FOUND REPLACEMENT ON EBAY 7/2/2020...THANKS TO Ronman!!!

Here’s a pic and video of what I need:




Give me a call Or text me at 586-484-8489

Thank you!

Regards,

 

Micro switches are made to certain industry wide standard sizes, get your part number and look. For it of an equivalent.
I cannot hear what you saying on the video. I guess l am a bit deaf, but still.

 

Good point Dave. I did post this on Facebook Crossfire Tech-Parts and Rescue. Here's what I believe is the part #:

"Parts catalog that Robert McCubbin posted in Files shows on Page 419 of 444 this micro switch, Item 14, Part #
05142205AA, SWITCH,PowerTopOverCenter, located on the power top rail approximately in the middle (above micro switch)

This is located, passenger sitting in the car, above pass head. You’ll see this if you partially open the top up allowing the canvas to relax at the rail."

 

When I say part number I mean the number moulded on the switch. These parts were not made specifically for any car as they are an off the shelf item and are used for multiple industrial uses.
Buying it with the Chrysler number means it will cost ten times as much.

 

That Chrysler Part # is discontinued. In all my archive readings here I did stumble across a valid link for micro switches (just got to find it again) at a very reasonable price. The problem I have is my switch, which probably works, is missing that plastic tab that engages the metal arm which presses against that sensor tab completing the circuit. You can see what I am describing in the video link above

See MOPAR link here: https://www.moparpartswebstore.com/p...5142205AA.html

 

Here's a source for just the micro switch: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...%252B54g%3D%3D

What I need is the integrated micro switch having that plastic sliding piece with spring which activates/completes the circuit.

Looking for good used off a scrapped roadster.

 

1

 

Here’s a sharp closeup if that sliding plastic piece with spring. POM 01 is clearly stamped on it. Look familiar to anyone?

 

Further on this part. The back side of this part reads: A 193 820 21 10. Definitely a Mercedes part # as the Parts man, Keith at the St Clair Shores Mercedes dealership explained that all Mercedes parts start with an "A". His effort could not find the part though. He says because the SLK320 convertible was a hardtop not a soft top. 😒

A stop at 2 Chrysler dealer parts department disclosed, yup, its discontinued.

So my only source is someone here who might have that part or know of a yard nearby that has that part.

Here's a blowup of that part.



Here's a short video my good neighbor Rick took of his pristine, low mile '08 drop top. Again, I've got the switch portion but the sliding, spring loaded piece is broken, gone (which activates the micro sensor switch, telling the top it's closed or open).

Please give me a call/text at 586-484-8489. My email is: Jim.karam65@gmail.com

Thanks all!
Regards,

 

This part was not made specifically for the Crossfire or any other MB car. MB purchased parts in large quantities and they insisted that it carry their part number, i this case it carries the Crossfire series part number as it starts A193 xxx xx xx. It would not have been made to special sizes and there will be identical parts made the maker of this part and competitors.
Does it have the makers name on the other side?
The PA8 8.6 GF30 is the glass filled plastic resin that the body is made from, this is a legal requirement for recycling purposes.
What is actually broken?

 

Dave is right, that is a relatively common microswitch. I know it is frustrating, but SOMEWHERE there is a bin of those in a warehouse of an electronics supplier.

I MIGHT suggest that you are wasting time and effort needlessly here:
You can just bypass the switch, cut the wires going to the switch, strip them, splice them together and you are done! BUT, the problem is, if you hit the top switch's 'down' end with the top clamped to the windshield frame, the pump will start and if you do not QUICKLY let go of the switch, damage to the linkage can be done quickly.

One way around this is to replace the bad switch with a small toggle switch that you can flip 'closed' when you want to put the top down! That way, when you put the top back up, you simply flip the switch to the "open" position and the system is protected from you accidentally hitting the 'down' button.

Or, keep searching for the exact part.............................................. ......................

 

Thanks for the clarification Dave & Mark! The other side of the switch reads POM 01. The part that is broken and missing is the sliding portion which activates the sensor switch. When the top is closed that protruding, spring loaded piece slides up to engage the metal tab which in turn depresses the sensor switch (I guess...pizzaguy [Mark] can confirm) when this happens its communicating to the BCM to tell the TCM that the top is closed). Mark, if I've got this wrong please straighten me out.

Now, to further clarify this, my sensor switch portion does work. In other words , I can push on the metal tab and hear a definite click. BUT, there is no sliding mechanism to engage that sensor. It's gone on this car.

I'm wondering, because the top when locked down in the up position at the header is NOT getting a signal from my damaged switch that it is closed, that this is causing the top to be confused. There's no beep or red light on when it is closed.

