I had another thread about problems with my srt6 " changed air cleaner now cel"

It had a p0123 code and the accelerator was unresponsive . the day before I changed the accelerator pedal I started to get a bunch more codes . so I disconnected battery , changed pedal , reconnected battery , did a pedal recalibration, cleared all codes and tested .

well the accelerator peddle was now back to normal . but all the codes reappeared except the p0123 code . car drives smooth but drives like a na car . no supercharger and all of these error codes . i'm lost , frustrated and need to find someone to figure this out .

fault%20codes.png

would like to get a referral to someone that knows these and not to have to take it to a dealer .

I did order a used throttle body that I well swap out this weekend but I don't think its the problem , not getting that code anymore .

any ways i'm in Naples , Fl about 2 hours from tampa and 2.5 from Miami .


if someone wants to come to beautiful Naples for a weekend I well rent them a nice hotel if they diagnose my car .

thanks for the help,




mike

 

Hi Mike, am confused (easy to confuse me lately). Did you solve the previous post, or is this one an extension of it? If it is an extension of it, it makes it harder to address it if in two places. Please 'un-confuse' me?


.

 

previous problem solved , that's why the new thread .

If someone has any idea's how to fix it I would be glad to try . but if there is someone I can take it to and pay to fix that's fine too .

Its depressing to have such a great car and not have it running right .

 

I'm going to take a guess that you have a common problem in the ECU. Codes P0410, P0446 and P0445 seem to all be related to a burned contact on the relay control panel. You are getting the O2 sensor codes because of the Evaporative Emission Vent problem.
For $20.00 send the ECU to tighed1, a forum member, (see ECU threads) and he will repair.
Hopefully someone better versed in the SRT will chime in on this!

 

Not ECU, it is the RCM.

 

Thanks 180; I knew what I meant, just another of my age related stutters.

 

Stutters? You too?

 

Try Rex Pippins' Autowerkes of Sarasota 9419556800. He, and his team really know the SRT6 and the C32 AMGs.

 

Try the RCM fix first, could save a lot of $ in diagnostics/parts. BTW, I think the RCM fix price is slightly higher unless there was a price reduction I don't know about.


.

 

I well . just waiting for tighed1 to respond to my pm . sure hope that is the problem . I took it out yesterday and couldn't see any bad solder joints . tried to look at the contacts and see if they were burnt but couldn't tell . don't know how you guys looking there but I couldn't .

 

https://www.facebook.com/mercedesrepairsarasota/
mercedesrepairsarasota.com
s&s Mercedes repair in Sarasota

they know these cars

 

king happy, if tighed1 hasn't responded to your PM try his email at: tighed1@hotmail.com and I believe he is asking $27 now for the repair. When you get your RCM back it will include an added benefit. Your horn will work all the time, not just when the key is turned on.

 

update:
checked fuses on rcm and f2 blown . replaced fuse cel went out . tested car no sc . turned off and restarted car cel back on f2 fuse blown again.

swapped on new rcm , tested , blew f2 on new rcm .

what does the f2 go to ? manual says engine control 2 ?

does the transmission control connect to this ?

thanks for the help .

 

I'm a bit confused. Did you get a RCM from tighed1 or were/what is the "new" RCM in the quote.
One of the codes you had was P0445 Evap Emiss Control Sys Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted. IF you have a good RCM with new relays and contacts and then you are continuing to blow fuse 2 on the relay I believe you have a short in the Purge Solenoid valve circuit. The purge solenoid is located on the left side of the engine compartment just forward of the anti lock brake valve block. There are also Components of the Evap Emmiss system near the passenger side rear wheel under a plastic cover for the fuel pump and filter.
Look in the Service Manual in the ENGINE section 9 and see the engine electrical diagnostics, scroll down to the code P0445 and you will see the info starts at page 454. Note, you will see this near the start of the trouble shooting: Note: Check the Engine Control Fuse 2 in the Relay Control Mod- ule. If it is open, multiple DTCs will be set in the PCM. Determine the cause of the open fuse before continuing using the wiring diagrams/schematics as a guide.
ALL THIS IS PREDICATED ON THE FACT YOU HAVE A GOOD RCM.
The wiring goes from #2 fuse through a splice behind the engine to the purge soleniod then back to the PCM Powertrain control module.
That is the best I can do for you. Anything much more is beyond me. Good Luck!

 

I did some searches and seems like some people on here and MB forum had same issue with F2 fuse blowing and SC not working. Unfortunately, no one posted a resolution. Some pointed to O2 sensors and air pump. There should be someone knowledgeable (onehundred80, ala_xfire, graphite ghost,etc.) help guide you through troubleshooting. Please post resolution when you do figure it out.

 

zip,

thanks for the info . I did buy a new RCM and installed that . sending original to RJ for upgrade .
so it blew the f2 on the original and the new rcm .

started another post on this so that the heading would talk about blown f2 fuse , hope this doesn't add confusion .

unhooked sc and drove car easy , fuse was ok. then drove again hard wot . fuse blew . all with sc unplugged . when I get off work here shortly I'm going to unhook evap control valve and drive it home . see if the fuse blows . the only way I can think of zeroing in on cause is to disconnect everything I can behind f2 fuse until it quits blowing . then rehook up things one at a time and find cause . according to wiring diag. sc clutch , air pump solenoid , evap valve, charcoal canister shutoff valve and all 4 02 sensors are behind f2 fuse .
i'm open for any ideas.

 

Try unplugging the air pump for a trip and see if the fuse blows. I am thinking the pump motor is seized and drawing too much current. Tis is a WAG (Wild A$$ Guess). Good luck!


.

 

thanks , I will try that tomorrow

 

Try disconnecting the air pump switch-over solenoid.

 

King happy, you are on the right track. I was going to suggest the super charger clutch. You may want to drop that plastic shield near the passengers rear wheel that protects the fuel pump and see if a rodent has tried to make a home back there. They love chewing wires.
PLEASE tell us the solution when you get this figured out. This is one of those Sherlock Holmes mysteries Good Luck!!