SRT with NA short block.
Read the description, could be scary when pushed to the limit...
Chrysler : Crossfire Chrysler : Crossfire | eBay
<<To get the vehicle back on the road, a short block from a "Limited Crossfire" was used. All components were tore down, cleaned and inspected, and reassembled using all new gaskets. Other than the short block, all of the SRT-6 engine parts were used. Everything was sealed and torqued to factory specs.>>
Chrysler : Crossfire Chrysler : Crossfire | eBay
<<To get the vehicle back on the road, a short block from a "Limited Crossfire" was used. All components were tore down, cleaned and inspected, and reassembled using all new gaskets. Other than the short block, all of the SRT-6 engine parts were used. Everything was sealed and torqued to factory specs.>>
No issue there..... it is listed as a Rebuild/Rebuildable title..... the only thing I am picking on him for is the term "short" block.... I am pretty sure that the NA block and the SRT block are the same size.... is there a difference???
Originally Posted by MikeR
No issue there..... it is listed as a Rebuild/Rebuildable title..... the only thing I am picking on him for is the term "short" block.... I am pretty sure that the NA block and the SRT block are the same size.... is there a difference???
But I still wouldn't trust it.
Originally Posted by MikeR
No issue there..... it is listed as a Rebuild/Rebuildable title..... the only thing I am picking on him for is the term "short" block.... I am pretty sure that the NA block and the SRT block are the same size.... is there a difference???
after actually going to the ebay ad and checking it out....sounds like he used the entire long block from the limited as he refers to different cam profiles. sounds like he threw the blower and associated parts on to an n/a motor.
A short block usually represents everything associated with the block below the heads: crank, bearings, con rods, pistons and cam are all potentially from the limited. I assume that he is running the limited crank, bearings and cam but the SRT pistons and con rods. But would need to ask some specific questions to be certain. Otherwise, he would likely have sensor and compression issues.
If you look at his feedback you will see that he parted out another crossfire.
A few good questions would be: What caused the spun bearing and was this addressed during the repair? Were the bearings on the con rods replaced with new? How many miles on the limited? Has the car ever been in a crash, i'm thinking front end collision.
If you look at his feedback you will see that he parted out another crossfire.
A few good questions would be: What caused the spun bearing and was this addressed during the repair? Were the bearings on the con rods replaced with new? How many miles on the limited? Has the car ever been in a crash, i'm thinking front end collision.
Originally Posted by TommyT
"Short block" refers to the block and rotating assymbly......"long block" would include heads and intake manifold along with various other items
thanks for edumacating me....
The last "long block" I installed didn't come with an intake. The only difference I saw were the heads and oil pan included. I guess it depends who you buy them from.
James
James
Originally Posted by James1549
The last "long block" I installed didn't come with an intake. The only difference I saw were the heads and oil pan included. I guess it depends who you buy them from.
James
James
Originally Posted by James1549
The last "long block" I installed didn't come with an intake. The only difference I saw were the heads and oil pan included. I guess it depends who you buy them from.
James
James
Also very true I have dealt with some that did and some that didnt.
I am under the assumption that the SRT bottom end was built so much more stronger than the NA. Surprised the NA parts are holding up as long as they have.
SRT rods and pistons, if swapped who did the balance job or is it a NA as someone stated????????? Yeah a good doner car. Weekend.........Weeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Woody
Woody
Originally Posted by BLACKSRT-6
A short block usually represents everything associated with the block below the heads: crank, bearings, con rods, pistons and cam are all potentially from the limited. I assume that he is running the limited crank, bearings and cam but the SRT pistons and con rods. But would need to ask some specific questions to be certain. Otherwise, he would likely have sensor and compression issues.
If you look at his feedback you will see that he parted out another crossfire.
A few good questions would be: What caused the spun bearing and was this addressed during the repair? Were the bearings on the con rods replaced with new? How many miles on the limited? Has the car ever been in a crash, i'm thinking front end collision.
If you look at his feedback you will see that he parted out another crossfire.
A few good questions would be: What caused the spun bearing and was this addressed during the repair? Were the bearings on the con rods replaced with new? How many miles on the limited? Has the car ever been in a crash, i'm thinking front end collision.
Joe Greenwood
Baton Rouge roadster
I was going to buy this one till I found my SRT6 in Miami for $12,400.
The car was purchased from copart, and if you have ever dealt with copart, you buy on limited info. When they say it will crank, run, move, thats all it means. Not that it is in great condition or road worthy.