I start the car, doors closed, windows up, release the top raising it 8" from the header, windows automatically go all the way down. Divider is in place and that sensor is engaged, no slop, it's snug. I press the top down button, I hear the pump running and the rear bow of the top disengages from its latch on the tonneau cover and then everything stops. Continuing to press the down button emits a beep and red light flashing.

The trunk is dry and there are no hydraulic leaks. The reservoir is full.

I've gone the route of manually completely lowering and raising the top 3 times, then I try to lower the top as above, no change.

Thanks Mark for your suggested work around.

YES, it is frustrating as the big appeal on these drop tops IS the push a button and watch the top do its magic.

I'm hoping for some possible leads on this replacement.

I'll keep you posted.

​​​​​​​Thanks and regards,

 

Would not a spring loaded NO toggle be a better choice? I'm not quite understanding this top operation yet. IF that switch is left in the 'closed' position what would happen? If it is a spring loaded NO toggle, would it matter the operator has to 'hold' the toggle 'ON' until the operation is complete OR does that switch operate in both opening AND closing? Is it only a limit switch, or a trip to 'start' the process? Help me understand its 'normal' operation (since I don't have total understanding of this particular switch in regards to both opening and closing, as designed). Inquiring minds like to know (curiosity).


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No. The switch in question is wired in series with the divider switch in the trunk. With the divider up and the top pushed away from the windshield frame, both switches are closed. THey are wired in series, directly to the TCM. This indicates to the TCM that is it safe to start the pump motor. When you pop the top away from the windsheild, the cam moves such that the switch RELAXES, allowing the button on the switch to pop out - this CLOSES the switch to provide closure to supply the ground to the pin on the TCM.

Your problem is NOT this switch. If this switch was bad, the pump would not run. Same rule goes for the divider switch in the trunk - both switches must CLOSE to provide a ground to tell the pump it's OK to run. This sounds like low fluid or a bad sensor on one of the cylinders.

 

It is VERY simple. That switch and the divider switch are wired in series. When the divider is up, it presses on the divider switch, which causes that switch to close.
When you pop the top away from the frame, as you get ready to lower it, the switch shown is allowed to relax and it closes. The two switches are wired in series, one end is grounded and one end goes to a pin on the top control module. With the divider up and the top popped away from the window frame, the two switches are closed, applying a ground to the pin on the TCM. This ground tells the TCM that it is safe to start the pump and start moving the top.

Once the top is all the way down, these two switches are IGNORED when it is time to raise the top.

 

Ahhh, I suspected that BUT know this system is completely foreign to me. It is sometimes expected to be simple but given engineers it could be mega complicated. A scenario? IF a regular 'snap' SPST NO switch was 'left' closed (as opposed to a spring returned NO toggle), would that 'cycle' the system after a closing of the top operation (negative result)? I would suspect reading your description, that IF that 'wired in' SPST switch was left closed, (ignored after full opening of top), then would the retract (top closed/fully up) start again upon closing of the top later on?


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huh ?
The PTCM ( power top control module ) checks the input from these two switches on a single line ( they are wired in series ) before starting the pump motor when the top is commanded down
It does not check if the top is commanded up.

 

I got it George. Thanks for clearing that up (the 'toggle' isn't part of commanding the 'down' operation, just OK's it with the two safety switches when commanded by the PTCM (and yes always knew they were in series). Just informational, my understanding of the 'verts'. Never owned one just trying to understand its complexity.


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Haven’t found a replacement for the sliding piece...yet. Still gonna’ look for it.

i cried “uncle” and sought out a European auto repair shop. My neighbor has had good experiences with Benz & Beemers in New Baltimore, Michigan. The owner Tom was very comfortable advising me he’ll be able to fix it. In the back of my mind I’m saying “they all would say that”.

Their mechanics had the latest scan tools (read this expensive) which allowed them to read all the sensors in the top circuit. True to form, they found the root cause quickly. Hats off to Tom and his crew!

Well, here’s the answer to my inoperative top. They found the sensor in the tonnaue cover latch assembly had a broken brass arm (who’d a thought) which resulted in the sensor being inoperative. It prevented the top from starting its cycle down as well as up. The shop verified the sensor on the top frame rail as well as the sensor at the divider we’re working properly, so left them alone. Once the top was raised the 8 inches and the divider was in place, the top cycle worked. The fact I have a missing piece on that switch turns out to be a non issue in the operation of the top.



May be hard to see but I’m pointing to the broken piece

​​​​​​Thank you all for reading my plight and advising/giving me insight on this top’s operation!

Regards,

 

wow
really great information that all of us with roadsters should keep in mind

Thanks for sharing