NEW LED guide for the cars - March 2015
I do not use the anti flicker units because my 6000k bulbs and XB35 ballasts don't produce any flicker whatsoever even in -20 degrees here in Chicago. Up to you on if you get them or not honestly.
Oh right the fogs and highs. Ok so the fogs are hb4 bulbs which TRS has in their Morimoto kits. I would say for best lighting in dry and wet conditions get 5500k in the low beams and fogs with 4500k. Trust me you'll want the yellower light right in front of the car when it rains heavily, as bluer light gets "washed out" by heavy rain. Or just go 4500k for both lows and fogs. For the high beams HIDs aren't recommended as they take a few seconds to reach full brightness, and you damage the bulbs by quickly flicking them on off when you flash people. Stick to halogens for high beams.
I kinda wanted to keep the same color with the lows and the fogs.. And wanted the 5500 with a little blue.. Are the fogs that bad at 5500 in the hard rain? Hb4 is the bulb style to buy for the fogs?
What wattage for fogs are recommended? 35?
What wattage for fogs are recommended? 35?
Yeah don't go 55watts because the cost of the housings for the headlights/fogs is way too high to burn them out.
If you really want, stick to 5500k for the lows, and go 4500k for the fogs. They will be basically the same color wise, as the bulbs will still have decent enough output for the fogs to help in the heavy rain.
If you really want, stick to 5500k for the lows, and go 4500k for the fogs. They will be basically the same color wise, as the bulbs will still have decent enough output for the fogs to help in the heavy rain.
Aren't the stock halogen low beams 55 watts? I don't understand how the hid light at 55 would burn the lamp if the stock halogens don't??.
So the HID plasma arc produces heat differently than the halogen bulbs, and tends to burn and put out heat in one direction instead of in a sphere pattern.
Going 55watt also shortens the lifespan of bulbs by quite a bit, while gaining you around 15% more INTENSITY, not brightness. Intensity means the light will look physically stronger on the ground, but the trade off isn't worth it just in my opinion. Plus I would rather not have to buy another 650 to 550 $ housing lol.
Going 55watt also shortens the lifespan of bulbs by quite a bit, while gaining you around 15% more INTENSITY, not brightness. Intensity means the light will look physically stronger on the ground, but the trade off isn't worth it just in my opinion. Plus I would rather not have to buy another 650 to 550 $ housing lol.
Would a 55 watt 6000 look like a 35watt 4500 color wise? Read somewhere that the higher wattage washer out the color?. Not sure what to make of it
Yeah at 55watts the 6000k is closer to 5500k, but not quite 4500k. Your call if you wanna go 55watts, I will stay with 35watts as the light output from the Morimoto HIDs even at 35watts is about 2.5 times greater than the halogens.
Yup indeed I will.. Sorry for sabotaging your led post lol
I also plan to change all the interior lights to led.. I see you have green inside.
I have the cedar slate interior with a pearls white aftermarket paint job. Not sure what color to go with interior lights.. I was thinking maybe blue.. Not sure what will go best with my interior color.. What do you think of your greens? Do you have any picks?
I also plan to change all the interior lights to led.. I see you have green inside.
I have the cedar slate interior with a pearls white aftermarket paint job. Not sure what color to go with interior lights.. I was thinking maybe blue.. Not sure what will go best with my interior color.. What do you think of your greens? Do you have any picks?
The interior LEDs are so easy to change out that you should buy multiple colors and experiment. I went green to be different and match the green LED's behind the center console buttons.
Possibilities are endless lol. How's the weather in Chicago these days? Do you drive your crossfire in winter or is it in storage at the moment like mine?


