Anyone else with a Wavetrac have a clunk sound going from FWD to REV?


So a couple weeks ago I noticed my car is making a clunk when moving from Drive to Reverse (or back) when my foot is on the brake. I brought it to a guy who watched from below while I was on the lift and he said it was the differential because the driveshaft moved front/back when the noise happened.


So, I pulled out the diff and opened it up to inspect. Everything looks snug, no apparent issue with backlash setting... I them pulled the driveshaft and axles. all flex couplers and the center support mount/bearing are a year or so old and look fine. When putting it back together, the pass side inner CV joint seemed to make a little noise as I spun back/forth, so thought that was the problem. I disassembled the CV joint and it is perfect!


Now, I'm back to suspecting the differential again. I do have a stock one to put back in and try, but really want the Wavetrac to stay... so I was curious if anyone else experienced this?


TIA,
~ Alan

 

Put the stock diff back in. Same clunk. So definitely not the Wavetrac.

 

nope.......

 

Transmission mount? Loose exhaust bracket where they attach to the trans. ?

 

So far I have removed and inspected: Axles, diff (swapped out), driveshaft (incl: center support bearing/mount and flex couplers). I also put a new trans mount in, due to the one done by a dealer a few years ago had stripped bolt holes... All appears to be fine. It should be noted that the eng mounts were done apx 9k mi ago and the flex couplers and center support around 5k mi ago.

I just put the car on jacks and crawled under it while my coworker duplicated the noise for me. Both sides actual make a "pop"and shift a little when this happens (whole caliper assembly and suspension). Almost like a bushing in the suspension is bad. But since it happens on both sides, that doesn't seem right... I'm about to say screw it and drop it off at Mercedes to diagnose.

 

Cracked sway bar mounts maybe ?

 

One of ours was doing something similar, took it to Chrysler since it's under warranty and they said one of the drive shafts bolt was loose, maybe it'll be that easy for you?

 

I have the same noise shifting from FWD to REV. Never had a chance to put a wavtrac in yet, I have MikeR rear upper camber arms and poly sway bar bushings. I haven't had a chance to crawl underneath to check it out. Thanks for posting question and I hope you find it for sure.

 

I wish I could help.

If both sides move, rear subframe mount?

 

Any updates on the noise/problem? Sorry if I missed in another thread

 

Nope, and it's getting worse, now I can feel a clunk sometimes when it downshifts when slowing down... I just picked it up last week from shipping it (Germany to US). I need to ask around for a reputable shop in the Tampa area to drop it off with...

 

The noise sounds too extreme - however - could it be a case of hard shifting in the tranny?
I recall reading about this when the solenoids start to play up....? Which one I'm not sure.

b22b

 

buggin.....something in the drive line for sure. Any chance it has a broken shock mount as I am sure you looked for that....but, it does happen. Getting banged around on a ship might have loosened something up....check you tranny mount as well....good luck....

 

Tampa, eh? Weren't you in Germany? Anyway, "M Complete" is highly recommended by others in town although I cannot personally vouch for them. I can say avoid MB of Tampa like ebola unless you happen to know the service manager or something and mint your own coin. Drop me a PM if you're around Tampa and we can get a beer.

Craig

 

The noise I'm having that sounds very similar comes from when the car is stopped, shifted to park, let off brake, car falls forward until parking pin catches, and "clunk", definitely metal on metal. Either drive shaft or rear axles. May even be the rear end links as they shift.


OEM rear end links except MikeR upper control arm. I have checked my flex disks and they don't show any signs of stress.

 

Let's get back to the "driveshaft moved front/back."

If the dirive shaft moved front to rear, what about the differential flange? and the crush tube on the pinion shaft.

 

Sounds like to checked or replaced anything that moves or stays stationary and missed something so start over.

Can you duplicate this clunk with the car parked and shift from F to R?

Block one wheel at a time and test with brakes released.
When you can hear the noise but can't pin down the direction or location, use a Stethoscope or feel parts that are save to touch.

 

my car makes noises like that. it is worse when it is cold. Mine clicks multiple times very quickly then a slight clunk. I "assume" it is all the gears in the wave track making contact which makes the split second of clicking and the clunk is just the car saying its ready... all my gaps are with in spec, stuff seems tight. I will just giv'er till something breaks.

clunk could be sooo many things, from the tranny to the breakpads having play in the caliper.

keep us posted if anyone can confirm a cause or solution

 

craig alan just transferred from germany. you 2 should meet up. he is as intense about his car as you are!!

 

Buggin, first thanks for getting the ball rolling on the wave-trac a few years ago with out you we wouls not have a wavetrac. see it here.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...light=wavetrac

now to maybe help my brake pads make the clicking or clunking noise but there is no real problem,, if i back up and just touch the brake peddle i get the clunk, as i go forward i get it again,,but only once in either direction . I have this without the wave-trac and with the wave-trac, i had this with the 307 diff and with the 327 diff . I also have a biger and better Transmission and still have the click,,, i am 90% sure it is the rear brakes
I also had to replace ALL my rear sub frame bushings just over $200, from Chrysler or $500 from Mercedes and if you need them order one per part number as 2 (TWO) come in the box ,,2 front and 2 rear.
On the ground have a person on both sides looking at the rear tires see if the tire moves back and forth as you hold the brake and at about 100 rpm go back and forth in dr and rev. jim