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What is the best tool for evaluation of a 2005 SRT? I am looking at one with 44,000 miles coupe at a dealership. They want 14500, although when i look at KBB, Edmonds and Haggery , the retail is around 11,500. The prices are all over the board, I researched on BAT and Pcarmarket.com . How does one know a good deal? I would like to buy from a private party, and am now in Florida.
Last edited by dennisoates; Jan 26, 2025 at 10:32 AM.
Reason: its a coupe, not ragtop
Wow . I have a black 2005 SRT6 roadster with 60,000 miles and I would NEVER part with him for that money. You should look at that car hard. There are a lot of ways to evaluate the condition of any used car and this one is no exception,
When considering a roadster take a close look at the rear wing for cracks. Many of them crack (on both sides) where the upright supports meet the wing.
It’s an easy fix but can cost a few bucks if you don’t have the know how or tools to correct it. Use this when negotiating with the seller
I’ve attached a few “before” images of the wing I needed to repair before I installed it on my car.
My understanding is that this issue is only seen on the roadsters
It’s now a 20 year old car so it’s tough to use an easy metric to determine value. The best evaluation tools are your brain, wallet and heart, in that order.
Do your due diligence, factor in the overall condition (brain) After that, determine if it’s worth what your willing to pay (wallet), finally, do you HAVE to have it (heart)
I HAD to have one in white. Nothing else mattered to me.
11 years later and I still love this car.
Any car is only worth what YOU’RE willing to pay.
Wishing you success on your search for the perfect roadster.
Dennis
My thoughts may differ on the subject of pricing from quite a few forum members. I've owned mine (SRT6 Coupe) since April 2006, the original owner. In the 13 years I've searched and received help from other forum members, reviewing numerous websites finding VIN#'s for the database, since Chrysler refused to supply this forum with a complete listing of all SRT6's manufactured, regardless of the location in the world.
This is a 20-year-old car, so expect numerous owners of the SRT6's available, so look at the following list below to make a decision:
Don't rely on a CarFax as the primary tool, period!
Look for a completely documented maintenance, paper trail.
Determine the number of prior owners, I've encountered 8-9 owners at this time, a real reason for a low sales price $8-$12 thousand dollars, regardless of mileage, the maintenance is ignored!
Check out the interiors for excessive wear on the seats.
On roadsters, verify the top is in good, working condition or replaced by a BAS top, check the hydraulics for the operation of the top.
Check on "flood" cars, Branded Title cars, walk away, regardless of pricing.
I would suggest that you review the Form Marketplace for member's SRT6's For Sale at this time. There are a few in Florida that you may want to view as a comparison This is a partial list of items that need to be reviewed.....
Good luck in your search....
Regards, Dennis
DTMenace
Last edited by DTMenace; Jan 26, 2025 at 10:45 AM.
When I purchased my 2005 SRT6 Coupe it had 28,00 miles and I paid $18000 for it. But it was a three-owner car that had a good service history and had recent maintenance done to it. The car was in good shape and ran well. I had been searching for a year before buying. I have looked at four other SRT's and some needed a lot of work. Even though I knew I could do the work and there was plenty of information on this site I added up the cost of repair and the cost of the car and it was too much. As you have stated looking at all the different sites that sell cars you see the prices are all over the place. I see some go for low money and others do not sell because the price is too high for the mileage. And you have to ask yourself a basic question are you buying it as an investment or a car to enjoy? I certainly purchased the car for the fun factor. My wife and I enjoy the car. You don't see a lot of them and that is good, it is not high on a car thief's list. And there is so much you can do to individualize it, or you can just leave it stock and enjoy it. And as long as you know the weak points and take care of them you will have a great driver. Good luck with your search.
Just a thought on value. A car in your area has cost savings. Shipping and travel can run a couple thousand. Nothing worse than to travel and car is not worth buying. It's not a mustang where can find a couple dozen locally.
What is the best tool for evaluation of a 2005 SRT? I am looking at one with 44,000 miles coupe at a dealership. They want 14500,
Like others have said, look at the included documents on maintenance and so forth. I'm sure it's highly detailed.
