Ok I know this has been covered a number of times throughout this forum, cause I have used everyones advice to try and pinpoint why my engine light keeps coming on. I thought I finally fixed it today but right after I passed the 35 mile mark in testing the light came on again. This is what I have done already by the advice given by many others throughout this forum.

I have removed all electrical connections looking for corrosion.None really found, minor carbon build up on the inside of the pump itself behind the 3 screws. I cleaned it up and put it back to gether had code cleared....it tripped within 3 miles.

I have popped the rivets on the back side of the pump checking the fome filter side of it, had some carcoal stains on it but didnt see anything really.

replaced syllanoid just below the check valve today, which after clearing the code today and driving 35 miles I thought it was fixed....my mistake.

I took the check valve off, a mechanic told me if you can blow air and feel it through both ends its bad, mine isnt i dont believe because i can only blow through it on one side and NOT the other.

Ive started the car and put my hand on the pump feeling it wind up, the vibration anyway and I think the pump is good, it doesnt make any whining noices at all.

Im going to take the pump apart tomorrow and look at the blades and see if its actually moving as it should.

Ive read people talk about a fuse or a relay...but I cant find either of those and there are no diagrams I can find to point me in the right direction.

So Im at a loss, because Im trying to sell the car and I have to get that pesky check engine light to stop. My friend owns a delership and he cant sell it for me with the light. I wouldnt ask him to anyway.

So if anyone can help me diagnose this problem It would be greatly appreciated. The only thing I can think of is spending $250 on a pump....

 

The Relay Control Module is under the hood near the battery. The pump relay is in the Relay Control Module. Sometimes the contacts on this relay get burnt and do not make contact and the pump does not come on. Or the contacts weld together and the pump runs continuously. You say the pump works, does it work for maybe 30 seconds and then shut off as it should? What is the code?

 

yes the pump does as you ask. Ironic that you post this cause I just came across it a min. ago and am going to attack the RCM tomorrow. Once I found the pictures of where it was located and what it looked like I knew exactly where to go. My problem is that when I had opened that box before it didnt look like any other relay switch Ive had to replace on other vehichles and it left me confused. I'll check back tomorrow. Thanks so much for responding it is really apprectiated that you actually answered my question instead of telling me to do a search on the forum to which I have already done and read so much my eyes bleed.

 

That old Canadian gets a bit soft at times.

 

Ok I just pulled out the RCM and nothing looks out of place. all the soldiering points look solid and I didnt see anything else that would throw up a red flag. Frustrating.

 

wasnt there some sort of bypass that some aftermarket company makes that was mentioned in this forum some where?

 

What is the code????????Woody

 

Look closely at the contacts of relay 5. If they look like this


You need to clean the contacts or replace the relay.

 

Ill have to pull it back out again. Although when I did that today, it cleared the code, at least turned the light off. and I drove 75 miles. Which is twice as far as the last and all I did was unplug the RCM to look at it as you all suggested. I started and stopped the car more than once but not sure what the typical drive cycle is, cause I only just heard of that yesterday.

 

Where exactly is the relay so that I can clean it. Right now I cant seem to find it

 

It is in the RCM, and you can recognize because it has a different number on it than the other relays. It is rated for much more amperage than the others ........

 

ok..thx I will see if I can identify it now. If i have any questions I will post back.

 

It is the far right relay in the picture from post #2 ...........

 

ok..I have located the rcm..i aslo noticed three silver squares. Are these silver squares soposed to have two nipples on each one or are they soposed to be smoothed out across all three.

 

when I first purchased the car i turned it off and it would not start for a while. I was just hoping that it would not do it again. Im guessing that this is the problem. After that is when my check engine light came on and it was referring to the secondary injection..

 

My best advice is to PM tighed1 and arrange for a swap on the RCM.
He likes to see $5 or so in the package with your RCM to cover the cost
of mailing a repaired one ( with the me so horny mod too ) back to you.
( don't send a check, send the $5-$10 bill, he spends it on beer )
I just sent the spare ( thanks rayth !! ) I had to him today, figuring he knows more about them than I do ...

 

Three separate squares, do not have the solder run across to the next square.

Your first question here just appeared from nowhere and I had to search your posts to find your problems, we are not mind readers and you may get the wrong answer if you do not add the problem to your initial posts in a new thread.

Please restate your problems as you may have fixed some.

The starting issue MAY be covered here, maybe not.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

 

Through the P410 code again. Sure enough contacts on relay are black again. This will be the third time I will have to clean the contacts. Seems to last about four months. Is there anything that can be applied to the contacts after cleaning to help stop this from reacuring?

 

Hi! The relay contacts may be too damaged to clean properly, and/or the load going through them is way above the contact tolerances. I would see if a swap is in order (not the typical swap, one with clean contacts so yours can be repaired and put back into use) I would think this swap would cost some more to cover the costs associated with a relay and such. This new module would only treat the irrepairable contacts, not a high current issue)

 

Thanks onehundred80! This was very helpful in resolving my 410 issue. Once I got past the intimidating rat nest of wires it was very easy. Removing the RCM from the tub was easier than I thought. I simply pulled up on the right side and it rotated toward the firewall. From there I was able to remove the connectors with ease.