When he got it, it sounded bad. Yes it would crank and run, but on inspection, the original block had spun crank bearings.
He was not aware of the engine differences, so he used an NA short block. A short block is the block, crank, rods, pistons, cam (internal parts). Sometimes will include the oil pan. Basically, NA bottom end, and SRT6 top end.
He has put 10,000 miles on it. 10/1 versus 9/1 compression does not mean it will immediately blow up. While not the best route by any means, he is honest about its condition. The occasional hardstart is due to the slightly different cam profile and what the SRT6 computer is looking for. You have to remember that the knock sensors are so sensitive, it will pull the excessive NA timing if it detects any knock, and it is not throwing P0300 or any specific cylinder misfire codes.
He is including the original block, crank, rods, pistons, and from what I saw, the block and crank can be reconditioned.
The esp/bas light is on from either a bad or disconnected wheel sensor.
It is a clean vehicle for the money, if I had an extra $7k or so, I would get it.
The car was purchased from copart, and if you have ever dealt with copart, you buy on limited info. When they say it will crank, run, move, thats all it means. Not that it is in great condition or road worthy.
When he got it, it sounded bad. Yes it would crank and run, but on inspection, the original block had spun crank bearings.
He was not aware of the engine differences, so he used an NA short block. A short block is the block, crank, rods, pistons, cam (internal parts). Sometimes will include the oil pan. Basically, NA bottom end, and SRT6 top end.
He has put 10,000 miles on it. 10/1 versus 9/1 compression does not mean it will immediately blow up. While not the best route by any means, he is honest about its condition. The occasional hardstart is due to the slightly different cam profile and what the SRT6 computer is looking for. You have to remember that the knock sensors are so sensitive, it will pull the excessive NA timing if it detects any knock, and it is not throwing P0300 or any specific cylinder misfire codes.
He is including the original block, crank, rods, pistons, and from what I saw, the block and crank can be reconditioned.
The esp/bas light is on from either a bad or disconnected wheel sensor.
It is a clean vehicle for the money, if I had an extra $7k or so, I would get it.
Originally Posted by MrMoPar
I was going to buy this one till I found my SRT6 in Miami for $12,400.
The car was purchased from copart, and if you have ever dealt with copart, you buy on limited info. When they say it will crank, run, move, thats all it means. Not that it is in great condition or road worthy.
When he got it, it sounded bad. Yes it would crank and run, but on inspection, the original block had spun crank bearings.
He was not aware of the engine differences, so he used an NA short block. A short block is the block, crank, rods, pistons, cam (internal parts). Sometimes will include the oil pan. Basically, NA bottom end, and SRT6 top end.
He has put 10,000 miles on it. 10/1 versus 9/1 compression does not mean it will immediately blow up. While not the best route by any means, he is honest about its condition. The occasional hardstart is due to the slightly different cam profile and what the SRT6 computer is looking for. You have to remember that the knock sensors are so sensitive, it will pull the excessive NA timing if it detects any knock, and it is not throwing P0300 or any specific cylinder misfire codes.
He is including the original block, crank, rods, pistons, and from what I saw, the block and crank can be reconditioned.
The esp/bas light is on from either a bad or disconnected wheel sensor.
It is a clean vehicle for the money, if I had an extra $7k or so, I would get it.
The car was purchased from copart, and if you have ever dealt with copart, you buy on limited info. When they say it will crank, run, move, thats all it means. Not that it is in great condition or road worthy.
When he got it, it sounded bad. Yes it would crank and run, but on inspection, the original block had spun crank bearings.
He was not aware of the engine differences, so he used an NA short block. A short block is the block, crank, rods, pistons, cam (internal parts). Sometimes will include the oil pan. Basically, NA bottom end, and SRT6 top end.
He has put 10,000 miles on it. 10/1 versus 9/1 compression does not mean it will immediately blow up. While not the best route by any means, he is honest about its condition. The occasional hardstart is due to the slightly different cam profile and what the SRT6 computer is looking for. You have to remember that the knock sensors are so sensitive, it will pull the excessive NA timing if it detects any knock, and it is not throwing P0300 or any specific cylinder misfire codes.
He is including the original block, crank, rods, pistons, and from what I saw, the block and crank can be reconditioned.
The esp/bas light is on from either a bad or disconnected wheel sensor.
It is a clean vehicle for the money, if I had an extra $7k or so, I would get it.
Last edited by TommyT; Dec 9, 2011 at 09:34 PM.



