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Ok, finally had some time to take out the RCM and take a look at it. Please see the attached pictures. I don't see anything that looks pitted or fried but I'll leave that up to you kind folks on the forum to see if I missed anything.. As always thanks for your assistance as it is greatly appreciated.
Since you have it out, re-solder these connections. Look at them with a high magnification, I bet they will look like a crack around the post. Middle one does in the picture.
Ok, finally had some time to take out the RCM and take a look at it. Please see the attached pictures. I don't see anything that looks pitted or fried but I'll leave that up to you kind folks on the forum to see if I missed anything.. As always thanks for your assistance as it is greatly appreciated.
Now you have it out, connect up all the plugs to it and with it sitting on a sheet of cardboard or something similar to insulate the circuits, press the horn. You should see the solenoid on the left in your picture close and the horn should blow, it will not but at least you know the solenoid is working.
If the solenoid contact moves you know the problem lies in the power to the horns, if it does not move the problem lies in the power to the solenoid circuit. Make sure the contacts are clean.
At least in Orlando the worst are expert drivers from UK, OZ, and Japan in rental cars. All of their reactions are rong.
Second worst are those that zip past the traffic waiting in an exit lane and suddently decide they deserve a spot. Last night of four lanes including the exit lane I was in on the far right, someone excersised their darwinian rights and had all but the leftmost lane blocked.
It is unsafe to leave a car's length behind the guy in front because two cars will try to get in it.
Ok, this is bothering the heck out of me. I changed the horns and it worked for like a day or two then silence again. Do you think it is time to but a new PCM?
Thanks for the reply. Ok so the RCM is the one in the engine bay close to the battery right, said PCM but meant RCM. Since some of the pins were re-soldered I think this is the next step in this evolution (replace with new RCM) since I know that the clock-spring is rather expensive.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
take the top off the box by the battery, pull the RCM module up and out, do not disconnect the wiring..
( It's the one with all the fuses closest to the engine. )
Remove the black plastic cover from the RCM ( small screwdriver, lots of prying )
Lay it on cardboard or some shop towels on top of the other modules.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition switch to on/run.
With a wood dowel or the like, manually close the contacts on the horn relay by pressing the movable armature,
if the horns blow then you probably have a clockspring issue, if not, then check the #1 15 amp horn fuse.
If that fuse is OK, try using a small screwdriver and shorting across the horn relay contacts.
Of course, it could always be a bad horn relay, remove the RCM and send it to tighed1.
RCM relays
Last edited by ala_xfire; May 15, 2017 at 04:07 PM.