~~~SOLD! Thanks for the interest! Way to represent SoCal guys!~~~



Had to smog the wifes SRT-6 yesterday so i had to take the intake off (Frickin retarded *** California). Planing to sell the SRT-6 real soon so I really have no desire to put the intake back on. It really only takes 10 minutes and a flat head screw driver.

Initially it was a polished chrome, I hate that bling look so i sand blasted it down then through some soft grey rattle can on it. I'll gladly re sand blast it but you gota make it worth my time.

Made 310 hp / 310 tq with ecu shutting down at 5700 RPM HP was climbing super strong so there is pleanty of power above the 310. I did a lower gear pull to redline and got 331hp. Sounds wicked loud at WoT but you already knew that...

If you are local in Orange County California By all means swing through to pick it up and I'll install it.

Also I cleaned the filters with K&N's cleaning kit about 600 miles ago.

I'll include all the coupling options so you can pick what you prefer.

 

all PM's answered.

 

so are both of the intakes sold now?......i know i should check here more offten.....does anyone else have one for sale or maybe the SL55 intake?

 

local sale pending...

shocked at all the local Crossfire guys. Got 6 PM's from Locals.

 

Its mine!

thanks James!

 

I bet the instant torque would feel great on a car w that intake. Yea colder air is better but that involves about 3+ feet more pipe, which will creat some resistance. I would like to see a side by side comparison. Id say better low end and mid range with this intake and the cold air intake taking it up top.

 

Why would you say that?
The car needs less air in those low and middle ranges. If the system provides sufficient air at the top end there will be no lack of air lower down.
Cold air is good for all ranges, period. Compressing air makes it hotter, compressing warm air makes it hotter and less dense than cool air that has been compressed. That extra heat ends up in the system creating further losses in efficiencies.

 

Air will be available instantly with the short ram. Air has to travel less distance to reach the throttlebody. in the midrange it should start to even out as the colder air will help more, but remember its taking more time and effort for the cold air to reach the engine as compared to the warmer air thats effortlessly ingested. when there is ALOT of air needed thats when the cold air should start performing better than the short ram. put it this way. try to breath in through a straw.... now cut it in half, and cut it in hlaf, again. The shorter the straw/intake becomes the easier it will be to breath.

 

We don't mention ram air on here or devils horns for that matter.
Air rushes in an attempt to balance pressure, always has and always will. The downward stroke of the piston would create a vacuum but for the valve opening and nature abhors a vacuum so the air rushes in.
The size of the pipe will affect the air drawn in, the faster the air is needed the more the pipe affects the air speed, particularly the boundary layer that is against the pipe walls.
The faster the air flows the thinner the boundary layer. The effect can be seen when you have rain drops on your hood, at slower speeds the drops just idly move toward the windshield as the speed increases you will see them move faster and faster as the boundary layer gets thinner.
You may have noticed bugs crawling around the windshield and wondered how they stayed there at such a speed, its because they are in the boundary layer.
If the pipe supplies enough air at full throttle less than full throttle will have plenty.
The biggest losses in air flow are at the filter as the air has to pass through thousands of small holes and each hole applies a loss. The smaller the hole the greater the loss - period. Larger filters with the same size holes are therefore better. So keep those filters clean.
Doubling the length of intake in this case would have little affect on the air supply and cooler air would more than offset any air losses due to the boundary layer.
If the outside temperature rose close to the under hood temperature then you may have a point, but by that time the engine would have overheated anyway.

 

cooler air? Have you gone out and felt the heat soak any intake including stock sees on this platform? I challange you to go do 3 WOT pulls, pull over and hold your hand directly on your CAI for more then 5 seconds...

I would argue the Inlet Air Temps / Charged Air Temps hardly vary outside a reasonably measureable amount between this intake, Rob's intakes or a stock intake. Thats not even discussing all these larger pully cars running the S/C at it's brink and really kicking up those charged temps.

