Being an avid Citroen owner, and Citroens' desire to go back to the earth from where they came, POR15 is regarded here as THE best rust repair and treatment. I belong to a french car forum, and many people have had success with it.
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31957

 

Sooo does this problem affect EVERY crossfire?

 

Unless they redesigned the door for 2007, I would think it will still be a potential "problem area".
Maybe that's the reason they stopped making the Crossfire in alabaster, because it really shows up on a white car.

 

Did I miss something, when did they stop making 'alabaster' Crossfires?

 

I believe alabaster was discontinued when they started making the silver ones.

 

Sooo has everybody checked and do you indeed have rust?

 

~ some do & some don't.

 

Sooo can you tell, I'm too lazy to check?

 

I just checked my weather strip this morning and I am also in the beginning phases of a rust problem. Who has the best prices on POR15? I don't need much, maybe a quart or so.

 

I ran across this provider: POR-15 Outlet They're in Mt. Vernon, TX not far East of Dallas. I've been working out there some. I may drop by and pick up a kit. I'll be checking my doors tomorrow after I wash the car.

Thanks Andrew for such great information, instructions and photos. You've saved many of us future heartaches and expense.

Oh! I meant to mention the colors available. Someone ask in a previous post.

 

POR15 experts,

I have stored my car for the winter, in my garage, in the Northeast. POR15 directions say to apply in temperatures over 50 degrees. I have pulled off the door strips, found a little rust, and dried the area. I plan to wait until April for the POR15 treatment (in warmer weather). Should I spray something on the seams from now until I treat, or just apply the POR now? Thanks.

 

i would use the por15 at this time... i would allow the first coat to dry over night & then apply a second coat the following day.

 

Andrew, do you think the more often someone washes their car, the more serious their rust problem might be? I mean I realize it's an issue "EVERY" Crossfire owner is going to have to deal with to some degree, but I'm trying to figure out why your doors looked so bad, and mine haven't started rusting yet. The only answer I could come up with is that you being "Mr.Clean" and all, your car has probably been washed at least 3 or 4 times as much as mine.
Now I'm not suggesting everybody go to the "Dry Cleaners" from now on when their car gets dirty, but when it rains or you wash your car, that rubber gasket is going to funnel any water that gets splashed on it directly to that exposed seam and keep it there. Maybe that's why even cars like JPRISTEL's car in Tempe AZ. looked the way it did when he made his post back in May of last year. Even though he lives in an arid climate, that "seal" successfully kept the moisture in, to work its magic.

 

Is it likely that the US cars have been sitting at the dockside in the salty air for longer periods that the european ones? They will also have made the long sea crossing. There again so will have any other import. Just for information when I inspected my doors the seal was retained by a very small amount of yellowish rubbery adhesive, not really enough to seal it completely but it looked like some attempt had been made.

 

Woody, that's a good point. But over the years I've noticed that cars residing near our coastal regions, tend to rust up high on the body, as opposed to down low like they do in the North Eastern states.
As I mentioned before, I too noticed a small amount of "caulking like" material beneath my rubber gasket also. But it did not exhibit any adhesive properties at all, and as you pointed out, it was rather sparse in nature.

 

I posted that question at slkworld.com and I'll let you know if anyone has the same problem. This TSB shows a rust problem on R170 SLK's that may apply to crossfires.

 

I took a look at my SLK32 and found surface corrosion and rust colored grit in the bottom of the door seal rail. Also found a couple spots on the side of the rail.

DSC_0002.jpg

 

Bazzle from Oz, also from the Benzworld forum.
I found your link on the SLKworld forum and cross posted to Benzworld.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...corrosion.html

I pulled my seals, luckily no rust BUT soap residue and both sides were damp.

Wiped them out with a damp rag, seals too, allowed to dry and sprayed Powerplus dewatering fluid in the recess (Powerplus leaves a light brown residue behind that doesn't seem to evaporate like CRC, WD40 kero based stuff).
Hopefully it won't hurt the seal but they will be easier to replace than to fix rust later.
Popped the seals back in.

Bazzle

 

Just used Rust Bullet today on both my lower doors to correct the rusting issue, I also drilled a number of 1/8 " holes along the lower weather strip rail to improve on water drainage (as it seems to collect and backup in this area) this turned out to be an easy fix that I know will last compared to a dealer trying to fix it. Trusting my skills and this forums helpful information makes for a fun drive.

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Can we make this thread a sticky?