Changed from the OEM to the C3 65mm pulley the other day - thought I'd seek some tips and tricks for next time.

The OEM was pretty stuck on there - I suspect for the entire 80k miles and 13 years of the cars life

1) Trying to get the washer off - I had to resort to vice grips. I somehow managed to bend the pins, didn't notice it until I started it up first time and the washer was a little ..."visually lumpy" as it went around.
I pulled things apart and tried to improve things - looks 98% and pretty sure it isn't enough to send a significant vibe through the system - although might have another go next time.

2) I'm not 100% confident of the bearing in this 2nd hand C3, so she'll be coming off at some stage for a bearing replacement. I have one of those EC aluminum 61mm units - so might give it a run.

3) The OEM pulley came off relatively easy - even past the Oil cooler hose, but I had to lower the oil cooler hose clip out of the way.

4) However....the new C3 was a pain to get back on after 1/2" and I ended up persisting by rotating the magnet and tapping it home with a rubber mallet. But I wasn't going to try to take it off again - this time - 'cause I can see me needing a gear puller and probably double the amount of reverse tapping.

5) Keeping the OEM shim, the magnet/pulley gap ended up at 0.9mm. As I said I wasn't going to try and take this off right way and thought I'd try it like that. Seems okay - job for next time.

6) I felt a few minutes of panic when I looked at the end of the hollow torque bolt and it looked snapped. After all I did use a rattle gun on it to get it off. But after calming down, I measured the hole depth at 35mm and the bolt depth of 25mm I knew I hadn't left any in there. Its just a short bolt. Might get a spare just the same.

7) With seized pulleys like this one, as reported in other threads, the rubber pad/leaver idea was a dead loss - I opted for the rattle gun hoping "it shouldn't break the torque bolt" - fortunately it didn't. When torqueing it back up to 20Nm with the new pulley, the pad sort of worked - but I think I'll go for a strap wrench next time. If anyone has gone this way - with any preferences in styles- let us know. Anyone gone with some locktite (blue?) on this or just leave it?

My logs since are indicating an increase from 14 to 16psi. My air flow is up about 10%. Probably need to check for mani leaks.

b22b

 

I use this strap wrench. Works fine all the time. You already know what can happen using your #1 method.
Before putting the pulley back on, you can spray some lubricant, but hitting it a few times with a rubber mallet is fine too.
A gap of 0.9mm is way to much and you should address it immediately. The gap should be 0.25mm-0.3mm.
And don't use the air gun for the pulley. it will bite you in the rear one day.

 

Thanks L

Yes - that's one I was looking at. Just gotta make sure it can fit over the 120mm magnetic.

PS - 0.9mm is too large...? what is the consequence?
I'm still trying to understand the mechanics of this. I'm guessing the magnet pulls the backing plate hard up = engages. If the gap is too great - it wont make "good contact" or it may warp and fatigue over time....

Am I on the right track?

 

Sorry but what is it about "I use this strap wrench. Works fine all the time." you don't get ? This means that it will fit over 120mm magnetic. And you are right on regarding the consequences of improper gap.

 

1) Trying to get the washer off - I had to resort to vice grips. I somehow managed to bend the pins, didn't notice it until I started it up first time and the washer was a little ..."visually lumpy" as it went around.
I pulled things apart and tried to improve things - looks 98% and pretty sure it isn't enough to send a significant vibe through the system - although might have another go next time.




Is this washer suppose to be centered? Mine is also wobbly and I just figured it was used to balance the supercharger.