You asked about price: For Andrroid Torque Pro is currently U$4.95 but Torque Lite is free (and does less but can try). The TorqueScan plugin is free. There are other products for Windows (TouchScan) and iOS but are more expensive.


OBD-II Dongles generally run $10-$15 from Amazon Prime. I suspect the ELM 1.5s all use the same chipset and works on my cars (have several). I use the Mini version in the XF so I don't hit with my knee. Ones I use are BlueTooth but for the PC

OBZWiz

OBZWiz

is available as a bundle with a USB Dongle (large).


I put together a web page a few years ago but not much has changed.

 

Gonna send you a pm!
PS Sorry for hijacking this thread with my posts about Torque! Good luck to the op figuring out the problems!!

 

Got a call from my buyer today, the car is STILL at Mercedes and the tech (Eric) is still stumped.

Here's where it gets weird -- they pulled plugs, and he said they were completely fouled. Like, black.

Now, remember that I'm running a stock fuel injector setup -- it doesn't get more conservative. Furthermore, I'm running the smallest pulley available for the supercharger, so in all actuality the car should be too LEAN, not too rich.

The Mercedes tech basically told my buyer that the car was "heavily modded" and would take thousands to fix.

I told my buyer that, once again, Mercedes revealed their ignorance because the car literally has three engine mods:

• Pulley
• Intake Tubes
• Tune

Aside from that, there's only the Walbro 255 fuel pump which was put in place when the previous OEM fuel pump developed a leak at 40,000 miles (per the previous owner).

And that's it.

Hardly a "lost cause" as Mercedes told him. As Steve said, if they can't read a code, they're lost. And this is why we've never gone to them.

Once again, I've directed my buyer to this forum; hoping he comes on so he can learn that the car truly isn't a lost cause, it just has a head-cold.

 

I've never been to Benz dealer, but WOW lol.

 

plugs wouldn't make it shut down. Run rough, yes. somewhere in the changing out or back to new injectors, I think there may be a problem. I would take it back to Buckhead if they were the last to touch it. Something has come apart or changed in the tune to make it that rich. I have similar mods and haven't had any problems since we went with a larger fuel pump. So, I would look at the mechanics that were last done, and at the tune.

 

I wonder if the front o2 sensors are bad, causing it to run rich? What were the LT fuel trims when you got the car back from BIP?

My apologies if this was already covered.

 

It would if it floods them out enough. Playing with injectors on Bart's turbo car taught us that lol. Only instead of fouling over weeks, we flooded the cylinders in minutes lol.

 

Well, you guys may have something there if those old injectors were slobbering fuel.....certainly worth a look....

 

I agree though BIP needs to be the one's to take a look.

 

RIGHT!

That was my last comment to him on the phone today... I told him I wasn't a mechanic, that's why I took it to Buckhead to let the "pros" take a stab. It ran flawlessly for 3.5 weeks... and it will run/idle, just very rough.

This is a VERY good possibility. I know when I tried to read codes on the car, I checked the "gauge" function on the DashDaq and it showed LTFT's at +2. So, that's pretty bang-on.

AFR's are in the 12.5-->11.5 range in open loop.

All the more reason I want him on here... he told me on the phone he has no ill-will towards me, and doesn't hold me responsible for the sh!tty timing... But I would still like for him to come on here and see everyone write what I've been saying for weeks... just as a point of affirmation.

 

you have to back track with what was done to make it right. You changed injectors back to stock. Did the old modified injectors failing slobber enough fuel to ruin the cats? Did something fail with the new install of the new stock injectors? Could a sensor have failed like the AIT sensor, failing meaning it broke a tab, allowing it to leak. I had this happen and it ran like crap. You have to look backwards and retrace their steps.

 

The only "cats" that are on there are the 200-cell race cats from the prototype NW downpipes. The O-2 sensors are just in the J-tubes, the race cats are downstream of the sensors. So, really the O-2 sensors aren't reading anything...

I offered to remove the downpipes and replace them with the factory 4-cat setup, but he declined, wanting to keep the option to run cutouts.

When I sold him the car I told him I'd throw in the stock pipes, as they are of no use to me. To date, we haven't met up to make the exchange.