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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and DifferentialPost questions here that have to do with the engine, cooling system, air intake, exhaust, Transmission and Differential
Well, you are supposed to use the "flywheel locking tool", but most have made a DIY tool that has two heavy bolts that fit into the open areas of the dampner and are in a long steel bar.
From the service manual :
Not sure the clutch will hold for that extra 90 degrees of torque. ( 150 ft/lbs + an extra 90 degrees is a lot of torque )
Either the special tool, or like I said, some have fabricated a bar that bolts to the harmonic dampener
through the open spaces to a backing plate.
Not sure the clutch will hold for that extra 90 degrees of torque. ( 150 ft/lbs + an extra 90 degrees is a lot of torque )
Either the special tool, or like I said, some have fabricated a bar that bolts to the harmonic dampener
through the open spaces to a backing plate.
Someone said an impact wrench worked well, not sure I would try but ...."
Well I have turn-torqued bolts by hand for 30 years because that is what I was taught. Then right before I retire, a Cummins factory mechanic comes on the property for a warranty issue. He turn-torques everything with an impact wrench. I questioned him about it and he says that is acceptable at the Cummins dealership. Go figure.
Well I have turn-torqued bolts by hand for 30 years because that is what I was taught. Then right before I retire, a Cummins factory mechanic comes on the property for a warranty issue. He turn-torques everything with an impact wrench. I questioned him about it and he says that is acceptable at the Cummins dealership. Go figure.
I was mentioning it only as a method to remove the bolt only.
Way back when I had Merkur XR4Ti's, the timing belt had to be replaced every 60k miles or 5 years, whichever came first. And this wasn't something that could be avoided - don't ask how I know!
Anyway, to get the timing belt installed, one had to remove the accessory belt drive pulley that was mounted out front on the crank. Naturally, this bolt was tightened to that 150 ft-lb torque range. But it could be removed with relative ease by using a strap wrench on the accessory drive pulley to hold the crank while using a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the bolt. Since the pulley was keyed to the crank shaft, nothing moved when you performed this maintenance. Of course, aligning the crank to the camshaft had to be correctly done during install of the new timing belt. And the strap wrench was used to re-install the accessory drive pulley & apply the correct torque to the pulley bolt. But all in all, I got to where this was almost routine to perform.
I still have several strap wrenches in my toolbox for just such a need on anything else I drive. Strap wrench just might work for this application.
Last edited by dedwards0323; Feb 21, 2017 at 08:50 AM.
Way back when I had Merkur XR4Ti's, the timing belt had to be replaced every 60k miles or 5 years, whichever came first. And this wasn't something that could be avoided - don't ask how I know!
Anyway, to get the timing belt installed, one had to remove the accessory belt drive pulley that was mounted out front on the crank. Naturally, this bolt was tightened to that 150 ft-lb torque range. But it could be removed with relative ease by using a strap wrench on the accessory drive pulley to hold the crank while using a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the bolt. Since the pulley was keyed to the crank shaft, nothing moved when you performed this maintenance. Of course, aligning the crank to the camshaft had to be correctly done during install of the new timing belt. And the strap wrench was used to re-install the accessory drive pulley & apply the correct torque to the pulley bolt. But all in all, I got to where this was almost routine to perform.
I still have several strap wrenches in my toolbox for just such a need on anything else I drive. Strap wrench just might work for this application.
Do you think a person using a strap wrench could exert more pressure than someone using a breaker bar?
My breaker bar is 24" long and someone using a 12" strap wrench would have to exert more than twice the force on it.
Anyway the screw must be replaced with a new one, the last thing you want is the old one being used and breaking.
Do you think a person using a strap wrench could exert more pressure than someone using a breaker bar?
My breaker bar is 24" long and someone using a 12" strap wrench would have to exert more than twice the force on it.
Anyway the screw must be replaced with a new one, the last thing you want is the old one being used and breaking.
I do have a 12" strap wrench in my tool box, but that is for small jobs that don't require much holding power. One needs a heavy-duty strap wrench (see attached) to hold a pulley to loosen a bolt torqued to 150 ft-lbs. If I can get that strap wrench on & secured, the crank holding bolt comes loose. I know there may be doubters about this, but I've done this multiple times in similar applications and know it works.
And I agree that the holding bolt needs to be replaced if this service is performed. Not worth the risk to have to do this again due to a bolt failure caused by fatigue from previous pre-load.
Last edited by dedwards0323; Feb 21, 2017 at 09:42 AM.
I do have a 12" strap wrench in my tool box, but that is for small jobs that don't require much holding power. One needs a heavy-duty strap wrench (see attached) to hold a pulley to loosen a bolt torqued to 150 ft-lbs. If I can get that strap wrench on & secured, the crank holding bolt comes loose. I know there may be doubters about this, but I've done this multiple times in similar applications and know it works.
And I agree that the holding bolt needs to be replaced if this service is performed. Not worth the risk to have to do this again due to a bolt failure caused by fatigue from previous pre-load.
So what are you going to grip? These rely on friction to work and the engine pulley has grooves in it, that reduces the surface area and the friction.
Call me a big doubter.
So what are you going to grip? These rely on friction to work and the engine pulley has grooves in it, that reduces the surface area and the friction.
Call me a big doubter.
The large strap wrench I use has a strap that is nearly 2" wide (actually more akin to a belt). It will grip (surface texture of strap) across the pulley grooves and once secured, will hold the pulley from turning. It does this because it has some stiffness to it and won't deflect into the pulley grooves. On previous applications, I could wedge the strap wrench handle against the floor to hold it in place. The handle is nearly 2 foot long. That holds the crank and I could loosen the bolt using both hands on the breaker bar. Like I said earlier, I understand that there our doubters out there. But that fact alone doesn't mean it can't be done. Been There; Done That! And for those that say emphatically that it can't be done, they probably don't have the experience to back up that position. It is only their opinion. Enough said about this!
Last edited by dedwards0323; Feb 23, 2017 at 06:35 AM.
Finaly I change pulley shaft.
I must bought special tool becouse my homemade tool was not the best.
Without this tool swap is not possible or very difficult.
Re: Pulley shaft ?
