Total miles is 80,000 but I found the reason, I think looks like the pulley lost some parts, No more tequila for me, should have had the husband check, LOL just shaking my damn head that I missed this. See the attached picture. I ordered a new pulley and belt

see the top pulley missing some of itself.
I would have expected the entire pulley to be gone not missing a few ...

 

That is the idler pulley and for sure why you are having problems. Luckily the belt and the pulley are inexpensive. Glad you figured it out and can enjoy your car again.

 

Ronman, thanks, deserves an oil change now...

 

I just purchased a serpentine belt kit for $170. It includes 2 idler pulleys, 1 idler tension pulley, and a MB belt. This is easy to install especially if the belt is already broken. The belt tensioner pulley comes with a tension restrainer pin that gets removed once the new pulleys and belt have been installed. Follow the installation instructions and you will be good for another 40K miles.
Cheers

 

Where did you source that kit?

 

You live in AZ I bought my kit in New England. Try AutohauAZ in the Phoenix area, they carry MB, BMW, VW, German car parts. I am sure they have these parts. My guess the reason your belt split is because one of your idler pulleys has a bad bearing and as a result it is no longer in alignment with the other pulleys. When you install the new pulleys and belt you will also notice a quieter running engine.
Good success.

 

Much thanks for the info.

 

I decided to stay with the stock SC pulley after all so I ended up installing DJ's 25 buck belt wrap, serviced the SC , installing the Belt saver from Chris while I am at it. Gates belt was tight and the tensioner is STRONG. I was thinking about going with a 65mm SC pulley but was not sure if you use a stock belt or not and I had already bought the Gates. My SC pulley is making some noise but its quieter now that's for sure. I am still looking for the correct "Boss" to take tension off the belt and where to place the 5mm drift it mentions to hold the tensioner while changing the belt. anyone help with that?

 

Vintage Bikes - I don't fully understand what you are trying to accomplish. I don't know what SC & DJ mean or belt wrap. If you want to replace your serpentine belt, idler pulleys and belt tensioner pulley you should buy the correct part numbers for your engine. The belt tensioner pulley is designed to put lots of tension on the belt. Before you can remove the belt the belt tensioner tension has to be released. The following you tube link demonstrates how this is done on a MB 3.2Liter engine . Using a breaker bar or long handle socket bar, the tension pulley is rotated to release the belt tension and allow installing a pin to temporarily lock it in the release position. The pin needs to be at least 1/8" dia or can be an allen wrench. The video shows how to install the pin which needs to be fully inserted in the hole on the tensioner. If you buy a new tensioner pulley it comes with a pin installed which gets removed after installing the belt. If your engine has high mileage, I highly recommend replacing the idler pulleys, belt tensioner pulley, and the serpentine belt.
Good success

 

Jack, thanks for the video sir. Just to share, SC ( supercharger) I was just being lazy last night, my bad. DJ has a mod ( 1 of many really) that give 30% more belt contact simply by adding a idler pulley above the alternator which I did yesterday. In the write ups on how to take tension off the belt they mention that my SRT6 has a different tensioner than the NA (Naturally Asperated) cars. I am having trouble finding the correct way to take tension off the belt and put the pin in to keep the tension off while doing work in that area. I have the car off the ground and may see it from the underside.

 

Good new is my tensioner is exactly like the one in the video so now I know the E7 in the center of the pulley is the correct way! I ma back at it, thanks Jack

Greg in Tn

 

Greg, You might want to check with J Barnes amx1397. He is very familiar with srt6's
Jack

 

There is a circular slot on the bottom of the front face, in the relaxed position there is a stop pin that stops the pulley arm from unwinding fully.
when you use a wrench to turn the arm against spring pressure a hole is exposed on the fixed body that attaches to the engine, it is in that hole that the 5mm pin is placed. This gives enough clearance for the belt to be routed around the pulleys, if the pulley arm was in the relaxed position there would not be enough clearance to put the belt on. Watch your fingers when using the pin, if it comes out you may trap your fingers and damage them severely.
Using the original belt with a belt wrap increases the load on all of the bearings of the pulleys, Ideally the idler tension arm should be in the same position as the OEM position to match the lives of the bearings. Some of these bearings are in expensive items, water pump, AC, SC pulley etc.
Extra tension on the belt will cost you in the end, sooner than the OEM setup.

 

I understand and have used a smaller Idler pulley with DJ's Mod and the tensioner is close to before the Mod. I never could find the place to place the drift pin but its all together with new pulleys, belt. I am checking in on making a few crank pulleys Mods in larger dimensions in the quest for more boost . .thank you.

 

FYI. Attachment shows the location of the tension retainer pin inserted in the pulley tension assembly. This is usually supplied installed when installing a new tensioner assembly. The pin is removed once the new belt has been placed in position and the pulley tension is temporarily relieved using a breaker bar. While holding the pulley tension with the breaker bar the pin can be removed. Slowly releasing the breaker bar force causes the belt to be tightened. Remove the breaker bar and start the engine to make certain the belt is properly tracking.