Upgrades / stock parts for sale
I'm looking for $400 for the kit.. Heres a basic breakdown of the install (TVT had a guide with pictures which I can't find.):
Mount bottle securely in trunk - I made a custom bottle mount that mounted to the metal under the foam in the hatch. Most people will not want to rip out their foam and drill holes for the mounting bolts. This is kind of up to you to figure out how to do it.
Drill holes for blowdown tube and feed line - I think TVT ran the line without drilling, but I had a certain way I wanted to run it.
Cut fuel line for solenoid feed - The fuel feed t's off of the rubber line leading to the fuel rails.
Wire up kit - You will need to be able to wire a relay, the TPS switch and the arming switch. An arming switch is needed on the interior, so you will need to run 3 wires inside the cabin (easy to pass through rubber grommet on firewall). You will need to power the relay (that powers the solenoids) from a battery junction box under the hood by the battery box, and a key on hot wire from another junction box under the fusebox. The TPS switch taps into the TPS lead coming from the ECM.
Mounting Solenoids - you need to find a spot to mount the solenoids behind the engine. I will send my bracket but it looks horrible lol.
Mounting nozzle - you will need to poke a hole in your intake elbow to mount the nozzle (1/16 NPT). I will supply a soft nozzle mount, which I used on a silicone elbow.
I may have skipped something, but thats pretty much it. If I recall correctly it took me 3 hours or so to install it.
Here are some pictures of the headlight:
Mount bottle securely in trunk - I made a custom bottle mount that mounted to the metal under the foam in the hatch. Most people will not want to rip out their foam and drill holes for the mounting bolts. This is kind of up to you to figure out how to do it.
Drill holes for blowdown tube and feed line - I think TVT ran the line without drilling, but I had a certain way I wanted to run it.
Cut fuel line for solenoid feed - The fuel feed t's off of the rubber line leading to the fuel rails.
Wire up kit - You will need to be able to wire a relay, the TPS switch and the arming switch. An arming switch is needed on the interior, so you will need to run 3 wires inside the cabin (easy to pass through rubber grommet on firewall). You will need to power the relay (that powers the solenoids) from a battery junction box under the hood by the battery box, and a key on hot wire from another junction box under the fusebox. The TPS switch taps into the TPS lead coming from the ECM.
Mounting Solenoids - you need to find a spot to mount the solenoids behind the engine. I will send my bracket but it looks horrible lol.
Mounting nozzle - you will need to poke a hole in your intake elbow to mount the nozzle (1/16 NPT). I will supply a soft nozzle mount, which I used on a silicone elbow.
I may have skipped something, but thats pretty much it. If I recall correctly it took me 3 hours or so to install it.
Here are some pictures of the headlight:
I assume it has the 50,75,100, 150 nozzels? Did you run them all? what kind of performance change did you see and/or feel? Which do you think would be best for a weekend car. I know it only works when you stick your foot in it, but just wondered how you felt the car ran. Do you think it is too hard on the NA3.2 to run on a regular basis?
Trying to decide if I want to invest another $400.
Trying to decide if I want to invest another $400.
I assume it has the 50,75,100, 150 nozzels? Did you run them all? what kind of performance change did you see and/or feel? Which do you think would be best for a weekend car. I know it only works when you stick your foot in it, but just wondered how you felt the car ran. Do you think it is too hard on the NA3.2 to run on a regular basis?
Trying to decide if I want to invest another $400.
Trying to decide if I want to invest another $400.
Still thinking about investing another $400.
Still would buy a set of" REAR Lettering", for $15 if anyone has a set. I know these would be used and adhesive would need to be replaced, plus shipping or $20 includes shipping.
Still would buy a set of" REAR Lettering", for $15 if anyone has a set. I know these would be used and adhesive would need to be replaced, plus shipping or $20 includes shipping.
I am just hosting these pictures of the camber arms/bolts , not related to this post.
Keep me mind if it still is forsale, would love to have it ( Nitrous). Have not had a job for 1 1/2 years, have to stretch my money. Very attractive, just have to make it work in my head!!
What is wrong with your lettering? I have a few letters laying around that I would send to you free of charge.. I'm just not sure what I have left or where they are at the moment lol.
Nothing is wrong with my lettering. I have had a couple fall off, but caught them and put new adhesive onthem. I just like to have spares if needed. Who knows someone else may need one And I could help them out if I had a spare.
Sorry, I only have what is listed in the 1st post. Try to get in contact with MrMopar on here, he might have one.
Gotcha.. I'll let you know if I find mine, they're yours if you want them
Gotcha.. I'll let you know if I find mine, they're yours if you want them
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