How much time did it take you to dummy up that sheet saskins. You really are dumber than a box of rocks. The car makes approx 164hp @ the rear wheels. Taking off the tires doesn't make the difference either. People, listen, if you want to send your hard earned money to the saskins bs relief fund go right ahead, but be aware you're being taken to the cleaners. If you think you're going to get a 5% increase in HP or that you will "feel" a big difference you're mistaken. The "DYNO" sheet he has supposedly posted is bogus.This guy knows nothing but BS.

 

Good to hear from you again hobbydik. I love people like you who refuse to accept evidence in front of their eyes. You forgot to mention that the world is flat and the moon landing was staged, too

 

You are welcome to be as stupid as you like, fools lose their money every day because they want to believe. Believe whatever you like, Its obvious to me that you know nothing about cars,engines or making a pump more efficient. As I said before don't cry, send your money to saskins. I'm sure you two will live happily ever after.

PS Real dyno sheets list the type of dyno, the time, and plot the runs from 0 - 6000. In case you didn't notice, his dyno sheet shows him exceeding 6200rpm. The chip won't allow that, and he states he hasn't had it chipped. Just like with the FORD MOD motor, neither of you have a clue and name calling seems to be your only retort. Lame is what that is.

 

Well, I think you are the entire person in the entire world who believes what you do about the ford modular engine. I even referred to you the web site to back up my explanation, but as with the dyno sheet, you simply disregarded evidence which didn't fit in with your belief.

As for "real" dyno sheets, your theory is ridiculous. There is simply no standardized method for reporting diagnostic information. My hunch is that you received a sheet like that and, consistant with your personality, you assumed that your sheet is the "right" sheet. Consider - the Mazda RX-8 has a redline at 9,000 RPMs. Being a rotary engine, it is able to maintain a smooth torque-curve all the way to 9k rpms, with most of the power coming in that top range. So you're telling me that a "real" dyno would completely discount 1/3 of a car's torque curve - in the case of the RX-8, the 1/3 with the most power? If that was the case, it would be impossible to dyno the RX-8, or any other car with a red line above 6k, correct? I understand you feel that I'm a complete moron, so perhaps you could show me what part of my logic is flawed? Of course, you won't be able to do that, because I'm right . And, unlike you, I actually go to facts and resources to back up my claims, so for your convenience I have attached three different dyno sheets for your (and those with more credibility) perusal (normally I would just post links, but you were too lazy or scared to follow the link to the ford webs site, so maybe shoving the evidence in your face will work). Notice that not one of these dynos goes only up to 6,000 RPM. Some go above, and some go below. In fact, if you type dyno into google you can view several companies which make diagnostic tools. Everyone which I visited said that you could specify an RPM range.

I'm going to invent a new catch-phrase for the act of dis-prooving someone's idiotic claims wrong when backed up by overwhemling, irrefutable evidence:
You've been hobbydiked!

 

I like that " You've been Hobbydiked" Thats F***'en Funny. Hey Hobbydik! you never replied to my joke, so I'll say it again....Nock..Nock.....

 

pssst....you forgot the k! it's 'knock knock...'

 

Oh my bad, You know its hard to be a smart as when you misspell something...Well then....never mind, its now lost its luster.

 

Well that settles it, between you and saskins you win. You are obviously dumber than he is. I was referencing OUR car you dumbass. It starts dropping ignition at 6200 RPM NOT THE DYNO. Dyno will measure to 20,000 RPM (formula 1 engines turn 18-20k). His chart is bullshit because our cars only produce 215HP @the crank. Saskins graph shows his making 215 stock @the rear axles. Not going to happen. As for the mod motor you can cling to whatever belief system you want, but that engine was and is, ALWAYS designed as a V8 not 2 cyclinder units bonded together to make V4's V6's V10's etc. If you think thats how 4 stroke engines are made, there is no hope for you. The only configuration changes are made by changing bore and stroke and different heads. The heads are referred to as 2S, 3S, and 4S meaning 2 valve 3 valve and 4 valve. These are overhead valve engines which allows this technology to work. Anything else you Think is just flat wrong. I think this is just what some of the guys like you do, you' re too lazy to actually read and learn so you take one or two facts and expound on them to make yourself sound like you know what you're talking about. When you get called on it, you resort to good old name calling. I told you before, I don't care what you call me, It doesn't make you any smarter, you just wind up looking like the fool you are. If you think you and saskins are right, send him money and get you're just desserts. I'll be laughing the whole time.

 

Not that I'm trying to defend the Hobbyman but this read-out does look suspect;

I can't believe Saskins had that motor reving over 6700 rpm without any other modifications. If this is suppose to be h.p. at the rear wheels, then obviously the 215-225 h.p. readings are completely wrong.

