Here is the dealio...

Been on these forums back since I had my Limited in 2007, and I definitely know how to use the search function and, therefore, know all about the IC Pump replacement for the SRT-6.

To set the stage a bit, bought my SRT-6 from a forum member in October 2011, noticed the IC Pump shutting off after prolonged driving in mid-November, and replaced the Bosch OEM IC Pump with a Johnson CM30 at the end of November. Has worked like a charm since, well until today.

Fiance and I made a day trip to Annapolis for my mom's birthday where we were taking a ferry to St. Michaels for the day. Decided to take the SRT-6 on the approx. 60 mile (one way) trip. A couple things to note here, I haven't actually driven my SRT-6 on a long continuous drive in quite some time. It mainly ferries me to and from work (only a few miles) and around town on the weekends. We take my fiance's Jetta on trips and the Jeep serves as bad weather duty vehicle. Another thing to note, early on in the trip I am going about 70mph on 495 north into Maryland where they are doing roadwork and the pavement is different "heights" so to speak. We approach a "raised" portion of the asphalt, where the rough pavement connects to the smooth pavement - BAM! So much for the VDOT/MDOT workers giving a damn about low clearance vehicles. They had left probably a 2-3 inch differential in the cement with not more than 5 inches of incline, meaning its basically like running over a small curb at 70 mph. I was livid... kept my cool and the car seemed fine so we drove on. I did seem to grimace at every divet and bump we encountered after that, however.

The car was great for the rest of the trip, no problems, supercharger engaging as it is supposed to - all is well. Leave the car in a covered spot in a parking garage around 9:45AM. We don't get back to the car until this evening around 7:30PM. As I exit the parking garage, I immediately notice complete lack of throttle response and no supercharger engaging - signs of the IC pump failing. "Great" I think, so I pull over about a mile down the road, kill the engine, do a throttle reset. Restart the engine, no good, and this is when I notice the CEL is on for the first time.

At this point I think... I am telling myself it is just the IC pump and we can hobble home without it. But because last time the IC pump started failing there was no CEL, I am paranoid it could be something else. So I pull of Route 50 in Maryland and check the coolant levels, check the oil level, check the IC Pump (for leaks or other signs) - but all looks good. We drive home in "limp" mode (all 60 miles), and make it safe and sound thankfully. I will just give a thanks to German engineers here - thank you for designing a safeguard like this that protects the engine from catastrophic failure and actually allows the vehicle to drive at highway speeds.

Here is the twist, which should come no surprise to those familiar with the finicky IC pumps starting to fail: after we got home I had to drop the fiance off to pick up something for her friend whose house we were running over to. I kill the engine for about 5 minutes while waiting for her. When I turn it back on - sure enough - the IC pump is working and the supercharger is engaging like a charm. Car is 100% again.

Do you think this Johnson pump is already on its way out? I bought the pump from a forum member who said it was a spare he had (it came with the box and manual - it was unused). I have read over on mbworld of guys replacing their Johnson pumps and having them fail only less than a year later.

Do you think I should try replacing the RCM first instead?

Worth noting, I did install the sprintbooster (for the Limited) about 4 months ago.

Thank you in advance SRT gurus.

 

Definitely a strange symptom, I've never heard of a I/C pump throwing a CEL... but then again, mine came with a CM30.

You say you've been driving with the CM30 for about ten months... did you by chance happen to separate the I/C coolant from the main coolant reservoir? If not, you're running a high-pressure system like I was, and that can potentially cause a premature failure on the intercooler... as in, a leak.

My car started running like crap out of the blue in late July... But the problem was very hit and miss. Would idle rough every 9 out of 10 starts. Once it was idling fine, you could drive the ***** off it and nothing went wrong. Next crank, rough idle. Eventually I got a CEL and took it to the shop... P0105 code (MAP sensor).

If you can limp the car to Auto Zone, see if they can read the code for you. If you get a P0105 (or similar), it's likely the intercooler leaking. When the intercooler leaks, the MAP sensor and IAT sensor are COVERED in junk.

A quick way to test this, without pulling the manis -- reach down on top of the Y-pipe (post-intercooler) and pull the IAT sensor. If it's covered in an oily funk, you have a blown I/C. If it's clean, then there's a chance you simply have a bad MAP sensor (it happens).

I'm currently going through this nightmare right now, and it sucks.

