Waldig and autocross
Waldig, I saw in another post that you AutoX. With an srt6?
I've done it 6 times in the past 3 months with my srt6 and I'm attending an AX school on Sunday, I'm definatley hooked
Any advice on getting the most out of my car on the course? I'd like to remain stock.
Thanks
SB
I've done it 6 times in the past 3 months with my srt6 and I'm attending an AX school on Sunday, I'm definatley hooked
Thanks
SB
There are many posts in this forum that will give you a ton of details on what you need to do, but if you want to remain in the stock class you need:
1. Tires, tires, tires - here is the biggest bang for the buck. I've been running Michelin PS2's on my car and they are excellent. The new Dunlop Direzza's seem to be the new rave this year, and they are a lot cheaper than the PS2's or Bridgestone RE01R. The only problem with the Dunlop is that I don't think they have any options for the rear. And the Bridgestone you would have to go to 245/45R19.
2. Front Camber - buy the repair bolt kit to get more negative camber. I haven't installed the kit on my car yet, but will do it before my next event. It will improve the understeer and also allow for a more consistent wear on the front tires.
3. Cat-back Exhaust
4. K&N Air Filters
Again, there are much more experienced autocrossers in this forum that will be able to give you much more detailed advice. I'm on my second year with a base roadster and finally won two events this year with Indexed Fastest Time of the Day on the last one.
Good luck with your racing.
1. Tires, tires, tires - here is the biggest bang for the buck. I've been running Michelin PS2's on my car and they are excellent. The new Dunlop Direzza's seem to be the new rave this year, and they are a lot cheaper than the PS2's or Bridgestone RE01R. The only problem with the Dunlop is that I don't think they have any options for the rear. And the Bridgestone you would have to go to 245/45R19.
2. Front Camber - buy the repair bolt kit to get more negative camber. I haven't installed the kit on my car yet, but will do it before my next event. It will improve the understeer and also allow for a more consistent wear on the front tires.
3. Cat-back Exhaust
4. K&N Air Filters
Again, there are much more experienced autocrossers in this forum that will be able to give you much more detailed advice. I'm on my second year with a base roadster and finally won two events this year with Indexed Fastest Time of the Day on the last one.
Good luck with your racing.
mad026, wtg with your wins
And thanks for the rest of the input.
I know I need better tires, still learning/researching so thanks for that info. The neg camber I've read about but don't understand it, so I'll dig deeper into that but I've not heard of the repair bolt kit before. With the front tires I have, understeer is a major problem but it sounds like it can also be an issue with the car as well.
Can't afford a different exhaust yet but could remove the resonator. Will using K&N filters take me out of stock? I'll pull out the SCCA rule book and check.
And thanks for the rest of the input.
I know I need better tires, still learning/researching so thanks for that info. The neg camber I've read about but don't understand it, so I'll dig deeper into that but I've not heard of the repair bolt kit before. With the front tires I have, understeer is a major problem but it sounds like it can also be an issue with the car as well.
Can't afford a different exhaust yet but could remove the resonator. Will using K&N filters take me out of stock? I'll pull out the SCCA rule book and check.
Replacing your stock air filters with K&N aftermarket filters will not take you out of the stock class. There are more things that you can do to your car and still keep in the stock class, check the scca solo rules book at their website for more details.
Originally Posted by mad026
Replacing your stock air filters with K&N aftermarket filters will not take you out of the stock class. There are more things that you can do to your car and still keep in the stock class, check the scca solo rules book at their website for more details.
1. TIRES (Hoosiers if you really must)
2. SHOCKS (Koni would be my choice for not breaking the bank)
3. Good alignment with factory parts
4. Light wheels (have to be same size as stock and +/-.25" in offset)
5. Thicker FRONT anti-roll bar
6. Brake Pads (any that you want)
7. Harness of some kind to keep you from sliping around on your (leather) seats.
8. Exhaust (cat back only)
Things you can do that aren't very helpful, but can do if you want:
1. Plugs and wires
2. Any oil or lubrication
3. Any Comfort or Convienence modification (tint, stereo system, HID, LED Lights etc etc)
3. Any Thermostat
4. Any Coolant
5. Any Air Filter
Originally Posted by dyezak
2. SHOCKS (Koni would be my choice for not breaking the bank)
4. Light wheels (have to be same size as stock and +/-.25" in offset)
5. Thicker FRONT anti-roll bar
8. Exhaust (cat back only)
4. Light wheels (have to be same size as stock and +/-.25" in offset)
5. Thicker FRONT anti-roll bar
8. Exhaust (cat back only)
Revalved Koni's, 2 sets of light wheels/spacers/lugs (and one OEM set), the H&R front bar, and a ghetto (but light!) exhaust
huudoo,
I'm still alive... don't fret...
I don't autocross, but I recommened if you update your pads, make sure you upgrade your fluid to something like Motul 600. This will keep it from boiling. Probably not as big of an issue in Autocross, but it made a difference with the race pads on the road courses. A BIG difference.
DO NOT go with a thicker FRONT anti-roll bar. The front of this car is already WAY too stiff. Stiffen up the back end and you will see the understeer go away. So, instead of plowing into your turns you should turn very balanced into them.
One way to do this would be to increase your rear tire pressure. Yes, you heard right, increase your rear tire pressure slightly. You can also decrease your front tire pressure slightly as well.
Good luck!
I'm still alive... don't fret...
I don't autocross, but I recommened if you update your pads, make sure you upgrade your fluid to something like Motul 600. This will keep it from boiling. Probably not as big of an issue in Autocross, but it made a difference with the race pads on the road courses. A BIG difference.
DO NOT go with a thicker FRONT anti-roll bar. The front of this car is already WAY too stiff. Stiffen up the back end and you will see the understeer go away. So, instead of plowing into your turns you should turn very balanced into them.
One way to do this would be to increase your rear tire pressure. Yes, you heard right, increase your rear tire pressure slightly. You can also decrease your front tire pressure slightly as well.
Good luck!
Originally Posted by MMZ_TimeLord
DO NOT go with a thicker FRONT anti-roll bar. The front of this car is already WAY too stiff. Stiffen up the back end and you will see the understeer go away. So, instead of plowing into your turns you should turn very balanced into them.
One way to do this would be to increase your rear tire pressure. Yes, you heard right, increase your rear tire pressure slightly. You can also decrease your front tire pressure slightly as well.
One way to do this would be to increase your rear tire pressure. Yes, you heard right, increase your rear tire pressure slightly. You can also decrease your front tire pressure slightly as well.
Transitional response and steering feel are critical for autocross and the big front bar helps with both. It also helps eliminate wheelspin which is huge for an autocross car with an open diff (and probably not as big of a deal on track).
Upping rear pressure can definitely help. As can some rear toe-out. Or messing with front to rear widths (I'm currently on 285 fronts and 265 rears). Or shock settings if you get some adjustables. Unfortunately, for stock-class autocross, you can't mess with the rear bar.
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