Thats not to say I'm discrediting Rob's intakes, I like Rob and have supported him well before the crossfire community even came about. I will say though his Intake makes more power over stock through the removal of bottle necks, a smart free flowing design and use of high quality materials. I wouldn't attest any repeatable and measurable gains to reduced Charged Air Temps which is the question at hand. Rob's work is top notch, Welds are beautiful, materials are picked for quality not quantity and his service is bar none.

I saw no drops in power pull after pull with this intake which would provide worst case heat soak conditions sitting on a dyno without even a fan on the intake.

 

I have measured the temperature all over the stock engine cover (na) and I have found temperatures up to 160 deg F. which is due to long term heat soak.
Air passing through the system travels so fast it will not pick up too much heat as it does not stay in the system too long.
Air from in front of the radiator will be cooler than air picked up inside the engine bay as the majority of that air has passed through the rad fins which are designed to transfer heat to the air.
Your argument is that air exiting the short intake will be as cool as air exiting the longer intake situated in front of the rad.
I doubt that you can argue that the extra length of intake is as good a heat exchanger as the rad.
Your dyno pulls are a comparison of apples and apples and not apples and oranges.
The air exiting the rad is only a few degrees warmer than the air entering the front face of the rad but that air is also warmed by the engine to some degree.
My original argument was about the low and high end differences of the two systems and not about overall efficiency.
Physics says that the lower the initial temperature the better and I believe that the intake in front of the rad is the best. The actual power difference may be less than thought though.

 

Truthfully this thread really isnt worth the time it would take to properly lay down the proof. I'm not arguing anything in regards to the lengths of the pipe. I would argue the inside diameter of the pipe and Bernoulli's equation, but really I doub't it matters signafacantly.

Bottom line, the inlet air temp difference between any intakes at the throttle Body at max is maybe 15-20 degrees. Then next look at the temp across the S/C and the resulting heat transfer to the charged air there. This heat transfer is easily going to absorb a huge portion of the initial temperature difference. The resulting Air maybe is 5-10 degrees warmer. Then we move on to the next step, the air to water, now here is where almost all playing fields are leveled. Why? Because thats the intercoolers job! Any discrepency left by the dieviet in inlet air temp is going to be damn near zeroed out once it transfers the remaining latent heat to the intercooler. Now lets get to the bottom where the power really plays in. Timing. Have you looked at Charge Air vs. Timing modifiers for typical turbo/SC cars? Even in a hard core protective tune the difference of 4-5 degrees Charged air temp is going to be a swing of maybe 1/2 a degree timing And thats worst case.


It's pretty simple, in the end it's like saying my car performs like a Dog when it's 85 out but runs like a beast when it's 70 out with my Cold Air Intake. And thats simply not the case. A 15 degree delta in ambient temps is no difference in comparison to a 15 degree delta between a cold air intake and a short ram intake. Both will be properly absorbed.

Bottom line, if you are going to make the claim that a CAI is that much better for performance on this platform then a SRI you also must make the claim that the factory heat exchanger / intercooler (stock boost levels) is inefficient and can not do it's job.



Relating story... On the 900 HP 8 second car we Drag race we used to run a open turbo mounted transversly behind the engine by the firewall. No piping, no nothing, just open turbo. With an extremely efficient intercooler, even at 55 pounds of boost we still only see about 120 degrees charge air temps of the nitrous and about 90 degrees on the juicy. After we swaped the head around and hung the snail off the front of the motor with the turbo pulling air from directly in front of the bumper, guess what. No change in charge air temps outside a measurable amount. Why? Because between the super efficient heat exchanger and the Nitrous they do there job and absorb any changes in charge air temps. thats why they are there. Same as on a stock crossfire.

 

All of this technical talk, and the fact remains that a long tube is always better than a short ram. Don't believe me????? Just ask your girlfriend. LOL

 

Actually that research has been long done.