IC Pump Fail? How do I know for sure?
OK, I believe my IC pump has failed. I think it happened at the track a couple weeks ago. I had my best run (12.8 ET) then a couple lousy runs (13.3 and 13.5). I initially blamed it on my lousy driving. But then I began to notice that all the power I got from my added CAI and SC pulley seemed to have disappeared.
The car still had power, but not like it did before I ran that 12.8. Heck, it was breaking loose the back tires with the traction control on, and without me even trying. Now I need to push it to get it to squeal, or to engage the traction control.
My suspicions really set in tonight at the track. I had 5 runs, and not a one of them better than 13.3 ET!! Hells bells, I got 13.3 with the car entirely stock. There's got to be something wrong. Sure, the temps have gone up since my 13.3 stock days, but the temps were the same today as when I ran the 12.8. Even the humidity was close. So I should have been running A LOT better.
Between runs I checked my the temp of my intake plenum (right next to the SRT-6 letters). My first couple runs it was 130 degrees and climbing. I took a break for an hour and let it cool down to 89 degrees, but a break down on the track while I was in the burn out box left me idling and the temps shot back up. I ran a 13.5 after that.
So all of this sounds like my IC pump has failed. But how can I tell FOR SURE?
I want to know before I go to the dealer and get them to replace it. Especially since I will probably have to remove my SC pulley and CAI and put it back to stock before taking it in...
The car still had power, but not like it did before I ran that 12.8. Heck, it was breaking loose the back tires with the traction control on, and without me even trying. Now I need to push it to get it to squeal, or to engage the traction control.
My suspicions really set in tonight at the track. I had 5 runs, and not a one of them better than 13.3 ET!! Hells bells, I got 13.3 with the car entirely stock. There's got to be something wrong. Sure, the temps have gone up since my 13.3 stock days, but the temps were the same today as when I ran the 12.8. Even the humidity was close. So I should have been running A LOT better.
Between runs I checked my the temp of my intake plenum (right next to the SRT-6 letters). My first couple runs it was 130 degrees and climbing. I took a break for an hour and let it cool down to 89 degrees, but a break down on the track while I was in the burn out box left me idling and the temps shot back up. I ran a 13.5 after that.
So all of this sounds like my IC pump has failed. But how can I tell FOR SURE?
I want to know before I go to the dealer and get them to replace it. Especially since I will probably have to remove my SC pulley and CAI and put it back to stock before taking it in...
Does not sound like IC pump failure.
When mine went there was no mistake - it felt like the supercharger was completely shut off. You could not pass a Prius if you tried.
Typically there was no problem from a dead stop - but cruising at hwy speed then trying accelerating there was zero boost about 50% of the time.
When mine went there was no mistake - it felt like the supercharger was completely shut off. You could not pass a Prius if you tried.
Typically there was no problem from a dead stop - but cruising at hwy speed then trying accelerating there was zero boost about 50% of the time.
yeah that doesnt sound like the ic pump. sorry man it looks like your going to have to search around that engine. if it was the ic pump you would be running ALOT slower
I haven't noticed uneven boosting or surging, but I have noticed that it is unpredictable. Sometimes its there, sometimes (most times) its not. Maybe my clutch isn't engaging properly.
Originally Posted by tom2112
I haven't noticed uneven boosting or surging, but I have noticed that it is unpredictable. Sometimes its there, sometimes (most times) its not. Maybe my clutch isn't engaging properly.
My first thought, was overheating between runs, then, the belt slipping enough to cut your times, and you would know if the clutch was slipping, the smell would be noticeable...
Well, I finally had some time to play with the car. It's still misbehaving, but I did take the time to verify that the pulley was torqued down to the proper spec, and that it was properly gapped.
Of course, it was. So no love there. Tomorrow, I'll have to remember to bring my laptop home so I can plug it in and see if there are any codes to pull.
Of course, it was. So no love there. Tomorrow, I'll have to remember to bring my laptop home so I can plug it in and see if there are any codes to pull.
You can actually feel the IC Pump if you turn your front wheels all the way to one direction and open the little "door" on the inside of the passengers front wheel well. You can peek inside with a flashlight and see the IC Pump. You can touch it and see if you feel the pump running. It will have a slight vibration from water passing through it.
