I thought it was my alternator
Nope, water pump
Have unit and the kit that ALA-FIRE recommended
Will also replace coolant
Any other pointers?? tips??? suggestions???
Thanks to all for their input

 

In case you didn't already see this :
Place each bolt as you remove it into the corresponding hole in the new pump.
When the old pump is removed, swap the bolts back to it.
Then install the new pump using the bolts from the same location.

 

Thanks
You are a great help
I was on to that
Old 60s backyard wrench
I was wondering about anti-sieze or such on the bolts going back in??

 

No, but if it were me, I would chase all the holes with the correct size metric tap.

 

Agreed about cleaning up the threads, but why not use an anti seize or a little PTFE paste sealant? I've heard the stories over the years about snapped off bolts, but not many stories out there about a bolt backing out or snapping off because anti seize or a little pipe sealant was used.

 

I mainly said NO because I have never trusted anything other than bare bolt to bare metal for the proper torque spec.

 

I'll have to say "ditto". You've never heard any one say, I was using a "toque wrench", an the bolt snapped off. Well...unless it was set on ft.lbs. instead of inch lbs....

 

I do understand that aspect of it, and the service manual doesn't tell us to use or not to use any type of compound. At only 26 ft.lbs. of torque for the water pump bolts, I personally wouldn't worry about it. You could back off from the torque spec.# a few ft. lbs. if using anti seize or sealant is a concern. Use 22 or 23#'s instead of 26. I've never had any problems over the years with this approach.

 

Good point. Another factor is that I don't have any anti-seize compound

 

The idler that bolts right to the water pump, some go around and try and find a tap and tap it out, most do not come with that hole tapped.
My bolt was a cut self tapping bolt, what I took out of the pulley and what I put back in, just held straight and easy and threaded back in.
Changed my water pump in hotel parking lot.
I get hell from others here that say you have to tap the hole, but they evidently have not seen a self tapping bolt before.
Maybe my 04 is a super special that has the rare self tapping bolt from the factory.
OoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOo

Didn't see anyone say anything about that bolt hole yet, letting you know, some freak out.
Really no big deal.

 

Probably use Loctite on that one, right?

 

No, as a self tapping it will be tighter than if taped.
As I said that was the bolt I had in mine.

 

I said loctite, not teflon tape.

 

I changed the water pump on the roadster a few weeks ago and the idler mount holes were not threaded on the new pump. I tapped them as the bolts that came out were not self tapping.

 

UPDATE
Started my project this am
Laid my tools out and replacement parts.
Point of removing the pump, different than my replacement
A 112 201 06 01 on the motor
A 112 201 09 01 replacement
I had bought it here long time ago for spare.
Now have to find a replacement.
Advice??
Thanks

 

What is different?
Do you already have old pump off to compare?

 

Old one almost off
Alternator mounts different
Small hose fitting on driver side sealed on good one, open on the wrong one.
I believe I bought off an ex-member here that clearing out old extra parts.
Oreily/auto zone have for $160.00 but worried about quality

 

You know you'd get the right one from Rob(Needswings). He has it at $135.95 +sh.

 

dinasrt
Thanks
Senior moment, forgot all about Rob and Needswings
Ordered
He beat local prices even with the 2-day shipping charge

 

I noticed this same issue when surfing water pumps for the SLK320 on the web. Two types are listed, one with 2 outlets and one with 3. The 2-outlet type seems to be for normally aspirated cars, and the 3-outlet type for the blower motor (probably for an oil cooler). Looked at the water pump in my NA Crossfire coupe and saw that there was a boss for a third outlet but it was sealed.