The intake gaskets I got do not fit the motor but they are the same as in the pics online though on the motor they are shaped differently, now what? I got Fel-Pro MS 97091 which is correct, the pics online are the same as the gaskets I got but the motor has different gaskets.
On the motor the opening is basically oval with no spot where the injector likely sits as the gaskets in the package do. Also it seems the gaskets in the package have a water hole and I don't think the ones on the engine do have this round/oval hole(couldn't be for water) I am at a loss because I got the right gasket according to the part number and the pics online but they are not the gaskets I have on the car! I don't know what to even get as according to all the info i have they are the right gaskets.
I could take the intake manifold off again and take pics of what is on the car and what I got in the package that seems to be correct and my car is wrong, only me!
The gaskets from the package have no part number stamped on them. At a loss here. mark


http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7218...e7saApqu8P8HAQ

My gaskets in the package look like these in the link. The gaskets on the engine are not shaped like these! On the motor they do not have the small "hump" in each opening for the head runners. Since I got the correct gasket as far as numbers go but it is not what is on the car what do I do now, suggestions?

 

The gasket pictured in your link goes under your supercharger. You want need to pull the supercharger for changing out fuel injectors. Squirrel Crusher

 

SQ, I'm sure you know a ton more than I do about these but I did a search and there is a u-tube clip that shows a guy changing the injectors. He did not even fully remove the rail, left it attached around back by the TB. There ARE metal gaskets under my intake manifolds, where do I get those? I'm really confused now. I see no need to pull the SC so please explain more to me as the injectors are outboard of the SC, not under it. With the intake off all I would have to do is remove the bolts holding the rail down and then it would seem the injectors could be changed, clips easily removed and installed again. Please do , no I'll find the link for the u-tube clip and put it here, the only difference is it is a V8 but still a SC model.


Please watch and comment. Still the gaskets under the intakes would have to be changed right or no? Again, with the intakes out of the way the rail would lift up and bring the injectors with it and be an easy change like in this clip?! WoW. Here I go and attempt something only to find it is more involved and can be done in an hour?

 

OK. I watched the clip yet again. The injectors are outboard of the SC and almost the intake manifolds but under them a bit so off the intakes have to be taken. Then why could I not change the injectors just as in the video? I found a vacuum leak, maybe something I pulled out but maybe there for a while, maybe it will not run lean if it had a vacuum leak, unmetered air without fuel added for it but I would think I'd have heard the leak before. Please explain why the SC has to come off please. mark

 

What you have are the lower gaskets that seal the manifold that's integral with the supercharger to the cylinder head. You need the upper air charge intake gaskets. You can reuse the old ones if they come off without damage IF you use copper spray. I'd rather use new ones but …. Here's the part No. for MB. A1120980080. I have these on my car as we speak.
The supercharger doesn't have to be removed. I've swapped injectors with the supercharger on before.

Les

 

DO NOT REMOVE THE SUPERCHARGER.. I was just saying that you have the (lower) intake gaskets that go under the supercharger and you Don't need these gaskets. You need the (upper) intake gaskets. You can get the upper metal manifold gaskets from your Mercedes dealer or get them from NeedsWings that are made of rubberized cork. Either material will work. I watched your u-tube video. You will be doing the same process. Remove the fuel rail bolts then removed and throttle body. You can leave the fuel rail attached in the back to your fuel line hose if you choose. I disconnected my fuel line from the rails back side because the SRT-6 has a pressure safety valve release on the back side that somewhat henders you from tilting the fuel rail back like in the video. The rail isn't going to lift upward easily like in the video that already had everything taken apart and fuel rail pryed loose. Use something like a wooden slat or a rag over a adjustable wrench to pry the rail upward EVENLY. The injectors will come up with the rail. Before you install your new injectors,rub silicone grease or some type of lubericant on all o-rings then reassemble. Good Luck..Squirrel Crusher

 

I used a touch of vaseline on the O-rings. Don't get anything on the tip of the injectors.

Les

 

THANKS! I was sick over that misunderstanding. It should not be tough but I have not removed the TB yet. Changing the inj's will be easy now. I had myself pulling the SC and do not want to do that unless it goes to the guy who ports them, Stegiemier or like that. has anyone gotten any power gain from his work on our SC?
I've changed injectors MANY times on other cars. I found it interesting that in that clip they used the exact injectors I bought. Now to pick a day and get this done. I could probably copper spray the stock metal gaskets and not have an issue. I'll see, would want the steel ones. Thanks so much!!!! mark

 

The injectors are in and all back together but the tune has an issue, no boost. I had this before and a throttle reset fixed it but E/C is writing a whole new tune, hope it helps. I did not have to remove the TB either, just the rail and up it went enough to change the injectors. Thanks guys, mark

 

Didn't we tell you it was cake? Glad you got it done with few hick ups. Now that we have you confidence a mile high, what's next?

Les

 

Yeah, 45mgs. of Oxycodone and I feel better, it kicked my butt! I need to get the boost resolved first and exhaust is my next mod. I have already gotten a Magnaflow TRU X-pipe internally to go where the rear cats are. Did you try an x-pipe to see if it helped the headers because these V6 motors make some unbalanced exhaust that an x-pipe will take care of, not an H-pipe. I am putting a Borla Pro XS in the rear, resonator removed and even a 4" round perforated muffler if I think I need it few decibles quieter. I have to work with the stock downpipes so I can afford Rob's headers as I have a good feeling about them, if they make 15whp+ I am in. You have cut outs I think and they did not give you much and I think that is because you have a good catback so the cututs had little to give. That shows me that a good catback is worth over 10whp, maybe 15whp. If I can get 40+WHP from the exhaust that would be awesome. After the exhaust I am doing a remote dyno tune with Jerry hoping for another 15whp there. Thanks for all of the help and PM's you answered Les. You responded in the way a forum member should, helping those going down a road you already have so you can say what is good and what is not, easy or hard also!