Hi all,
I just changed my IC pump and then performed an autopsy on the old, factory pump. The photos below show the shattered magnetic rotor. I suspect this has been like this for some time now. The car currently has 132,800km (82,500miles) on the odometer.

 

Good info. thanks!

 

We have seen photos like that years ago, with way less mileage on the car. CLICK
The problem was the sintered impellor which cracked due to stress at the sharp corners. They are probably using a plastic impellor now.

 

Hi all,

I replaced my original intercooler (IC) pump with a Bosch 0392022010 four days ago.
I was unable to purge it as I was unable to connect it to an external power source.
I have been on a few drives since and can report that I am still unsure if it is working as it is supposed to.
According to other accounts, when a new IC is installed there is a significant difference in the cars performance however i did not experience this performance boost at all.

After a drive this morning I took the temperate of the hoses with an infra red thermometer (see marked photo below). The go and return hoses to the IC pump are much lower so I am assuming the IC pump is working, right?
I also removed and checked Fuse 13 which I assume is for the IC pump and it too buzzed through so it is not blown.
Based on my findings can I assume the IC pump is working OK?

 

How long of a drive was this?

How many full throttle 0 to whatever runs did you make?

Seems odd both hoses to the intercooler are the same. I would suspect a full temperature engine with all things around the intercooler warmer than the fluid going into it would warm the coolant.

PS: It would also be interesting to see the temps of the two hoses at the smaller radiator for the intercooler. It would show us exactly how much it's cooled.

 

"I have been on a few drives since and can report that I am still unsure if it is working as it is supposed to."

When it's working you have a 350HP car and when it's not you have a 200HP car. When mine was intermittently working it was vary noticeable. Ugly noticeable.

 

The drive was for about 30 minutes and the temperature gauge needle was ever so slightly above the half way line.

Only one time did i have opportunity for a WOT test and I know for certain that the SC was working (Lucky the cat doesn't have wings else it would have got airborne. Haha).
Maybe the car is working as per normal? I just didn't feel much difference at all at lower speeds (0 - 40mph)?.
I was hoping or expecting that the new pump would make the car more responsive at the lower speeds.
I have never driven a SRT6 or supercharged vehicle prior so I am unsure what to expect. The throttle response is a bit "doughy" at low speeds up to about 40mph but after a fair press of the accelerator pedal and revs are above 2000rpm then the SC seem to kick in.
I should also add that we have had a bit of a heat wave here recently and most test drives where performed when the temperature was around 74 - 80 degrees F.

 

 

hi 180,
Please don't misunderstand me.
I am not seeking a rocket ship. I just want to confirm what I have is normal performance and there is nothing else I need to change to bring to original performance.
I am actually a fuddy duddy for originality. I even had a hard time mentally accepting, changing the spring clamps to worm drive clamps on my IC pump.

 

When fully warm at a stop sign nail the throttle to the floor. You should see/feel a hint of traction control and be going 60MPH in about 4.8 seconds.

 

I had to replace mine. I had the same symptoms. The car either ran at the full 330 horsepower or had what felt like 100-150 horsepower. After the car warmed up, the engine would shift randomly between the two different horsepowers.

They are very prone to breaking at any mileage. Fortunately, they are "only" around 100 bucks. That's cheap for a Crossfire part.

 

Thanks David M,
Quick question: Did you notice a significant increase in performance when you installed the new IC pump? Or did you just get the full 330HP more consistently?