I was wondering if anyone on here has installed a boost gauge on their SRT-6? I am dropping my car off at my trusty performance shop this week to have a Needswings oil catch can as well as an OEM SRT-4 mechanical boost gauge installed. I am sure that the shop can figure it out, but just in case they have any questions I wanted to come prepared. My only concern is where does it get plumbed into on the stock intake manifold? I noticed that the Needswings "tweaked" intake manifolds have different inlet tubes, hence the description "tweaked"....lol. Any advice/input for me to pass along to the shop is greatly appreciated. I am also going to be mounting the boost gauge in a rather nifty location that I haven't seen done before so stay tuned for pictures later this week!

From the Needswing tweaked intake manifold's description (SRT6 / SLK32 / C32 Tweaked Stock Intake Manifolds)

We add a 1/8" npt bung to both the passenger and driver side inlet tubes to be used for a boost gauge (plugs will be included if you don't use them).

20150831_205544_zpsk6op6eri.jpg

 

Anyone? I'm sure at least one person here has installed a boost gauge in conjunction with a stock intake manifold.

 

Disregard. I spoke with my roomate who is a MB technician and he assured me that the bungs could be mounted to the existing runners on the stock intake manifolds.

 

That is a bad boost gauge. Factory SRT-4 gauge I presume? It is supposed to sit at 0 right in the middle. You can take the easy route and just buy an UltraGuage for around $60 and you can read boost from that which is more accurate since it is reading from the MAP sensor.

 

Heres a picture on where mine is connected. The other side has one underneath for the water meth controller. (now unused) Dang, I need to get cleaning under the hood!

Les

A photo of the connection in the Y pipe for the meth injector.

 

It's actually very common for mechanical boost gauge's to be "off" a little bit. Doesn't mean the boost gauge is bad, just means that the calibration of the needle is off a little bit. I've actually seen many instances where it'll be slightly off on a brand new boost gauge. (There are countless threads about this happening on other forums) The simple solution is just to factor in how off it is when you're reading it to know what your actually boost pressure is. But in all honestly i'm not really concerned about it. I don't really have alot of power mods done to my car and it never sees a track. I am mostly doing the boost gauge for aesthetic purposes. I never quite understood why the SRT-4 came factory with a boost gauge but an upper-echelon model like the SRT-6 lacked it. I wanted the car to look like it came factory with a boost gauge which is why I sourced an OEM SRT-4 boost gauge. I like that the gauge face is silver (it matches the interior trim/center console) and has the "SRT" logo on it. I am going to be mounting it somewhere that will look like it came from the factory with it so stay tuned for that. To my knowledge no-one has mounted a gauge where it'll be going.

I should also note that the boost gauge was given to me for free which is why i'm not too concerned by it being off....lol.

Thanks Les!

 

Typically boost gauges are in Turbos more than Supercharged cars. They are easier and more likely to be altered and running high boost, and need a gauge. Most turbo setups can be setup to override factory computer controlled boost with a simple mechanical boost controller for about $12, and you have "Dial a HP". I used to do that on my old Chrysler 2.2 turbo Shelby Chargers and my Turbo Rampage. But mainly, they are just for looks for most people.

 

Yeah, I have noticed that as well. The only factory S/C car that I can think of off the top of my head that came factory with a boost gauge was the '05-'07 Cobalt SS. I think the main reason that Chevy decided to include a factory boost gauge in the Cobalt SS was so that it would have the same appeal that the SRT-4 had to the younger audience they were marketed towards. Ask me how I know..... (I used to have an '07 Cobalt SS)

But yeah, I am mostly adding it for looks/aesthetic purposes.

 

Gotcha. I have one where it sits right in the middle un-installed. But yeah you can't beat a free gauge. You might be able to fix it, that would bother me if I had a gauge that was off by 6psi/inches. But I see you have it mainly for aesthetic reasons.


Would of been nice if the SRT-6 had one. Especially knowing how expensive the SRT-6 was brand new. But the group of people that bought them new were not kids and probably had no idea what boost was. No reason to have one in there it would just confuse them and they would go to the dealer to complain about it or something

 

It's off by 3PSI from the looks of it.

And yeah....lol. My friends always refer to my car as the "old man car". I feel that there's some truth to that though.

 

It's off by 6psi. Really, start with a good gauge as it seems you are doing a very nice install from your description. Don't cheap out and make the whole install appear cheap. Not knocking you, just giving an opinion. part of my "Fall Fever".

 

Check out the old post> Dash Pod From Junk by Squirrel Crusher

 

My 1989 Mercury Cougar XR-7 had a factory boost gauge right in the center of the dash. Thus I have to conclude all the Ford Super Coupes did as well.
https://forums.tccoa.com/picture.php...&pictureid=922 It took the place of the volt gauge on non XR-7 Cougars & the volt gauge was moved to the center console.
Not as good a picture but this one is from a USA car with a MPH speedometer: https://forums.tccoa.com/picture.php...&pictureid=914