This dyno read-out is unlike any that I have seen, in fact it looks almost like a hand-draw the lines between the dots graph; that was my first impression when I saw it.

What is Connected or Corrected H.P. caption down the left side of graph?

 

Ahhh yes, talk about how I drop back to name calling after saying I am "obviously dumber than he is". How noble of you.

I obviously read your post wrong; I should have understood you were referring to our car in particular; my apologies. And your point is a good one: saskins, without being chipped how did you get your car over 6000 RPMS, since that is the rev limiter's cutoff point?

 

It started shifting over 6K, or Red line after the new intakes were put on. Another note is, it stays in the higher RPMS a lot longer. What I mean by this is, it will not just rev its self out, just to get into a higher gear. It will stay in the lower gear gaining more speed. I don't know if I'm explaining the cars response correctly. Ok, your shifting points get stretched out, Ex: From 1st...2nd...3rd..4th, we'll say that is stock. Now the way the shifting points would look like this: 1st...2nd...3rd...4th...5th. I know this is a lame way of trying to show you, what the car feels like.
Also, I'm tired of having to explain myself here. I you all either get what an air intake system does, or you don't. If you don't know what it does I'm sorry. Maybe you can ask someone who has ever had one about how it works. For anyone who does know what it does, The Intake I designed is a Dual Cold Air intake for the Crossfire, and the SLK Mercedes. Thats it, I'm done. Take it or leave it. this is silly going back and forth.

 

Wait a minute Saskins; you made a lot of statements and pronouncements related to the performance gains that your intake system has made and I think that if you want to mass produce and sell this unit, you need to support your facts by answering some reasonable questions.

You are saying that with this air intake that your engine is over-riding any factory electronic limiter and now revving to 6700 or more r.p.m. Ok, we can accept that at face value.

Secondly, you profess to have a cold air intake when in fact any pictures that I have seen, you are still drawing in engine compartment air; it seems to me that this is less 'cold' air than the stock set-up; I'm not saying less efficient than the stock set-up but less of a 'cold' air induction system.

Thirdly, you have not answered the question about the rear wheel horsepower your dyno numbers show; are they really in the range of 215-225? What is "connected" or "corrected" h.p. captioned on the dyno sheet?

I'm not trying to embarrass you or insult you by these questions as I'm honestly interested in an alternate intake for my Xfire because as you have seen by my previous posts and pics I do believe improvements can be made both at the front end and back end of the engines breathing system.

 

Mbepic:

Out of curiosity, is your full dual exhaust a custom set-up that you had welded and cut? Do you have any idea how it compares to the Borla exhaust (which I'm considering purchasing)?

 

I think I have been more then far with answering questions. The Hp range I would say form stock, to after market intakes. Would be any were in the range from 215- to 230+. I don't think you can get much more then 230 with just the Intake. I think even 230 is difficult to reach. The Corrected HP caption on the Dyno I think means the showing the stock run and the gains form the modified run. I will call and ask if that is infact what that means.
AS far as drawing in the Engine air, I have heat shields that reflect, and protect the filters. The passenger sides heat shield actually acts as a scoop as well. It shaped around and underneath, leaving the only exposed part of the filter in front of the air inlet port. The filter on the driver side actually isn't near the engine like the opposite side. Its tucked away near the driver side headlight. It too has a heat shield. I have modified the front end of the car eliminating any and all worthless pieces, that would disturb the air flow. I also have taken into consideration peoples requests about having the air filters lower, or underneath the car. I have been developing a couple different ways of achieving that request. There is some definite potential possibilities with that application.
I'm also currently working on adapting my system with a Vortech Supercharger setup. Its a long way away from being seen on your own cars unfortunately.

 

I've seen the Borla, and I'm not to impressed, I would definitely go with a real dual exhaust system. The only issue that may come into play is back pressure. I think that can be easily managed by being kind of picky with the mufflers that are chosen.

 

I invite you over to the crossfirecommunity.net forum to see the post and pics that are there.

 

Invite Who?

 

oh yeah, corrected should mean a 15% multiplier was added to the rwhp, as 15% is the assumed drivetrain lose on a rwd car, but i would like clarity also. we should be about 175whp stock to the rear wheels.

 

Come on saskins you've been caught out. Just fess up and get it over with. Even you don't believe this drivel. Without changing the chip, you cannot rev the engine past 6200. You can change everything in the engine (pistons, crank, rods, valves, cam etc) and if you don't rechip, you're stuck with 6200 RPM PERIOD. If you don't know that, then you really know nothing about engines or our cars at all. Everytime you continue trying to support your line of BS, you dig that hole deeper.

PS saskins you're in a twenty five foot hole with a five foot ladder!!!

PS PS the only thing silly is YOU!

 

gotta go with hobbymanbill on this one.