Does the horn blow with the Key in the off position? It's good if it does, it means more likely than not, its relay control module RCM, has been modified and improved by DJ Tighe. That's a good thing. He writes the date in silver Sharpie on the side. If the horn doesn't blow with the key off, expect you will need a new RCM, Relay Control Module, before long.
Look for evidence of leaks. There is a couple of common places.
I wish I knew an easy way to check for water under the Styrofoam block in the trunk. They get water in them and that can trash the central locking pump.
Is the alarm working? You can test it by rolling down the window, closing the door. Pressing the lock button on the fob, or by locking the door with the key. Then reach inside through the open window, open the door, then see if the alarm sounds. If it does, now listen to see if it beeps when you lock, or unlock the doors. If the siren doesn't sound or beep, someone has already disconnected the siren. That keeps you from having to do it later. They can cause a parasitic drain on the battery and most folks simply disconnect them. If it beeps when you lock or unlock using the remote fob, it means someone has already replaced the siren with a newer model, you're good for quite a while until it starts draining the battery.
Check the TPMS light. Does it have black tape covering it? If so, one or more of your TPMS sensors has failed. They are not cheap, and only a few places are actually equipped to program them.
Check to see if the HomeLink transmitter blinks a red light when you press the button.
How many keys do you get. These bad boys only come from a few places in the US. They are not cheap. You might get lucky and find one in your neighborhood, but don't expect to walk into a Chrysler dealer or a Mercedes dealer and expect them to help with anything, especially when it comes to a new key 🔑.
Look at the exhaust. Is it modified? Does it have 4 catalytic converters, or just 2 up near the engine. Should be a resonator and muffler. While you're under the car, look at the control arm bushings. Mine have nearly 130,000 miles and are worn. Yours should look good a 44K.
Do you get the owners manual and factory cigarette lighter? Is the ashtray/coin holder broken yet? Does it have the factory radio, or has it been replaced with a new one. Does its color match the dash? Is the cup holder broken yet, or has it been replaced with a pocket? What about the bulkhead cover behind the seats? Does it have very many cracks or broken pieces from the seats going back too hard on them yet? How is the headliner? Clean or did a 7 foot tall person with too much hair product own this car? What about the seat heaters? Have the bottom heaters quit working yet? Maybe only the backs work. Does the driver seat move like it should, including up/down? How's the glove compartment? Does it flop open like it's going to break yet? Or maybe the little strap that is supposed to retain it is still in place & working. Burnt out bulbs, if you try all the lights, including pulling the **** for the fog lights, does the indicator show a burned out bulb? Couple of reasons it might have tape over it, cheap LED bulbs for one. Look at the aim of the headlights. If they are aimed at the ground, the bulbs are probably in upside down. A quick paint of the bumper and hood is $1000+, how's the chips? Are the fog lights broken or cracked yet? Do you get the factory engine cover, or has someone removed it to install an aftermarket cold air induction system? Does it have the original supercharger pulley (steel) or a smaller aftermarket pulley (aluminum).
I could go on, but consider hiring one of the popular Crossfire mechanics like Brian Hoffman in Florida to scope it out for you.
If you check it out with a code reader, be sure it's one designed for the Mercedes SLK32 R170 platform. If it's just a generic scanner, you will miss the important Mercedes specific codes.
With that mileage, if everything is good, probably not an awful price at all.
good luck! Welcome to the Chrysler Crossfire SRT6 brotherhood lol.
Last edited by Esinclair; Jan 27, 2025 at 12:51 PM.
Reason: Forgot to add something
IMHO, it is real important to NOT allow the rear deck lid to slam shut. That is what leads to the cracked mounts. Lower it gently by hand and push it shut. There are aftermarket hydraulic struts available (relatively cheap) if the oems are no longer doing the job.
I bought my SRT6 in 2008 with 8500 miles for $21k knowing it needed a grand worth of door bodywork and painting due to an attempted break-in. The driver's door had the damage.
IMHO, it is real important to NOT allow the rear deck lid to slam shut. That is what leads to the cracked mounts. Lower it gently by hand and push it shut. There are aftermarket hydraulic struts available (relatively cheap) if the oems are no longer doing the job.
