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When I put the top down today, I found a wind blocker type rear screen in the soft top compartment. It only velcrows between the inside of the roll hoops but has a molded plastic frame on the lower edge. This has 4 screw holes for mounting. Is this a factory part. I do not want to drill and screw so am thinking of using double sided tape or velcrow for the base. Your thoughts please.
Thank you, Yes that's the bugger. Wow they are pretty expensive. the one with the car has a couple of scratches on the corner but I have some buffing compound that will get rid of them. I didn't want to drill holes in the car so I found some double sided tape in the drawer( amazing what you find in the kitchen...thank you ex wife. lol). Does it work? well it does a bit , not so windy ( hit 42 C yesterday). also fixed the rear window separating form the soft top with some siccaflex black window mastic which seems to have worked a treat. Many thanks for that info on this site. from all the info I can find they didn't make many of the SRT6 convertibles' in Right hand drive, so its pretty rare in Australia. I just love driving her ( funny all good things are female ) you don't have to go fast all the time, its just nice to know you have some reasonable power under your foot. ( if I want to go daft I just take one of the bikes) .
But I can blow off most V8s over here if I want too. Ive told my son this car is a keeper. Once again many thanks.
I have the Chrysler wind breaker since I bought my car in 2005. I never used the bottom trim, just the velcro to the footman loops. Never had a problem. BTW, it also came with a form-fitting bag which is where the bottom trim has been stored. Armor-all does a nice job removing the fine scratches.
I went to install my Genuine Mopar Part # 82209107AB WINDSTOP (that's what they call it!) today. In case you too have one laying around you'll need a 6.1mm metric drill bit (you can get by with a 15/64" but you'll have to ream-out the hole, and I'm too much of a perfectionist for that!). For $7.00 "all up" you can get one from this guy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264710222781? In the "Size" drop-down box select 6.1mm. Also you'll need a Torx T20, plus an M4 (size) Blind Rivet Nut Tool like this one:
Why wreck a perfectly nice roadster with unnecessary holes. The OEM rear windscreens are available on ebay if you look, I saw a couple the other day, "new". They trade around $180, they are a quality item, come with a protector sleeve and factory brackets with velcro fasteners. Great item. We have one on our car. We're fussy. Remember, you can't pay too much for a discontinued or NLA, OEM item.
Why wreck a perfectly nice roadster with unnecessary holes. The OEM rear windscreens are available on ebay if you look, I saw a couple the other day, "new". They trade around $180, they are a quality item, come with a protector sleeve and factory brackets with velcro fasteners. Great item. We have one on our car. We're fussy. Remember, you can't pay too much for a discontinued or NLA, OEM item.
That's the one I installed, the factory unit, Genuine Mopar Part # 82209107AB WINDSTOP
The Chrysler factory instructions calls for drilling 4 holes to mount the lower bracket. If you want I'll take a picture of the instructions for you.
And BTW, I bought mine brand-new for only $94 last year from Quirk Chrysler in Braintree, Mass!
Hey WD 40 good buy on your windscreen. I guess I should have clarified about mounting without drilling holes. The OEM brackets can be attached to the roll bars and the windscreen and the lower gasket without drilling any holes. The velcro holds everything tight with a full wrap around the hoops. Ours has never shown any signs of being loose or rubbing the roll hoops.
Hey WD 40 good buy on your windscreen. I guess I should have clarified about mounting without drilling holes. The OEM brackets can be attached to the roll bars and the windscreen and the lower gasket without drilling any holes. The velcro holds everything tight with a full wrap around the hoops. Ours has never shown any signs of being loose or rubbing the roll hoops.
I'll try it on local roads with just the velcro today. Screw holes are only imaginary things scribed with a pencil right now as that odd 6.1mm drill bit won't be here until Monday. Have you driven it on the Interstate like that?
I have had the car up to 110 blowing out the carbon and no problem at all. Usually its a back country road at 50-60 and around town, but driven at a steady 70 to 80 and never a problem. Our windscreen came with the car and gratefully the holes weren't drilled. I have all the original parts. I don't believe in unnecessary holes etc if I can help it.. 57,000 miles and counting.
Last edited by Johnny Versatile; May 9, 2020 at 07:13 AM.
I see I commented on this 5 years ago. I have had the factory wind blocker since the car was new and never used the bottom bracket, just the velcro. It has not moved, even at speeds of 140 mph (one quiet day between the Mack Bridge and SSM). Repeating that a light spray of Armor-All makes it look new.
I went to install my Genuine Mopar Part # 82209107AB WINDSTOP (that's what they call it!) today. In case you too have one laying around you'll need a 6.1mm metric drill bit (you can get by with a 15/64" but you'll have to ream-out the hole, and I'm too much of a perfectionist for that!). For $7.00 "all up" you can get one from this guy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264710222781? In the "Size" drop-down box select 6.1mm. Also you'll need a Torx T20, plus an M4 (size) Blind Rivet Nut Tool like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o00_s00
Or you can get creative and "McGuyver" the job, but that ain't me.
I guess the drill is to clear a 6mm screw then if so a US standard letter B or C drill would have been fine, why make things more awkward?
I guess the drill is to clear a 6mm screw then if so a US standard letter B or C drill would have been fine, why make things more awkward?
No, there are 4 "thread-serts" or whatever you wish to call them that you use a rivet-gun to permanently affix to the large plastic cover on the Crossfire. So you are drilling the holes to accommodate the outside-diameter of the threaded-inserts, which then take a 4mm screw (also included with the Windstop). But the outside diameter of the threaded-inserts is 6.1mm. All this is specified in the installation instructions that come with the part.
No, there are 4 "thread-serts" or whatever you wish to call them that you use a rivet-gun to permanently affix to the large plastic cover on the Crossfire. So you are drilling the holes to accommodate the outside-diameter of the threaded-inserts, which then take a 4mm screw (also included with the Windstop). But the outside diameter of the threaded-inserts is 6.1mm. All this is specified in the installation instructions that come with the part.
If you wish I'll take pictures of it today.
No need for photos, but we are not talking of precision machining here.
6.0 mm = .236 diameter
6.1 mm = .240 diameter
A letter B drill is .238 diameter
A letter C drill is .242 diameter
No need for photos, but we are not talking of precision machining here.
6.0 mm = .236 diameter
6.1 mm = .240 diameter
A letter B drill is .238 diameter
A letter C drill is .242 diameter
There is not much difference between them.
Yeah, ONLY 2/1000ths of an inch? Hardly a difference is right UNLESS the guy holding the drill wiggles like he11 while holding the running drill! Still, I bet the 'serts' would be real tight! Just do not use a really long drill bit, maybe??? Never can be too careful with what is behind it (as a GENERAL rule).
Yeah, ONLY 2/1000ths of an inch? Hardly a difference is right UNLESS the guy holding the drill wiggles like he11 while holding the running drill! Still, I bet the 'serts' would be real tight! Just do not use a really long drill bit, maybe??? Never can be too careful with what is behind it (as a GENERAL rule).
True. I've used the rubber tubing trick for 30 years. Using the proper diameter of small rubber tubing (or silicone tubing, if you have a bunch left-over from that craze!), cut the proper length of tubing so it slides over the drill bit leaving only as much of the drill bit visible as you wish to drill into your 'object'.
I sold my factory windscreen a couple years ago in only 5 minutes after posting it for sale
I now realize now I sold it much to cheap at only $100
I sold it because I prefer the black mesh style windscreen