad onday jobs. Price wasnt "too" bad though.
Might wait a bit before fitting though - see thread on "puff of smoke....."
The ones I bought are hopefully here this week and I'm expecting a slightly different note and maybe 10-15whp
Must say - wasnt particularly fussed about the weld finish - must have been one of Vadim's bad onday jobs. Price wasnt "too" bad though.
Might wait a bit before fitting though - see thread on "puff of smoke....."
And this is because.....they aint gonna fit? Or make it easier if they gotta be swapped out again...?
I will take pictures and post them. Then if anyone is interested make me an offer.
to keep the engine from torqueing over and breaking the headers. dont take this the wrong way but this has been tried long ago and i warned you in the 2nd post
Our engines have a lot of torque rotation. The VRP headers are a tight squeeze, but according to Vadim they will fit without interference (on the '32). I know some have reported installation conflicts regardless. A torque damper will limit rotation of the engine around the crank so the headers don't bump their surroundings. It's not a bad idea even without rotational interference IMO as others have attested on this forum.
ckovach - I'd be interested to know, did you ever try (or have someone try) to fit these and fail?....or never try at all.....
you probably did your research at the time....
Of course I'm making the assumption here...that the ones I'm talking about are the ones I bought from you.
just thought I'd check before (if lazy) I walk up to a muffler shop and say..."yeh...no worries mate - drop in replacement....just be careful - pay you $200".
you probably did your research at the time....
Of course I'm making the assumption here...that the ones I'm talking about are the ones I bought from you.
just thought I'd check before (if lazy) I walk up to a muffler shop and say..."yeh...no worries mate - drop in replacement....just be careful - pay you $200".
ckovach - I'd be interested to know, did you ever try (or have someone try) to fit these and fail?....or never try at all.....
you probably did your research at the time....
Of course I'm making the assumption here...that the ones I'm talking about are the ones I bought from you.
just thought I'd check before (if lazy) I walk up to a muffler shop and say..."yeh...no worries mate - drop in replacement....just be careful - pay you $200".
you probably did your research at the time....
Of course I'm making the assumption here...that the ones I'm talking about are the ones I bought from you.
just thought I'd check before (if lazy) I walk up to a muffler shop and say..."yeh...no worries mate - drop in replacement....just be careful - pay you $200".




Silverarrow ??????