I did a search looking for a how to repair this problem and came up blank. Looking for help to fix this leak.

 

Try this one. (click)

 

Thanks 180 I got it now - seems like a simple fix.

 

A thorough version is done up as a PDF file. Click here.
I combined the late MikeR's posts with dedwards0323 post on the subject. I hope this will keep MikeR in the memories of members, we lost a great member last fall.

 

1/8th turn past snug if no NM torque wrench?

I have this 8.85 x in/lb so I'm sure im getting it wrong in the equation.


Anyone know how many inch lbs = Nm.

I have a wrench that reads in inch lbs. I bought it just to do this!

 

1 newton meter = 8.85074579 inches pound force

 

so 10NM = 88.5 inch /lb correct? It feels too tight!!

 

If you are reusing the aluminum bolts, I would advise the just snug, then 1/8 turn method for the small bolts.

 

i went and got steel bolts from the hardware store, but the thread that I read only talked about the small ones. I would have gotten the longer ones too, I must have missed that part somehow. Thanks for the amazingly quick response! This is my DD

 

The 10 N.m setting is only used on the main valve cover bolts and not on the small cover bolts.
10 N.m = 88.5 in. lbs. = 7.4 ft. lbs.

 

Any know the ID of the big hose that comes off the driver side breather cover to the TB MAF assembly? I had a hose and cut it 1 inch too short and now I can't find the damn thing.

Also, anyone know the length of the long bolts that go through the Breather Covers.

 

Just did this fix 2 days ago, real easy. As for the bolts, I ordered the valve cover bolt set from Needswings to ensure a perfect fit.

 

3/4" heater core hose (I like/use gates)

 

first off do not do this on the car, take them off and take your time cleaning them without debris falling into your exposed valvetrain


remove air intake
separate breather hoses
separate fuel line on drivers side (have rag ready to soak up fuel)
unbolt coils from valve covers, flip them downward and out of the way
remove vc outer bolts holding vc to head, do not remove access panel bolts yet
remove valve covers from car
wash, we put them in the parts washer overnight and let them soak, will make the job much easier
remove access panel bolts
remove access panels
clean thoroughly without scratching up the sealant areas, I use a plastic trim panel tool so I don't gouge the magnesium with a flat head screwdriver
I run a tap down into the access panel bolt holes to clear out old sealant and chase the threads
are all 4 pieces clean enough to eat off of? if not keep cleaning
lay access panel upside down on bench and apply a 3/16" bead of Mercedes rtv into the channel consistently all the way around
set access panel onto valve cover to seat
access panel bolts are there to hold the panels down while the sealant dries, do not over tighten them or you will pull out the threads in the valve cover and ruin your day
we use new ss bolts as the factory bolts are aluminum and tend to snap easily (so you don't overtighten and rip out lower vc threads)
install new lower vc gaskets
reinstall everything
enjoy


overall the job is a PITA due to all of the cleaning and mess involved, figure 1/2 hour to get them off the car, an easy hour each valve cover cleaning and another 1/2 hour to reinstall onto the car.


years ago when these motors were still new enough I used to do them all the time on exchange, now that the magnesium/aluminum alloy covers are oxidizing and pitting I no longer bother with them, i'm not sorry to not have to do them anymore I promise you. now all the originally installed valve covers are pitted enough that they are not worth coating as the pitting will still show through and look bad.

 

thanks for your input.