Originally Posted by MrMoPar

I was going to buy this one till I found my SRT6 in Miami for $12,400.

The car was purchased from copart, and if you have ever dealt with copart, you buy on limited info. When they say it will crank, run, move, thats all it means. Not that it is in great condition or road worthy.

When he got it, it sounded bad. Yes it would crank and run, but on inspection, the original block had spun crank bearings.

He was not aware of the engine differences, so he used an NA short block. A short block is the block, crank, rods, pistons, cam (internal parts). Sometimes will include the oil pan. Basically, NA bottom end, and SRT6 top end.

He has put 10,000 miles on it. 10/1 versus 9/1 compression does not mean it will immediately blow up. While not the best route by any means, he is honest about its condition. The occasional hardstart is due to the slightly different cam profile and what the SRT6 computer is looking for. You have to remember that the knock sensors are so sensitive, it will pull the excessive NA timing if it detects any knock, and it is not throwing P0300 or any specific cylinder misfire codes.

He is including the original block, crank, rods, pistons, and from what I saw, the block and crank can be reconditioned.

The esp/bas light is on from either a bad or disconnected wheel sensor.

It is a clean vehicle for the money, if I had an extra $7k or so, I would get it.