The issue sounds like typical heat soak. The heat slows them down so much that I refuse to go to the track until the temps go back down!!
Good Luck~
The issue sounds like typical heat soak. The heat slows them down so much that I refuse to go to the track until the temps go back down!!
Good Luck~
Tom, I may be talking completely out of my butt here but what about the MAF and/or MAP sensors? I know if the MAF is dirty or oil stained (like from excessive oiling of the K&N's) it will definitely kill power. I remember reading something about 'oily MAF issues' somewhere around here but darned if I can find the thread.
Since the car doesn't go into limp mode but just seems powerless not to mention not posting any codes I wonder if it's just dirty?
Good Luck!!
Since the car doesn't go into limp mode but just seems powerless not to mention not posting any codes I wonder if it's just dirty?
Good Luck!!
Kurts, that sounds very plausible. Since it is losing power, but not so significantly that it seems like the supercharger is totally unengaged. I can hear the SC kick on. It seem a bit unpredictable though, which is why I thought it might not be torqued down or gapped correctly.
So: how do I check the MAF? Where is it, and what's it look like?
So: how do I check the MAF? Where is it, and what's it look like?
Originally Posted by tom2112
Kurts, that sounds very plausible. Since it is losing power, but not so significantly that it seems like the supercharger is totally unengaged. I can hear the SC kick on. It seem a bit unpredictable though, which is why I thought it might not be torqued down or gapped correctly.
So: how do I check the MAF? Where is it, and what's it look like?
So: how do I check the MAF? Where is it, and what's it look like?
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...349#post261349
Tom, download the SRT-6 service manual here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=13875
The MAF assy. is mounted right on top of the throttle body, right in front of the Needswings hose that attaches there. The removal instructions sound fairly straightforward though the manual tells you to "check for any broken mounting clips" so I'd assume you'd have to be gentle when unclipping the assy.
!
Everything you need to know about both the MAF & the MAP is located in Sec. 14, Fuel System, Fuel Injection of the manual.
I found something about this issue on the Inmotion website. You can read about it here:
http://www.inmotionusa.com/faqs.htm
I'm thinking it might be worth your time to remove that puppy, clean it up & see if anything changes. If not, maybe it's toast & will have to be replaced.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=13875
The MAF assy. is mounted right on top of the throttle body, right in front of the Needswings hose that attaches there. The removal instructions sound fairly straightforward though the manual tells you to "check for any broken mounting clips" so I'd assume you'd have to be gentle when unclipping the assy.
Everything you need to know about both the MAF & the MAP is located in Sec. 14, Fuel System, Fuel Injection of the manual.
I found something about this issue on the Inmotion website. You can read about it here:
http://www.inmotionusa.com/faqs.htm
I'm thinking it might be worth your time to remove that puppy, clean it up & see if anything changes. If not, maybe it's toast & will have to be replaced.
Thanks a lot fellas. That's some really helpful info.
I will check the MAF first. What should I clean it with? Brake cleaner? Alcohol? Water?
The MAF sensor measures air flow, right? Does the MAP sensor measure pressure?
I will check the MAF first. What should I clean it with? Brake cleaner? Alcohol? Water?
The MAF sensor measures air flow, right? Does the MAP sensor measure pressure?
Boost leak?? I think that's another explanation since you're still getting power, just not as much. A broken IC pump as everyone has said would result in a lot lower ETs, and would probably happen during the run itself as the SC is heating up.
Maybe check the gaskets on the intake manifold and replace them, maybe something's leaking
Maybe check the gaskets on the intake manifold and replace them, maybe something's leaking
Cleaning the little devils, hmmmm............
Now I'm at a loss, Tom! Alcohol's probably not a bad guess but doesn't cut oil worth a darn. Pretty safe though.........
Yup, MAF - air flow; MAP - air pressure.
Now I'm at a loss, Tom! Alcohol's probably not a bad guess but doesn't cut oil worth a darn. Pretty safe though.........
Yup, MAF - air flow; MAP - air pressure.
An update.....I Googled "cleaning a Mercedes MAF sensor" & came up with some interesting answers. Give it a shot Tom!



