I have welded the IC back together and wanted to share the process with the forum. The tanks and end are back on, cleaned and ready for leak checking. I want to show the relative pressure drop from the dirty core using a shop vac to give me an idea of what crud can do to the tiny fins in the IC.

I believe that the core will be more efficient due to the cleaning, and the conversion to parallel core cooling. The greater flow should be great for the IAT reduction struggle so many of us are going thru. Ill test it on my car shortly.

Please see the album I have been putting together for your better understanding of the IC and its workings. Woody ENJOY

 

Right now it's triple pass, are you making it double or single pass. Are the end tanks going to be larger/deeper? Can you make the inlet and outlet 3/4" instead of 5/8 for increased flow? I'm loving the pictures and process of learning about our intercoolers. I love throwing ideas around too, but I'm not an engineer, sadly.

Les

 

I made single parallel path intercooler. Woody


UOTE=velociabstract;706382]Right now it's triple pass, are you making it double or single pass. Are the end tanks going to be larger/deeper? Can you make the inlet and outlet 3/4" instead of 5/8 for increased flow? I'm loving the pictures and process of learning about our intercoolers. I love throwing ideas around too, but I'm not an engineer, sadly.

Les[/QUOTE]

 

I can't wait to see you test this single pass... Woody, how hard of project would this be for a radiator shop to put one together using some of the fabricated parts of the old cooler?

 

Interesting process Wood....especially you getting in and actually tackling this ....
.....but I'm not sure a parallel HX will do the job.
What's your thinking here?

For some reason I cant view photos 14 onwards...so forgive me for possibly asking stupid questions that may have been answered by the photos....
Water may stagnate to the rear of the HX. Choosing to preferentially short circuit through the front "chamber" effectively reducing the overall working length.
Hopefully you've ground out all the flanging/chamber webs smooth for flow to get up the back.

Will look at this in more detail later.....
-----------------------------------------------
at 2.6Gal/min (10Lpm)...50% glycol cp 3.36kJ/kg
water in 77F/25C
water out 122F/50C...= 48,000BTU/14kW
-----------------------------------------------

 

Given that the water pressure will be essencially the same on each side, the flow will be balanced thru the individual tubes. The relatively high friction with in the tube compared tothe tank will reduce flow differences to a minor degree. Assuming all passages are similar crossections. Htc phone. Woody



QUOTE=Billy22Bob;706538]Interesting process Wood....especially you getting in and actually tackling this ....
.....but I'm not sure a parallel HX will do the job.
What's your thinking here?

For some reason I cant view photos 14 onwards...so forgive me for possibly asking stupid questions that may have been answered by the photos....
Water may stagnate to the rear of the HX. Choosing to preferentially short circuit through the front "chamber" effectively reducing the overall working length.
Hopefully you've ground out all the flanging/chamber webs smooth for flow to get up the back.

Will look at this in more detail later.....
-----------------------------------------------
at 2.6Gal/min (10Lpm)...50% glycol cp 3.36kJ/kg
water in 77F/25C
water out 122F/50C...= 48,000BTU/14kW
-----------------------------------------------[/QUOTE]

 

Nice videos Waldig!

 

Here is one of my first videos of the cut apart IC and my description of the path of the cooling water. The heat is picked up from the outlet first ( my video explains it in reverse so beware of people wearing glasses ) then the middle and finally the inlet from the supercharger (hottest air ).

You can see the water paths better and a short description of the failures is provided. Woody

 

Here's my take on what Woody will achieve with this modification.

Circuits A and B differ only in the side the inlet and outlet are.

Barring losses due to turbulence etc, the total length that water travels through any cooling tube of the cooler are essentially the same.

 

What was clogged with, gravel? Lol

 

Well 180 has my back, now I can rest a bit, welcome aboard mate ehh!

The fine fins in the IC were coated with gunk and oil vapor which attract dirt from the air and INSULATE the fins in addition to blocking the air FLOW. Ill show the difference in a serious way as youll be suprised. The difference is . . . . in a work: is MANIFOLD.

I believe that the air flow can be significantly reduced and the cooling takes a hit in a big way due to the dirt. Remember me I am the one that has been fighting heat in this car and designed the oil catch can for the intake manifold. Well I have to prove it ( to keep the crowd from jumping my case in a big way ) and will show it so that you can decide for yourself.

No cost, just strap in and keep reading - it will be good.

Wdy

 

Totally subscribed here. Look forward to your results. In the meantime, I feel like I should go backflush my CAC.

 

CAC????

And while Iam learning, what does BUMP mean or do in a posting,

Thank you for your assistance.

One more OP???

Woody - been in the lab too much to get out........

See it at 60 seconds.

 

CAC is Bill the cats furball. Oh, wait a second, thats ACK. Bumping is like ..... it depends on who you ask. Bumping this up for updates!

Les

 

bump= to bring a thread to the top of the page
cac = charge air cooler
op= original poster of the thread


woody ttm motorsports added a inlet line at both sides on the rear and made the fronts outlets to allow better flow. dropped temps to close to ambient.

 

32Krazy! have you got pics of this modification that ttm motorsports did?

 

 

As you mentioned - beware for people wearing glasses.....
Here's the circuit pictorially....main picture with coloured cooling pipes compliments of EC.

Excellent about the oil and the dust/dirt build up....certainly justifies the catch can - although, (possibly covered years ago when the catch can was getting "kicked around") ....wouldnt the teflon coated screw impellers need a little bit of lube for longevity and as an aid to seal and reduce tolerances that fraction more? = more boost and longer life???

Now we need to divulge a solvent we can spray into the intakes post the air filter (possible Y-pipes) to dislodge and flush to prevent the remove/install - but at the same time not causing any unnecessary problems with the motor. Possible atomised fuel injector cleaner - as long as it's okay for the MAT and MAP and the teflon.

 

Maybe a mixture of fuel and N2O would do the trick?