He's not having sex with your girlfriend.

 

Well, not yet at least.

 

Careful. You never know where's he's been. LOL.

 

Nitrous is cheating... Turbos are cheating... Supercharger are cheating... Tunes are cheating... Intercoolers are cheating... Pulleys are cheating... Killerchillers are cheating... Sprintboosters are cheating... Gear swaps are cheating... Bags of ice are cheating...

Did I miss anything???

Cheating is only cheating when somebody whines and you my friend can no longer whine... No supercharger, no whine... So you and your two cheating turbos get back to whistling!!! LOL

 

Poor Steve.

 

Any details on the nitrous,1/4 miles times any issues with spraying thru the supercharger thinking about a 35shot wet using the same setup you have.

 

And Steve is still in the 12's...

 

I ran a 35 shot a few times on the street to test the setup and everything worked well through the SC. When I finally made it to the track, the bottle was almost empty, so there was no difference in my times. I was also going ultra conservative with it by not spraying until 2nd gear. I'll have to spray in 1st if I want the times to drop. That was a month ago.

Since then the bottle's been refilled and the jets have been changed out to a 75 shot. Due to cold weather, vacation, and spending too much time upgrading the brakes, I haven't been back to the track or even tested the 75 shot on the street. Rain is in the forecast this weekend, so it will likely be another couple weeks before I'm able to make any headway with it.

 

So really spraying a 35 wet I should be ok ,I will be running a window.switch but only using mine in third and fourth gears only,also my mods are a imotion tune,code 3 pulley needwings cai,needwings ported manifolds and larger heat exchanger I was thinking a 62 mm pulley but the car is already.a beast but I just.want a little extra power,I will be following your install its clean and simple.

 

Also keep up the great wrk

 

Also with using such a small shot would you recommend a window switch,my purge will be spraying my heat exchanger.

 

Window switch is absolutely necessary in my opinion.

 

Ok thats good enough for me time to get to wrk thanks for the valuable info.

 

how else would you get the window down to wave at all your adoring fans?

 

Without a window switch, which cuts the nitrous on and off at a specific RPM range, you will be spraying below 2,800 RPM's and during shifts. The "during shifts" part may be true or false depending on how you set it up. Some kits see the TB close a little during shifts and kill the nitrous until the TB is opened back up and the correct voltage is reached. Other kits that run off the gas pedal will receive a full 5 volts during shifts, so the nitrous and fuel will be flowing full steam even though the RPM's are dropping like flies.

Moreover, when you get to the point where you try to program the NMU (or equivalent) off the TB, shoot me a PM and I'll walk you through it. It's simple in theory, but far from it on our cars.


I have many fans -- all electric.

 

Great write up and explanation of your sound install. Thanks for theupdate on how its doing. Have you datalogged with itrunning yet? Is your fuel pump keeping up the pressure in the fuel rail?



I have been thinking about the window switch and how critical it is. Should there be a kill switch wired into the SC electric clutch so if the IC pumpfails it won't spray since your port is 3' in front of the SC? Were youthinking about moving the nozzle to the wye after testing it like you are doing?

This is mod is definitely on my list. Thanks.


What's a ball park for a self install "cheaters" mod like this, $700?

 

Yes, datalogs show plenty of fuel, timing, and good IAT's with the SL55 pump, TTM 550CC injectors, and stock HE and IC pump. If the fuel pressure was to drop, I have a FPSS (fuel pressure safety switch) tied into the ground to kill the nitrous (fail-safe).

As for the clutch, "what you talk'n about Willis"? An IC pump failing within a 11 sec run is pretty slim, and if it did it wouldn't matter. If the IAT's climb too high the SC will cut off and timing will be retarded. I'd feel the drop in power right away and know something was going on and abort the run anyway.

I think I've got around $800 in the kit and $50 in the install, but I went 100% used -- except for the fuel jets and the adjustable FPSS. Gotta love Craigslist, as this would be $1,300 easy if I was buying new.

 

10-4 on the Willis.

The quick search I did on window switch kits must not have included everything to make it all come together. finding good used parts to complete a project like this takes some time.

 

I recently removed the Zex NMU and Window Switch due to issues with the tranny slipping. After installing the new progressive controller and solenoids, the tranny was still slipping. Anyway, here's some photos of the new setup. By the way, the Zex setup was good for a 7.0 @ 100 MPH with slipping tranny.

I'm sorry for the crap photos.

IMG_20131211_213854_504_zps46f9b188.jpg


IMG_20131211_213926_218_zps0b859315.jpg

IMG_20131211_213848_011_zps75e4a106.jpg

IMG_20131211_213843_048_zpse2fecd28.jpg

IMG_20131211_213835_057_zps174f92a9.jpg

 

might do something like this once i get my stand alone/piggy back *not sure yet* and get all tuned up then mby