My friend, I I think I will take you up on your offer. You being so kind I will make it a point to delve into those nether reaches (which I wouldn't do normally). I'll even try to make it a 'pay it forward' moment and take pictures and post here for others. Only thing before I accept your generous offering, are these bulbs going to cause a bulb out warning? If not, I graciously accept your offer.

BTW, how has those non-polarized caps worked for you, mine are still ROCKING (when I crank the stereo)...

 

Haaaaaa Damn, this is SUCH A GREAT IDEA! Of course the lights are that bright, too... Lets all try n figure out additional uses for these extremely bright (and in some cases, che... ooops, INEXPENSIVE) plate lights. OK, I will go second (since MrMiata found the first use)! How about lining up two rows of XF's down a long flat road/runway for an emergency landing strip during power outages, saving a few lives in the process!

 

For that whole $23 bucks.. when it warms up a little I'm thinking it's time to look the hood over on the underside to see if there is a decent way to mount a couple on a swtich.. would make great "trouble" lights if you had to replace a belt or cps or...

While we're on the subject of LED's.. anybody running this type fog light bulb? Thoughts on them?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...m=221156750384

 

Yes, I used them for over two years until I just recently replaced them with HID. Our newly found LP bulbs will provide more light then these but I used them for an aesthetic look anyway.

 

Thanks! Good to know they arent worth buying if you want function too..

 

Great minds think alike as I have been looking at the under hood light solution for years now. Something that is there all the time and maybe operated with a mercury switch. I still have the switch and light from my old 1965 Mercury, I had a light then why not now, mercury is a no no now I guess but who's to know know.

 

You had me wondering.. it's been forever since a dealt with a mercury switch.. and yes that was the thought to the lights but wasn't sure if you could get them.. seems you can..


10pcs Mercury Tilt Switch 0 8A 20V 103 | eBay

 

Not that one you posted here but this one is very bright
Just plug it in and your done

12V 100W 9006 Xenon Gas HID FogLight Light Bulbs 5000K 2pcs Super White 1pair | eBay

 

Thanks for the note and link VAlk..

One thing comes to mind though .. @100w is there any chance of cracking the lens?
I've read where a couple users "thought" they had just turned them on
and it happened. I had to wonder if high output bulbs like these (and extra heat) wasn't a cause with a cold lens.

 

And the Mercury switch contacts will never burn out, just don't ask them to do any more than the current rating specifies. They have been known to explode under those circumstances. I would wrap the switch assembly in plastic wrap for a few test activations, if it explodes you'll contain all those little bits of mercury that'll get into way too many things it isn't supposed to be in. Just a thought!

 

This ad is BS, this statement ( Bulbs Produces High Wattage Light Output with a Standard Watt Current Drawing ) says it all. I was bit by this bug decades ago and learned. Shysters have been selling this type of cheap china knockoffs for decades. Its your money, I would suggest you invest in a bulb you can address to a manufacturer if there is a problem. Just in case, In the case of the LED plate lights I bought, I made sure the design has been around for a while and the LED segments all are still lighting after a long period of time so if you bring up that post, I've already explained it here.

Cheers!


I installed the high beam bulbs of a 4 headlight system (9005 I believe) in the fog light assembly because the bulb output is about 10 watts higher AND they do not have the painted tip on the bulb. This added wattage and the lack of paint on the tip greatly increases the light output. The only thing I had to do (since the base tabs/diameter is different) is wiggle/twist kittywhumpus until it seated/locked into place. I have yet had any moisture/water intrude into the assembly (I do still have the access doors in the fender well) and they are SUPER BRIGHT, without exceeding any current and/or exaggerating any claim of light output ratings. I had these bulbs as spares so they didn't even cost me anything (over the years I got replacement lamp assemblies for one of my old cars since gone), I hardly ever throw anything out!

 

The very BEST underhood light I have ever seen is the one that came in my old 1990 GMC suburban - it mounts to the firewall, and has a 40 foot cord with a winding handle. The removable light portion has a magnetic pad on the back which makes it nice for changing tires on a dark night.