**EDIT**

Here's a link to what I'm referring to... first pic:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/695125-post23.html

 

JHM2K - thanks for the input. I am running the CM30 without the split cooling. When I looked into deciding whether or not to install the CM30 or an OEM replacement Bosch I saw enough information out there to discourage me from getting the CM30 but then when a fellow forum member had a good price on the Johnson, I couldn't help but go for the "deal". Hopefully that is not going to prove to be the opposite of a "deal". I was under the impression, however, that the split cooling system wasn't necessary for the CM30, but I don't pretend to have anything to back that up.

I will definitely be checking the IAT sensor tomorrow and then trudging over to AutoZone (this will have to eat into my NFL watching time) and get the code read. Will report back.

Appreciate the help again.

 

I had my Johnson cm30 go on me about 6 months after I installed it. It kept blowing #13 for a couple of weeks before it finally died.

 

Thanks. Were you running the split cooling at that time? Also - when yours was acting up were you getting a CEL?

 

there is a big difference in a failing IC pump and limp mode. When the intake temp sensor kicks out the s/c you still have quite a bit of power left without the s/c. So, if in limp mode I would say you have other problems. It could be the temp sensor, but like I said, it won't be limp mode per se, but no s/c engaging. I would look into other possibilities. Especially check for codes it may have thrown.

 

Trying to check the IAT but could not find it. Will use the search but if anyone can help point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.

Still going to try and get the codes checked today. I'll try to describe what I was referring to as limp mode: I press the accelerator and get no feed back until the pedal is 80% to the floor then the engine would rev up high and get me up to speed. Definitely no SC engaging.

The engine ran normal this morning when I tested it briefly in the garage while moving my parking spot (gotta get a corner spot).

 

I am also interested on your thoughts regarding the jarring my car took on the highway triggering this problem? Anything that might of been knocked loose? I find it odd that this started occurring immediately after the long drive and the hard hit it took.

 

Mine was oem system and no codes.

 

Well, after the Skins game ended I pulled my tools and hopped in the car to head to Autozone to get the codes pulled. Of course, the CEL was off this time. So, no codes to be pulled unfortunately. Skipped Autozone and pulled the left airbox to look down into the Y-pipe for any "crud" built up there due to the leaky IC. JHM2K - isn't that where you had that nasty looking build-up on yours, or was that somewhere else? Still haven't located IAC to check that (I know I am clueless). Going to be replacing the Johnson pump with the Bosch OEM unit ASAP regardless. My gut instinct is that this is not the last I have seen of this issue.

 

Nope, where I first found my problem was inside the intake manis... the metal manis with SRT-6 on them

 

could you have loosened the sprint booster..this sounds more like a throttle problem not an IC pump. Lack of throttle response means the signal isn't reaching the throttle body.

 

That was my initial thought when the throttle response was acting all strange. I gave thought to the fact that perhaps the jarring bump may have thrown things off, but then would it make sense for it to be working again? I also was wondering if that being loose may have thrown the CEL.

I unbolted the intake manis from the top, but then realized I would have to do some extensive additional removing of the clips to remove them so I reversed course and held off for now.

 

I had a very similar problem and it WAS the throttle position sensor. Using my code reader, I monitored the TPS percentage and it would fluctuate wildly without any change in pedal position. I would imagine that this makes the ECU say "WTF?" It did throw a code once or twice and as I remember, it was a P0123, and it referenced the TPS. I think this is a known issue...

 

Thanks for the input. Did you replace your TPS or what solved your problem?

 

I think this is the area you need to look into. None of the other things mentioned would cause your problem. Sometimes, just a reset will cure the problem, meaning take a battery cable off, and reboot so to speak. Throttle resets don't always work. I have had my throttle peddle come loose as well, so check that area to make sure it is secure. My mat pushed up against it, not allowing full throttle.

 

Yes, I replaced the pedal assembly which includes the TPS and kickdown switch. About $135 as I remember. Problem solved.

If you haven't already, I would invest in a smartphone app (or other device) to read OBD data. This allowed me to pinpoint the problem and confirm the diagnosis before replacing parts.

+1 on oledoc2u's advice.

 

Au Contraire !!! The TPS is IN the throttle body, it is a rotary resistance plate with spring loaded contacts .......

 

Oh evil nomenclature you have bested me again! Would "pedal value sensor" be more accurate? Or maybe just "that thingy that knows how hard I'm pressing that long footy dealy".

I guess it's really the pedal value generator...since it tells everything else where the pedal is...Ok, I'm rambling now.

I should know better than to post before my 3rd cup of coffee!!

 

Here's the part number for the MB accelerator pedal assembly... A1703000104

I'm not sure if there is a different number for the Crossfire. Looks like the part is closer to $200.