I bought my SRT6 in 2008 with 8500 miles for $21k knowing it needed a grand worth of door bodywork and painting due to an attempted break-in. The driver's door had the damage.
looks great. I had to replace my struts, but still, if you drop it from more than a inch or two, but under maybe 18", that lid will SLAM. I have a problem with my wife slamming mine. I've asked her to keep her hands off. She doesn't get it. She dropped it Monday. She said, here, I'll let you close it, then dropped it. How am I supposed to act? I don't snap at my wife. I told her, leave it open, I'll close it and she slams it. To be quite honest, I don't like it when she dinks with the air vents, or anything. She doesn't take the car seriously at all. Her car is all kinds of fouled up, spiIled drinks, food, scrapes down the sides etc. I park where I don't have to squeeze in and we're able to open the door so we don't scuff the speaker grills with our shoes. She doesn't get it. I'd prefer to get out and open the door for her so she doesn't drag her shoes across the speakers or the door panels. Ugh. It's like shoes in my other car. No street shoes allowed on my expensive, polished carbon fiber floors. I wear driving shoes and they don't touch the pavement. The guy I bought the SRT-6 from carried a brief case with his house shoes and changed out to get in the car. They are custom floor mats with red SRT-6 logos embroidered into them and red trim. I'm not that ****, but I mention it because of how clean the car was when I got it. He was an AMG collector but was sick and dying, selling off his collection with tears in his eyes. He didn't tell me how sick he was till after I bought the car. I am kinda **** about the car. I had a roommate maliciously scratch up the hood and bumper. It cost me $1000 to paint it. She also keyed the passenger door. Expensive roommate for sure. She was mad because I served her with an eviction.
So, new struts are great, but people who simply don't care, are a tough thing to address. They can still drop the lid from a foot up and it will slam. I gently lower it from about 2 inches and that's it. Otherwise, too low, it won't latch. Pushing it shut once it's resting on the lock doesn't close it and it will rattle. Again, ugh.
Slamming is definitely a problem, especially with that heavy wing. It was dropping on its own which is why I replaced the struts, but I still lower it and push it shut. If it rattles, try a little black tape around the "hook" in the rear panel.
I guess I am fortunate, after 48 years my wife understands I am **** about my cars. I let her do whatever she wants to her Lincoln and I just grimace. But my two Crossies and the Maserati Ghibli are in the garage, under covers, and well maintained. I do wear my regular shoes to drive them, though, but keep them well vacuumed out. I have the custom Crossfire floor mats that were offered online about 15 years ago - bought them and stored the oems. I also live in an area where most shopping is at centers with large lots, so I can park 100' away from anyone. But, as you know, you come back to your car and the shabbiest beater in the lot is parked next to you anyway.
Hint: Never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself. (Important early lesson in my life.)
Way too many cases of busted rear hatch windows (I've seen here over the years) in our forum. One time with any one owner is way too many. You are correct in wanting to do it yourself, it costs way too much to find and replace that hatch window.
I wish I knew an easy way to check for water under the Styrofoam block in the trunk. They get water in them and that can trash the central locking pump.
Its easy! Get a piece of A4 paper and slide it down the gap between the foam block and the metal floor/bodywork. It will hit the bottom of the trunk. Pull it back and and see if its dry or wet!
Slamming is definitely a problem, especially with that heavy wing. It was dropping on its own which is why I replaced the struts, but I still lower it and push it shut. If it rattles, try a little black tape around the "hook" in the rear panel.
I guess I am fortunate, after 48 years my wife understands I am **** about my cars. I let her do whatever she wants to her Lincoln and I just grimace. But my two Crossies and the Maserati Ghibli are in the garage, under covers, and well maintained. I do wear my regular shoes to drive them, though, but keep them well vacuumed out. I have the custom Crossfire floor mats that were offered online about 15 years ago - bought them and stored the oems. I also live in an area where most shopping is at centers with large lots, so I can park 100' away from anyone. But, as you know, you come back to your car and the shabbiest beater in the lot is parked next to you anyway.
Hint: Never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself. (Important early lesson in my life.)
Where did you purchase the replacement struts. Mine are warn out and the ones on eBay ?????? not sure they really fit.
Valuation of a SRT6 Crossfire
Way too many cases of busted rear hatch windows (I've seen here over the years) in our forum. One time with any one owner is way too many. You are correct in wanting to do it yourself, it costs way too much to find and replace that hatch window. 