88 98 Chevy GMC Truck Underhood Trouble Light Tested Works | eBay

 

Totally cool accessory to have! I'll have to ask my brother if his surburban has that. I am sure it is a much newer model but DANG (for the text nanny) that thing is HUGE and heavy (the surburban, you pervs)...

 

For $5.75 a pair I'll buy the as you call them "cheap china knockoffs" any day
They have been in my car for more than a year and have worked with no issues.
They also look better than those fine name brand "Sylvania" piece of **** bulbs which cost a lot more and produce that boring OEM light output.
Oh ya and I also previously spent $50 on Sylvania Silverstars and I saw no difference at all so they went right back to Autozone for a refund.


Bit by the bug ?? Please explain

 

Yeah bit by the bug meant I was talked into a set of these (not these exactly but the ones that promised 100 watts of output for the standard current draw). People swore by them and convinced me to get a set. One night I was driving home and the headlights blew out. Pulling over, I check the bulbs. They were burned out and MELTED in their cheap bases. Good thing I had high beams, I was quite a distance from home. I hated driving with highs on blinding people. You see (as you may already know but in case someone who reads this might not know) the high and low bulbs have a coded plug system that prevents you from using the wrong bulb in the wrong location. If it would have been possible I would have just moved the highs over to the lows position and it would have helped. The high beams are not only a brighter bulb but the are also aimed higher and more centered. They also do not have that painted top on them so more light is shot out the front/top of them down the road. Anyway, I never let that happen again. It was a good thing only the bulb bases melted and not the wiring plugs. That would have involved cutting/splicing replacements into the wiring. Never good on stranded auto wiring without soldering and taping the heck out of it to keep water/corrosion out. Anyway, like I said earlier, its your money, if you want em just buy 2 or three sets and keep a set in the car in case they perform like the POS knockoffs out there. BTW, with my SS Ultra sets, I got them off ebay for the truck (9007 dual filament high n low for 5 bucks including shipping) and from amazon for the XF with manufacturers rebates with the total for 4 H7 only being 28 bucks at $7.50 per bulb after rebates, the shipping was free on amazon due to the total qualifying for free shipping). I would never have paid the crazy high SS Ultra prices thats for sure. I have had the Ultras (9007) on the truck since 04, and the XF's 4 H7's since @ late Nov early Dec 2009. If I lose one H7 in the XF, I'll just swap a high (built-in spares). Just don't be fooled by any claim that says 100 watts of light for the same power input. If that was possible on incandescent bulbs, free power would be close behind. Its a power/current/resistance ratio dating back to ohm's law. That set of laws hasn't yet been modified.

 

Surely the wattage is determined by the resistance of the filament. (E x E) ÷ R = W
Long lasting filaments have a higher resistance and less light output.

I'm not too sure of what I say, maybe you can enlighten me.

What we need is Sparkie, he knows what wires will turn him into smoke.

 

Love this thread. I'm staying oem. I hate HIDS. My fellow officers don't need anymore help in identifying me. I can't tell you over the years how many wrong HID displays I harassed. Today no one seems to care. But I still do. Installed wrong they blind the **** out of you and don't care for he illumination they give.
I know I'm venting. But less is better in some things.

 

Just replaced, which took less than five minutes. Mine are more of a rounded shape than the ones I've seen pictured (more closely matching the OEMs) so I snapped a picture. On the left is the new assembly, on the right is an LED I've been using, but have had trouble with it seating properly, plus the lenses are smoky and cracked. Happy with the transition!

 

Well as you have mentioned your LED's here I figure it's fair game to call you on your ad selling the same item in the for sale section. You make no mention of trouble with them but want $10 for them shipped......Hmm!

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokey847

I've got a pair of LED no-error lights for the license plate. Used very shortly until I decided to replace the whole assembly because my lenses are cracked. These are high quality, plug and play, and will not cause the light-out indicator to burn. $10 shipped anywhere in the US. PM me. Thanks

Some of us were born at night, but not last night.

 

"Call me" all you'd like, but the problem is not with the bulbs, but rather with the original housing clips. Let me know if you're interested!